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Mbasaraba
07-09-2012, 07:56 AM
On Saturday morning I packed the wife and 2 boys and headed for Kentucky. Mike (Wideload) and I have been working out the details on his '66 Sportvan for a couple months all hinging on the sale of the 2005 Scion Xb that the wife and I were trying to get rid of. It went pretty fast once I got it cleaned up and on the market and so I sent Mike a PM telling him I would take the van.

We got to Mike and Cindy's about 11:30am and got to work drove it up on the dolly, swapping the rear tires with a set of 14" I had (taken off my 64 panel), and got the driveshaft off.

Tammy was super excited once she saw it and has been talking about nothing else. When we first started looking for a van she really wanted a window van for her daily driver but they were far and few and expensive if we could find anything. When Mike had his 2nd Gen up for sale I stopped on my way to North Dakota and jokingly said, the wife would love the Sportvan! He told me he would let it go and I sent Tammy a message as soon as we left.

Mike did a LOT of clean up on this van. He had a thread on taking all that carpet and glue out and he sure did one hell of a nice job!

The floor up front will need to be replaced but no big deal, I got a half sheet of 14 gauge at home and we are going to start that as soon as I can get the 64 off the lift and pushed out of the garage.

So here are the plans...

1. Replace floor and tunnel in the front.
2. Put in floor shifter for the auto. Right now this thing is super dangerous. Just starting it will cause it to jump in reverse. The shifter is actually backwards, where park is down instead of the up position.
3. Install A/C and tint windows
4. POR15 the interior.
5. Sound proof and insulate Doghouse and floor.
6. Get all the original moldings sanded and repainted a lighter brown.
7. New wood flooring, headliner and vinyl side panels.
8. Get seats recovered.

This should keep us rather busy. Motor runs awesome. Last will be exterior paint but Tammy has already decided on a "Hot Chocolate" and light brown two tone. We will try to match the colors inside as best we can. I am going to stop on way home at a guy that does seat refurbishment in his garage and does awesome work.


She has named her van Coco 66...

Mike had 2 Fiero seats for the front, the original bench seat which is in AWESOME condition, and we have 2 nice captains seats from our donor. I really wish I could find that checkered material like on the original bench seat since these are really close to the color scheme that Tammy wants.

Here is a picture of the van how it sat in Mike's garage.

4176

Floorman
07-09-2012, 08:21 AM
Congratulations on the new edition. Sounds like you have a very good plan to make her safe and beautiful like these vans deserve to be.

gregw98
07-09-2012, 08:36 AM
Feels so good, doesn't it? Looks great.

Mbasaraba
07-09-2012, 08:50 AM
Feels so good, doesn't it? Looks great.

Having it feels great!

What didnt feel great was the blower motor on my Father-In-Laws Dodge truck went out on our way up there. Was barely blowing anything. We had the windows down to dry the sweat off but it was 105 degrees outside, was like a blast furnace.

Kustomizer
07-09-2012, 03:18 PM
Very cool looking van!

ron bonomo
07-09-2012, 04:32 PM
thats a sweety,,love the two tone yellow

Space Truckin
07-09-2012, 05:24 PM
thats a sweety,,love the two tone yellow
Agreed , love a two tone done right . Very nice VAN !! Congats

lvjjj
07-09-2012, 06:12 PM
nice one! Two tone looks almost stock.

The angle the picture is taken makes it look like a 108.

Mbasaraba
07-09-2012, 08:10 PM
yeah it makes it look long, she is a 90 though. It is going to end up being 2 tone brown however. Even though we like the yellow, my wife is a achool teacher and thought it would look too much like av"short bus".

LOL.

i got the rear end put back in the 64 panel and tomorrow i will get the front end back on so we can roll it out and pull in the 66.

66BeachCruiser
07-09-2012, 09:42 PM
Yea! We have another one to congradulate. Congradulations! Can't wait to see where and how you take this one. Sounds like you already have plans. Keep us posted. You have one lucky wife.

gregw98
07-10-2012, 08:15 AM
....... it was 105 degrees outside, was like a blast furnace.

Who in their right mind would buy a vehicle in the middle of July, down South, without A/C, power steering, power brakes or any creature features at all. And to top that off, we sit just inches away from a fire-breathing engine

WE WOULD!!!!!

Mbasaraba
07-10-2012, 08:23 AM
Who in their right mind would buy a vehicle in the middle of July, down South, without A/C, power steering, power brakes or any creature features at all. And to top that off, we sit just inches away from a fire-breathing engine

WE WOULD!!!!!

I agree. There would be much worse ways to die! LoL.

I got a quick question for those who have a floor mount automatic shifter. The linkage on this thing is backwards. They used the 3 speed column lever hooked to a cable. Park is down all the way and have to shift up and it is dangerous as hell! Lol. My question is, if I get a floor shifter will it still shift backwards? Seems direction when pulling the lever would still be the same action. Will I need to put in some sort of counter lever so that it push/pulls opposite or is this dependent on what kind of shifter I buy? If that is the case, then what do I look for when buying the shifter?

Floorman
07-10-2012, 08:45 AM
I would think there is a way to take the shifter you have and cable and just hook it up differently.
You could look here too. http://www.vcvc.org/showthread.php/18242-Shifter-question?highlight=lokar+shifter

gregw98
07-10-2012, 04:27 PM
http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/shifters/shifter-product-pgs/cable-op-shifter.html

Lokar shifter #ATS6350A

Comes with a 23" shifter handle.

4187

Mbasaraba
07-10-2012, 08:02 PM
http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/shifters/shifter-product-pgs/cable-op-shifter.html

Lokar shifter #ATS6350A

Comes with a 23" shifter handle.

4187

now that os a kewl shifter. she likes that one alot!

zwett
07-10-2012, 11:07 PM
if your looking for some interior material check out " Original Auto Interiors Inc."

Mbasaraba
07-11-2012, 08:19 PM
Been raining for 4 days has made it impossible to get the 64 out of the shop and the 66 in. Seriously depressing!

Mbasaraba
07-15-2012, 07:39 AM
I got the wheels swapped between the vans yesterday finally. We hooked up the 3rd gen Chevy to the 64 in the shop and pulled it out. Since there are no bearings in the rear end it wasnt that easy to pull but considering there are also no brakes in it, I guess it was a blessing. We towed it out and up the hill a bit, I need to get a very good tarp on it to keep the rain off of it.

I pulled the Nissan 300ZX that I bought to resell into the garage to change the headlight and one of the injectors that went out. The injector replacement went smooth and the car runs perfect. The headlight was a different story. Looks like I bought the wrong one! It showed on Ebay that it was an exact replacement for mine but it clearly isnt so now I have to pay for shipping back and then find another one to buy.

I will get the ZX put back together without the headlight today and get the 66 pulled into the shop.

Mike had told me the starter was making noises. We didnt get to hear it making these noises when we were at his place, it turned over perfectly. When I went to start it yesterday I about jumped out of the seat when it started grinding. Luckily there was a new starter on the motor that came out of the 64. I pulled it off and installed it in the 66 and VROOM! From looking at the motor in the 66 it looks like it needs a valve cover gasket and maybe a rear seal.

Mike was nice enough to include the set of Fiero seats with the van so I am going to look at getting them mounted so I can take them to the guy I found to recover the seats. While that is getting done we will work on replacing the front floor boards. We will be redoing the tunnel also but we need to get a shifter before we get to that point and I really cant work on the tunnel until I know how far the A/C unit is going to come down in the front.

I really need to get that 300 ZX finished and sold since that is the money that is meant to fix the van. Hopefully I will make $1000-1500 profit on it and that will go towards the A/C install.

Mbasaraba
07-15-2012, 06:46 PM
We got the 66 pulled into the shop. First I wanted to post a picture of another seat option. This seat is from my 1980 Fiat Spider. The seat is nasty dirty from being in storage but it fit perfect on both sides. These cars are not super hard to find and since the seats have been the same from 1968-1986 there should be LOTS of them out there.


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/fiatse10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=237&u=16994546)


We got a set of Fiero seats with the van. Thanks Mike!


We got the drivers side in, found out where it was comfy for Tammy to sit and I fabbed up and welded a mount for the dog house side bracket. Tammy decided to try it out once I had it in. Lookin good baby!!!


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/seatin10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=238&u=16994546)


I will get the other side done this week.


I plan on stopping at the paint distributor to get paint chip samples for her repaint. After she picks exact colors we will take those chips to find some matching vinyl. I need to order some Por15 to get the inside covered so I can get some sound deadener in.

gregw98
07-15-2012, 11:00 PM
Looking good. The van looks good too. I like those Fiat seats. I am with you, on thinning the herd. I sold my 1972 Chevelle wagon today and am waiting on the title for my '69 Subaru 360 that is next in line to go out the door. After that, I'll decide what goes next. Anyway, you look like your staying busy.

Mbasaraba
07-21-2012, 02:28 PM
We worked on getting our Fiat seats finalized in the van today.


I already had the drivers side brace made but needed to get it mounted and painted just so it wont rust any till we get the carpet in the front and I will make a panel that covers the opening. Here is the drivers brace installed and painted.


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/driver11.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=239&u=16994546)


Moving on to passenger side, the floor was a bit rusty right up against the wheel well so I cut that piece out with the plasma. I will get this sanded off and get the new piece I cut installed. I found it was a bit rusty about half and inch up the wheel well so I cut 2 inches out that I will patch and paint also. Here is the rough cut out.


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/floorc10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=240&u=16994546)


The passenger mounting brace I wanted to do a bit differently since I am thinking of putting something under the seat and I wanted a bit of clearance. I welded a piece of tubing to the doghouse over to the wheel well then braced it with a piece of 3/16" thick flat bar.


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/passen11.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=241&u=16994546)


For the back brace I used a piece of 3/16 flat bar for one side and welded it to the factory flat piece on the doghouse. Got it all welded, drilled our holes and painted it.


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/passen12.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=242&u=16994546)


Now that we have the bracing in and the seats fit good I will get the floor and wheel well patched in and sealed then look at getting sound proofing and carpet.

Mbasaraba
07-21-2012, 08:19 PM
Got the floor board and the fender replaced. It is a bit rough, I needed to add some filler to the sides since it was a bit out of shape. I used TIG rods and the MIG welder to add material to the original metal and get it up to the level of the new panel. I will use my 7.5 inch grinder to smooth it out before it gets painted again.


I just wanted it covered, it is REALLY humid here from all the rain and I didnt want it to start rusting on the new welds.


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/floorf10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=243&u=16994546)


This week the wife and I went to the shop where we will be getting our paint and she was able to pick out her colors.


First off the van is going to be called "Coco 66" on the plates. She has really wanted a Hot Chocolate colored van. This was the shade of brown she picked and it looks SWEET!.


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/brownc10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=244&u=16994546)


The secondary color was a bit tougher. She wanted to get a lighter brown but it was REALLY limited for something like that, that would match her main color. Most were bronze or cream/tan. I thought she should get a little more adventurous. So to go with the Root Beer brown this is the chip she picked. I think it is going to look AWESOME!


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/orange11.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=246&u=16994546)


Mike had all the interior plastic panels, they will be painted the same orange and then we got some matching brown vinyl that will have foam backed and sewn in diamond shapes for the finishing panels and roofing.

Mbasaraba
07-22-2012, 10:50 AM
I am sure we have ALL seen vans suffering from the missing stop on the front doors dent... UGH! The 66 is no different...


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/dent10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=247&u=16994546)


Drivers side was gone from the door to the body, the only piece was the piece welded to the body. Passenger side had it all complete but the brace in the body had the welds broken. I decided I wanted to replace the whole setup.


Here is the kit I made. I will do a feeler to see if any one would be interested in buying these sets.


2 Body brackets
1 rod
1 door plate
1 stop plate
1 rubber bailer belt cushion


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/kit15.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=248&u=16994546)


Rod Assembled


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/rod10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=249&u=16994546)


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/rod210.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=250&u=16994546)


Drivers door that still had the bracket on the body...


Door Mounting Plate


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/door-m10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=251&u=16994546)


Drivers side looking down from the top


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/rod-in10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=252&u=16994546)




Passenger side body mounts


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/bodymo10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=253&u=16994546)


Complete mounted to body (Passengers door is off so I didnt have picture of it in the door.)


http://i49.servimg.com/u/f49/16/99/45/46/comple10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=254&u=16994546)


All done! No more nose dents!!!

Mbasaraba
09-13-2012, 10:33 AM
Well I am still waiting on my parts to get here. Shows the Distributor and Carb are supposed to be here Friday and the 2bbl adapter I got today.

I bought a gallon of POR15 to get the interior started. I bought 4 wire wheels for my grinder and drill and as soon as I get the new suspension put in the Fiat I will be pulling the van into the shop to get the front portion of the interior going.

I am heading to Harbor Freight at lunch today to buy a Soda Blaster. I plan on using this for small parts only. I have a lot of stuff on my Fiat I want blasted and I have found a few for the van as well.

I need some advice on the seats. Mike had a set of Fiero seats with the van. I got all the mounting in stalled and they fit great. I took them to a guy I had met that redoes seats. He told me for the 2 seats $250 a piece. Is this a typical price? Seemed a bit high but wanted to ask what others have paid to get a pair of buckets recovered.

Mbasaraba
09-14-2012, 12:54 PM
Ok the carburetor came and the adapter so I can at least get that started this weekend!

I ran and got my soda blaster today, yesterday there was just too much going on and I couldnt get over to Harbor Freight. Going to give it a test run on the springs for my Fiat and see how it does. Figured if Vanner68 was in the area he could come over, drink a couple of beers and laugh at me screwing stuff up. LoL. Will see if he replies on other thread.

Found a couple of options for my Fiero seats. That guy wanting to charge $250 a piece seemed way over priced so I did some searching on Ebay.

Found vinyl sets for $200 for a set. I can get these in a black and brown/beige color combo so this seems like it would look real nice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300506178232?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

and leather for $350 a set.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221122543129?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Mbasaraba
10-08-2012, 07:58 PM
Been awhile since and Update so will post a quick one...

I got my POR 15 covering the front section of the van and the dog house. I found a few more rough spots that are going to be tough.

1. the passenger side wing window swivel on the bottom is rusted and broken.
2. the door latch on the drivers side is stress cracked in about 3 spots. (not sure how to fix this one without replacing the dang door.)

I removed all the pop out windows (4 total) and a couple of them are pretty rough. I wire brushed them all off and POR 15'd them. I am thinking of getting some JB Weld and filling in the rusted out areas and then re-painting them again.

I got all the parts for my front disc conversion except the steel lines and rubber hoses. Calipers, rotors, duel master, bearings, brackets. Still need to get those.

I am still trying to find gasket to go on the body that seals the flip outs but havent found anything that I can use yet. I have searched eBay and Steelrubber.com but not seeing anything that wont cost me like $400 to redo it with. Someone told me to use Voyager/Caravan sliding door glass weather stripping and when I run to Advanced tomorrow to get the seals they needed to order for the bearings I will ask them about weather stripping.

I am going to have to redo the passenger side seat bracket. I mounted it about 1/2 inch crooked and it runs at angle towards the body which will never do with the plastic that will need to be installed plus the shoulder seat belts.

Hopefully I can get at least the brakes wrapped up this weekend then work on the seat brackets again.

Rodneyachance
10-08-2012, 08:14 PM
Have you used the soda blaster yet and if so where, the interior? Thanks!

Mbasaraba
10-08-2012, 08:50 PM
I used it on a lot of the suspension parts on my Fiat when I redid the whole front end. I haven't had anything to use it on the van yet.

The inside is very solid on the van and I am going to just wire wheel the loose stuff off, clean it and coat it with the POR 15.

I will be using it this weekend when I do the disc brake/duel master conversion.

TurboVan
10-08-2012, 10:45 PM
Best way to fix those door cracks is to remove the latch, then gas-weld them (oxyacetylene), it will anneal the metal, too.
MIG will build up too much. TIG would also be OK.
Had the same problem.

Mbasaraba
10-09-2012, 04:14 AM
Best way to fix those door cracks is to remove the latch, then gas-weld them (oxyacetylene), it will anneal the metal, too.
MIG will build up too much. TIG would also be OK.
Had the same problem.


Sounds about right since I sold my TIG about a month ago. I used it 3 times in a year and it seemed a waste for a $2200 welder to just be sitting there. Of course now when I need it I dont have it. LoL

I hear what your saying about MIG building up, however, I might try to go from the INSIDE even with it being such a tight squeeze and then get the outside a bit and grind it down some.

Mbasaraba
10-09-2012, 06:52 PM
So I got my kit all laid out, I have everything except the hoses and steel lines and proportion valve. I got my Duel Master installed.

Vanner68
10-09-2012, 07:02 PM
So I got my kit all laid out, I have everything except the hoses and steel lines and proportion valve. I got my Duel Master installed.

DUAL master.

Sorry fr being a spelling nazi, but when I read 'duel master' I picture this:

http://static.tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pub/images/duel_masters_9351.jpg

(yup, used to be a manga geek)

Mbasaraba
10-09-2012, 07:26 PM
Thank you Greg I appreciate the help with the spelling. :P

I can't help but get pissy when I see people misspell there (their) words to (too). No idea why I typed duel that way. Lol

Vanner68
10-09-2012, 07:30 PM
And you missed that I misspelled 'for'...... lol

Mbasaraba
10-09-2012, 08:01 PM
Originally my first line was...

"thnks 4 corekting mi spelin" but decided not to provoke it. Haha

Vanner68
10-09-2012, 08:27 PM
Originally my first line was...

"thnks 4 corekting mi spelin" but decided not to provoke it. Haha

The dual/duel thing cracks me up, I see a lot of people on forums talking about 'duel carbs', I ask them how does your car run with the carbs fighting each other?

Mbasaraba
10-11-2012, 04:56 PM
Is this shot? I am very worried since the bolt that goes through the spindle to hold the king pin in place refuses to move!

<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/edUniifbqzo" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" width="640"></iframe>

gregw98
10-12-2012, 09:17 AM
Yeah, that is a lot of slop. PITA, but it ain't going to get any better. Eventually it will have to be addressed. Be a good time to drop the axle and remove a front leaf while you are at it.

Mbasaraba
10-12-2012, 09:27 AM
I was afraid of that...

I wonder if I can DRILL that pin out? Not the King Pin, the horizontal pin that holds the king pin in place...

pan58head
10-12-2012, 09:36 AM
Sorry to say matt i think that pin is hardened. Heat and beat is your only hope. I replied to you thread on vintage Bob

planetvear
10-12-2012, 11:32 AM
get yourself a good drift that is close to the size of the set pin and bang away. heat i would use sparingly. you will get it. pv

gregw98
10-12-2012, 03:11 PM
Lots of penetrating oil, like Aerokroil great stuff. Expensive, but works. probably next best would be PB Blaster.

Mbasaraba
10-13-2012, 07:35 AM
I am thinking I might need to just take the front axle off to work on it better? Not sure What I will use to hold the van up though. I will do a search for that Aerokroil. Dont think I have ever seen it before.

Thanks guys!

Vanner68
10-13-2012, 08:19 AM
Man, the last place I worked for had gallon cans of kroil. Used it to coat dies in storage as a rust preventative.

digz
10-13-2012, 08:38 AM
Good jackstands behind and in front of the spring perches is best. Whatever it takes to make you/it safe. Personally I like to make the rear pretty solid also to get rid of any accidental body movement.
5096
This is a bit extreme but just play it safe.

lvjjj
10-13-2012, 09:34 AM
Aero Kroil is great stuff, used it for years, no comparison to WD-40 or even PB Blaster. When I needed to get a front door hinge pin out, I hit it with the Kroil, let it sit for a while, drove the pin out easily with a screwdriver. Kroil also makes it with silicone in it for longer lasting lube. Here in Bellingham WA, there is a hardware store called Hardare Sales that carries everthing (you can buy one rivit or one bolt) including Kroil.

Mbasaraba
11-17-2012, 01:20 PM
Seats recovered! Bought these covers off eBay for $200 for the set. Thought they look great. Guy has lots of color combos. Took 10 days from date of purchase to sitting on my door step!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300506178232?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649



Got the front end back on the van but there are things wrong with the list of stuff from M1D for the disc conversion. It states 3/8 24 bolts but they are too small in diameter so now I need to look for the right ones.

catspa
11-17-2012, 03:15 PM
Larry, Tacoma Screw also carries Kroil if you're ever down that way...

Parker

Ben there
11-17-2012, 08:27 PM
Matt, are those the Fiero seats? They came out looking pretty good! I'm glad you're back on the van project - the '64 is coming along nicely here. I have everything out of it and am getting ready to put my engine into it.

Mbasaraba
11-17-2012, 08:48 PM
Matt, are those the Fiero seats? They came out looking pretty good! I'm glad you're back on the van project - the '64 is coming along nicely here. I have everything out of it and am getting ready to put my engine into it.

Yes they are Fiero seats. I got the covers from a guy on eBay for $200 for a pair.

Good to hear on the 64. Pete and I were wondering if you were still hanging in there, hadnt heard anything in a while.

I got the king pins and shocks replaced and started the disc brakes. Got to get a different bushing for the passenger side, it has a different size than the drivers side.

TurboVan
11-17-2012, 10:01 PM
I believe the bolts are 7/16-20

Mbasaraba
12-23-2012, 05:45 PM
So after we found that the motor in the 66 has some issues we decided we are going to do the V8 swap from the 3rd Gen donor.

EFI Throttle body 350 with 700R4 tranny. Dad and I got it pretty much ready to pull. Just need to drop the drive shaft and loosen the motor mounts and its ready to come out.

Also thinking I might pull the steering column since the 66 has a Buick one in it now, it wont be changing anything that is "Original". Will see if it is going to be long enough or not once we get the motor pulled. This would solve issues with the shifter and also keep all the hook ups for the Cruise. So nice the cruise control module is mounted right behind the throttle cable so it isnt another spare piece that has to be found a mounting location. LoL

Mbasaraba
12-24-2012, 06:17 PM
Got the motor and tranny pulled today and mounted it to the motor stand. Pulled all the extras and the intake. Motor looks in pretty good shape. We plan on cracking the heads loose tomorrow and getting it ready for rebuild.

Anyone suggest a good kit to use? Was thinking the sets on Summit would do nicely.

Jacques
12-25-2012, 06:32 AM
Great build thread I just I like the fact that you make all the broken stuff. great job on the check strap. I just bought a 66 and will be making a build thread also . keep posting pics its looking good.

Wookee
12-25-2012, 12:43 PM
If the engine ran good and was pretty quiet bottom end wise I would go a head and drop it in.
If it is a high mileage engine (over 150,000 milesw get in touch with a local machine shop and have it rebuilt right.........

........Wookee

Mbasaraba
01-06-2013, 10:06 AM
350 rebuilt and ready to install... and man she looks pretty...

http://i12.servimg.com/u/f12/16/99/45/46/350-110.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=334&u=16994546)

http://i12.servimg.com/u/f12/16/99/45/46/350-210.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=335&u=16994546)

http://i12.servimg.com/u/f12/16/99/45/46/van10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=336&u=16994546)

Wookee
01-06-2013, 11:13 AM
Pretty paint is =to at least 5 HP......LOL

........Wookee

Mbasaraba
01-06-2013, 11:35 AM
NAPA said 15 with it being 2 tone.....

planetvear
01-06-2013, 03:07 PM
looks great matt! you must be stoked. pv

Mbasaraba
01-06-2013, 07:12 PM
Tammy has been bragging it up on our Born to Van facebook group. She loves it!

http://www.facebook.com/groups/100365476760803/

Ben there
01-06-2013, 07:36 PM
Man, that is one fine engine, Matt! I may have to make another trip up just so I can gaze upon that beast when it is running... who knows? I might just come up in the '64, as soon as I get it totally road worthy.

Vanner68
01-06-2013, 09:53 PM
I drove right by Matt yesterday, sorta, going from Birmingham AL to Allentown PA.

Mbasaraba
01-07-2013, 01:37 PM
Too bad you didnt stop in bro. Pete and Linda were up to pick up that seat from the 3rd Gen and drool over the newly rebuilt 350. Glad you made it home safe!

Mbasaraba
01-10-2013, 08:33 AM
Of have seen discussions about cooling and everything on the I6. I know there was a different radiator in the V8 version 2nd Gen.

What is the difference in the 2 radiators? Coolant volume? Is the I6 Radiator not big enough to cool a V8? I will not have a typical cooling system since I will have a tunnel that funnels air directly through the radiator in much higher volume than a stock set up. I am also going to find the biggest CFM electric fan I can instead of the water pump mounted style.

Anyone know of one for sale or a replacement alternative?

EDIT: I should add that since my original radiator mounting will not be used, if it is a question of using a 2nd Gen V8 just for easy of mounting then that isnt a factor.

planetvear
01-10-2013, 04:22 PM
a couple of things to consider matt;

- put the biggest tunnel you can in.
- use the biggest radiator that will fit.
- use a radiator shroud.
- consider using a high-volume water pump.
- use antifreeze/coolant with water wetter or similar product.
- use a belly pan and belly pan wings.
- add a scoop to your belly pan.
- an oil cooler will help if you decide to do so.
- use a factory style clutch fan.

this is a topic that has been visited many times and what you see above summarizes what i have gotten out of the threads. i had much difficulty with a thermostatically controlled electric fan in front of my radiator.i finally took it out and the van ran cooler with a factory style fan without the electric. pv

Mbasaraba
01-18-2013, 10:47 AM
I forgot to update even though the motor has been in for over a week. All the wiring is hooked up to the sensors and such. I am waiting on a diagram on how to connect that harness to the van, thanks to PanelManard!

Picture doesnt show the harness on or the new wires. Too bad all those add on cover up my paint job but oh well. Yes I know it is still a flippin mess in there...

6118

Cant wait to get her started.

Next on the agenda is to start framing up the dog house and tunnel. Going to temp in the seats and go from there.

I still need to fix / replace the steering. The tilt wheel is REALLY loose and I dont really wanna mess with it. I noticed my steering box is leaking BAD! Looks like a solid ball of grease. Is it a real pain to repair the steering box?

OR

Anyone have a good steering box they want to sell? Even if the steering shaft is cut down I dont care, I want to just add on to it anyways.

Vanner68
01-19-2013, 06:11 PM
Did you check out this link?

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/tbi350.php

Pretty much covers everything.

Mbasaraba
01-19-2013, 06:56 PM
Thanks for the link Greg. I ordered a radiator, inline fill and twin 12" fans today.

Mbasaraba
01-20-2013, 08:06 AM
I worry the alternator and AC pump will be too high and wide. The mounting bracket for both is a HUGE chunk of steel but not sure how else to do it.

I left the power steering pump on and just looped the hose so that it will recycle fluid. I left this on so that it uses the standard serp belt that came on the van.

Would it be a good idea to try finding a way to mount the AC and Alternator like an older 350 version?

planetvear
01-20-2013, 08:12 AM
march has just about anything you could want for pulley systems, although they can be pricey.

Space Truckin
01-20-2013, 08:30 AM
Talk about "shoe horn" that alternator and ac pump look to be as you said pretty high and wide for the doghouse. My alternator is mounted low on driver side and the ac pump is mounted passenger side high and isn't nearly as large in diameter .

Mbasaraba
01-20-2013, 08:31 AM
The block and heads should be tapped for older style brackets shouldnt they? Even if it is a newer year motor maybe the left it standard drill/tap as older models.

Would be really nice if I could mount the alternator where the power steering pump is and the AC on the lower mounting location on the opposite side...

Vanner68
01-20-2013, 08:38 AM
Honestly, that doesn't look much higher than the alternator on the 74 Chevelle 350 I'm running in my 68.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Vanner68/IMG_20120527_170740.jpg


Best way to find out is drop the doghouse in there and see if it fits.

Mbasaraba
01-20-2013, 08:53 AM
I set the Fiero seats in it just to see and even without a dog house on it the seat needed to be right up against the door pillar to fit past the Alt.

I ordered 2 - 3/8 heim joints and will make my own bracketing for the alternator. Still not sure how to do the AC but I will have to come up with something.

Vanner68
01-20-2013, 09:07 AM
As said above, March might have what you need. Street Rods are pretty tight under the hood.

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/5/4/5/6/5/6/webimg/506316593_tp.jpg

This is from Southern Performance...

http://www.southernperformancesystems.com/Parts/ConceptOne/Resources/concep6e.jpeg

http://www.southernperformancesystems.com/Parts/ConceptOne/concept-one-hub.html

6050 Peachtree Parkway
Suite 240-207
Norcross, GA 30092
Phone # (678) 482-0866
Warehouse Visits by Appointment Only

digz
01-20-2013, 09:19 AM
I know this sounds counter productive , but I'd pull all that crap off the front of the engine and see what you have to work with for mounting points. Billet Alt brackets are available pretty cheap to get an alt tucked in front of the pass. side head if the holes are there.
6131
Steel grooved pulleys are available almost anywhere and costwise cheap. On the A/C I'm no help, but if it isnt High on the to-do list ditch it til you can come up with an alternative to that monster and have the rest of the system figured out.
I know all this depends on whats behind that bracket, but I'd look.
JM2C Joe

fustkarr
01-20-2013, 09:26 AM
Can't remember the name rt. now but there's a guy that advertises in Street Rodder {a regular} that sells steel brackets for small blocks, your not paying for billet/chrome/polished just function. Nuttin' fancy, just function.
Gluk, Randy

Mbasaraba
01-20-2013, 09:35 AM
Digz, the AC is the most important part. LoL

Might sound weird but when I figured in putting in a "Vintage Van AC Unit" ($2000 approximately with all the lines and every thing) I could rebuild this 350 and use the AC that came with it for cheaper than the VV AC unit. If it was just ME that would driving the van I could live without it. The wife with 4 kids as a daily driver in Alabama... not going to happen.

fustkarr, I am looking for functional. I painted the block and the rest then put on the ugly wiring and I realized I wasted $20 on paint. I am going to pull all that crap off the front and see what I can come up with. I seen a mounting system on eBay that used a solid bracket then 2 heim joints for the tightening instead of the old slotted bracket. Going to see how that goes. If I dont get it right at least I am only out $6 for the heim that I can use somewhere else.

The AC is the big hurtle...

digz
01-20-2013, 09:59 AM
I totally understand on the A/C then,,lol. That alt bracket I have uses 2 heims for the tensioning seems to work well.

Mbasaraba
01-20-2013, 02:56 PM
Greg, went out and Jr and I set the 1st Gen DH over the top. The alternator and AC pump just barely rub. I am thinking by expanding by 1/2 on each side at the top and we will be OK.

I cant really redo one bracket without doing both since it is all connected by that huge slab of steel on the front of the motor. Guess I will try it and see how it goes.

Thanks for the tip.

Going to follow others suggestions like Kustomizer putting in the access doors for access to plugs. i will start framing it out with 1" angle iron.

Vanner68
01-20-2013, 03:48 PM
I kinda thought it would fit, being that it cam out of a 3rd gen van. I think those are the narrowest factory brackets available. As a plus, you won't have to worry about finding an odd size serpentine belt...

lvjjj
01-21-2013, 10:07 AM
planet, I think the first thing on your list, the tunnel, is the most important modification you can make for cooling. Even though I had installed most of the other things you mention, the 292 never cooled properly until I built the tunnel. There is no substitute for ram air.

Mbasaraba
01-26-2013, 11:49 AM
Ok so today I am trying to work on the brakes. I did the front disc conversion and dual master upgrade. I got all the steel lines that Don had listed.

The Armored lines are great, they are made to be able to bend/form by hand. I have a bender but this will make it easier to get them exactly where I want them as I put them on.

I got THIS Proportioning Valve (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Proportioning-Valve-With-Residual-Valve-Kit-/200863371238?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec463cfe6&vxp=mtr) but not exactly sure how this is supposed to work.

I got the short line on the MC. Does the valve go on the end of that line then put the 2lbs residual valve next then the lines to the front?

The back lines run run straight off the MC?

Does it matter what port of the MC goes to front and which to back?

Mbasaraba
01-26-2013, 11:51 AM
Got my radiator and 2 -12" fans today. Crappy the fans didnt come with the mounting cables to go through the radiator.

6193

Vanner68
01-26-2013, 12:51 PM
Ok so today I am trying to work on the brakes. I did the front disc conversion and dual master upgrade. I got all the steel lines that Don had listed.

The Armored lines are great, they are made to be able to bend/form by hand. I have a bender but this will make it easier to get them exactly where I want them as I put them on.

I got THIS Proportioning Valve (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Proportioning-Valve-With-Residual-Valve-Kit-/200863371238?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec463cfe6&vxp=mtr) but not exactly sure how this is supposed to work.

I got the short line on the MC. Does the valve go on the end of that line then put the 2lbs residual valve next then the lines to the front?

The back lines run run straight off the MC?

Does it matter what port of the MC goes to front and which to back?
Larger reservoir on MC is for front brakes, prop valve goes inline with rear brakes, the idea is to reduce pressure to rears to prevent lockup.

Residual valves- the 2lb units are for the front disc, 10lb is for drum. Explanation from Jegs site:


JEGS Residual Brake Pressure Valves retain minimal fluid pressure by preventing brake line drain back in applications where the master cylinder is located below the calipers. This eliminates excessive travel and that dreadful spongy pedal feel. The 2 pound residual brake pressure valve is designed for disc brakes; the 10 pound valve is for drum brakes.

Mbasaraba
01-26-2013, 02:10 PM
Somehow this seems backwards to me. The MC is designed for a drum/drum setup, so 10 lbs from both ports? So it is ok to run 10 lbs to the discs that are only supposed to be 2? I am not arguing, just trying to understand how that works...

digz
01-26-2013, 05:10 PM
The MC doesn't control residual pressure unless it has built in valves which you do not want for what you are doing. It just supplies line pressure when applied and returns to neutral when released (supposed to anyway). You are not running 10 or 2 lbs to the brakes , that is the pressure it retains after you release them. like a bleed off check valve of sorts.

Vanner68
01-27-2013, 10:35 AM
Somehow this seems backwards to me. The MC is designed for a drum/drum setup, so 10 lbs from both ports? So it is ok to run 10 lbs to the discs that are only supposed to be 2? I am not arguing, just trying to understand how that works...

If the calipers were allowed to bleed completely down, you would have a very low pedal. That is why the reservoir for front disc brakes is larger, the extra is to keep the caliper filled as the pads wear. Generally, the front reservoir is the one furthest from the actuator rod.

Rear drum brakes usually have a self adjuster that mechanically expands the shoes, if not, then the 10 residual valve is needed to overcome the strength of the springs.

BILLS66
01-27-2013, 11:01 AM
Mbasaraba,Tell more about you new radiator. Bill

Mbasaraba
01-27-2013, 11:23 AM
If the calipers were allowed to bleed completely down, you would have a very low pedal. That is why the reservoir for front disc brakes is larger, the extra is to keep the caliper filled as the pads wear. Generally, the front reservoir is the one furthest from the actuator rod.

Rear drum brakes usually have a self adjuster that mechanically expands the shoes, if not, then the 10 residual valve is needed to overcome the strength of the springs.

Greg I get the residual part , it is the adjustable valve that has me wondering.

I will post radiator info when I get home on my PC. On phone now.

Mbasaraba
01-27-2013, 12:49 PM
Mbasaraba,Tell more about you new radiator. Bill

Bill,

Here is what I put together for my radiator.

Radiator 27 x 19.5

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140820051813?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Fans...

2 12" 1730 CFM (I have to offset these a little bit cuz the core height was less than expected.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140820051813?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Inline 1 1/2" Filler

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200876188845?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I am going to mount it on the radiator top and bottom with aluminum mounts once I get the brake lines set in place. I had to move the radiator ahead a couple of inches due to moving the motor ahead so I didnt have to modify the drive shaft with my 350/700R4 swap.

m1dadio
01-27-2013, 02:11 PM
Brake system Hydraulics.

Without attempting to give you the whole engineering course, I will try to explain a few basics in laymen terms.

It is clear that allot of people become confused by the BS they read on sale materials and what some "know it all" sales people tell them.

You would agree it takes a certain amount of "power" or "force" to stop 4000lb vehicle moving with momentum at 100mph.
And you have to stop it with your right foot.
Without getting into the actual math calculations, you need to accept that "power" or "force" is not magic, and it can be converted, multiplied or divided into different forms of energy but retaining the same "power".

In this case it is produced by your foot pushing down on the brake pedal with an average force of about 100lbs
That 100lbs transfers through the brake pedal linkage to the master cylinder. That pedal linkage provides a mechanical advantage (unfortunately in these vans of 5.86:1) There is a best mechanical advantage for manual or for boosted brakes, 5.86:1 falls in about the middle so its not best for either.
This means the push rod going into the master is pushing and the master piston with a force of 586lbs. however the during this conversion if the pedal moved 5.86" down the push-rod moves the master cylinder piston only 1"

The master cylinder converts this to hydraulic pressure expressed in pounds per square inch (PSI) and the amount of that PSI depends on the diameter of your master cylinder piston. Lets pick a 1" cylinder bore which has a surface area of 0.785 square inches,.
This means the hydraulic pressure coming out of each line of your duel circuit 1" bore master cylinder will be about 715 PSI when you apply 100lbs force to the pedal.
This much more then is needed for drum brakes but on the low end of whats needed for disc brakes.

Rear drums generally like to have about 400 to 700 PIS and front disc brakes generally like to see from 600 to 1200 PSI. But that varies because what your van needs depends on the wheel cylinder bore the shoe and drum size the caliper piston bore and the pad surface area and the disc diameter all play a significant roll in "proportioning" of the forces.
That is why you should use an adjustable proportioning valve The valve from a 2nd gen van is not a proportioning valve it is a distribution block only. proportioning valves are designed vehicle specific, even in any given car the weight difference between the AC or non AC model will have a different proportioning valve. There is not way in hell you can just pick a proportioning valve off some other vehicle and know it is right for your custom brake system. Oh it might seem like it works when you drive around normally but you do not know if it is going to save your ass in the most extreme braking conditions. The internal design of brake proportioning valves is a completely different and large topic on its own.

The residual check valves, 2lb for disc and 10lb for drums do many more things and are needed for many more reasons then people know. I cant take the space to explain all of it here but here are a few. These valves release the pressure and fluid back to the master except they retain the pressure stated in the lines and at the wheels. On disc brakes they are too keep the caliper piston full and the pads up against the rotor with a tiny force so they are ready to apply when you hit the pedal. If you do not have these the flexing of the wheel bearings translates into the rotor pushing the piston back into the caliper and causing a low of spongy pedal because you have to get the piston and pads back up to the rotor when you push the pedal, that sucks up half your pedal travel just getting the pads to the rotors. On the drum brakes the valve keeps the 10lb pressure to keep the chevron type wheel cylinder seals inflated which keeps them from leaking brake fluid at all times and also prevents the seals from pulling back and sucking air into the system when the pedal is released abruptly, the 10 psi also keeps the system charged and ready. if they were not there you would waist brake pedal travel making up that difference. residual valves also reduce moisture ingestion of the hydraulic system by maintaining a positive pressure at all times.The residual valves as you know are also needed to prevent back flow when the master cylinder is at or close to the level of the wheels. The list goes on,these are only some of the reasons you will benefit from residual check valves.

continued next post

M1D

m1dadio
01-27-2013, 03:13 PM
Continued from previous post.

There is only one thing that could ever cause a master cylinder to be a "Drum brake Master" and that is "IF" it has a 10 lb residual check valve built into either or both ports.

It is very unlikely and never heard of there being a "disc master" with 2lb residual check valves built in to the ports.

Most vehicles since the common use of disc brakes in the mid 70's had the residual valving built into the "Combination Valve" (which is much more then a proportioning valve although that's the common nick name) and the master cylinder had no residual check valves built in.

When it comes to master cylinders there are only three things you need to know when building a custom brake system.

#1 Does the master have built in residual check valves or not!! You want no built in valves. Most after market brake system customize-rs provide various versions of the same master cylinder that was used on early 70's Corvettes. NOT BECAUSE THE CAR WAS A CORVETTE but because the casting shape of that master is a low profile with large volume reservoir, it comes with no residual check valves and it can come with one of several different piston sizes and it can be for manual or boosted brakes and it can have the line ports on either or both sides. This all makes it a universal master cylinder Casting to use but they are not all the same inside.

#2 what size of piston bore does it have? for your van you might want a 1" or you might want a 1.125" bore and that depends on many other factors you need to consider first. usually the larger bore would be selected for boosted brakes but that's only if you have the correct pedal ratio for boosted brakes. Our vans have 5.86:1 pedal ratio which is neither best for manual or boosted brakes. That means it comes down to the smaller bore will be easier to push the pedal but the pedal will travel further and the larger bore will be a higher pedal but harder to apply the brakes. And that has nothing to do with "if you are going power or manual brakes".

#3 The hole drilled into the master cylinder piston that the push rod goes into comes it two depths. There is a "short hole" where the hole is about 3/8" deep, this is intended to be used with a brake booster where there is not possibility of the push rod exiting the hole. This short hole master is not intended for manual brakes and could be dangerous. If you sidestep the pedal and let the brake pedal slam up, the push-rod may withdraw faster then the hydraulics returns the piston and the result could be the push rod falling out of the master which would result in NO BRAKES on the next application of the pedal. These master cylinders also come with a "DEEP" hole where the push rod goes in. that hole is about 1.25" deep and is intended for manual brakes. Your van push-rod is the right length and will fit into the hole without modification. With the deep hole there is no way the push rod will fall out of the hole no matter how fast the pedal returns.


Hope this clears up some of the confusion flying around.

M1d

planetvear
01-27-2013, 03:15 PM
that is some very good stuff michel.

Mbasaraba
01-27-2013, 03:33 PM
Yep it is PV.

Dunno how to even reply to that...

Hopefully I got the correct parts installed, but I am sure I have screwed it up somehow. I will make sure I drive it first so if it isnt, at least Tammy will collect a good Life Insurance check...

m1dadio
01-27-2013, 10:36 PM
Don't be too thrown of by all that Matt.

Just test drive your vans brakes easily at first. Don't even put it in gear until you have a good pedal and even then be careful the first time you put it in gear and make sure nothing is in front of you in case they don't initially hold well. Even a good solid feeling pedal does not necessarily mean you have brakes at the wheels.There are a ton of things that could be incorrect at first and will need diagnosing and adjustment to fine tune it all.

Just don't jump in slam her into drive as soon as the engine gets running, slow and safe at first.

Even with the math and engineering skills I changed my master 3 times, the booster 2 times and redesigned the pedal linkage 2 times before I was totally happy with my brake system. However to keep that in context, I am insane about every detail where a normal person probably would have been fine with the first build.

M1D

marwink
01-28-2013, 02:42 AM
Wow! You guys give out a good education. I feel honored and humbled to be able to read this stuff, let alone try any of it. Inspirational at the least and phenomenal by any standard. Thanks for the lessons.

Mbasaraba
02-02-2013, 05:12 PM
Mounted my fans to my radiator. A guy on VV suggested a custom shroud.

Threw this together today... Flat piece with 2 rails that bolt to the radiator.

http://i12.servimg.com/u/f12/16/99/45/46/radiat11.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=344&u=16994546)

Mbasaraba
02-03-2013, 02:49 PM
I went out and got the radiator mounted on the bottom. The top will mount to the tunnel frame.

I had bought an inline water fill but doesnt look like I will need it since the fill is much higher than the heads.

http://i12.servimg.com/u/f12/16/99/45/46/rad-in10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=345&u=16994546)

Ol 60s Soul
02-03-2013, 03:49 PM
Nice build, I love the Sports van look. And the brake information was a good too

Wookee
02-03-2013, 04:35 PM
Sorry I really think your fan mounting system will block off too much air flow.
You would be better with a clutch fan on the engine with the largest fan blade mounted on the clutch.
Spring summer temps will prove me wrong or right.

.......Wookee
.

Mbasaraba
02-03-2013, 04:44 PM
Yeah I hope it works otherwise I am screwed space wise. I already moved the radiator 2 inches forward and it is getting to close to the brake lines. Each fan is supposed to be 1750 CFM. We will see I guess.

Wookee
02-03-2013, 04:55 PM
An upper tunnel going to the front of the dog house will also help out a lot.

........Wookee

Mbasaraba
02-03-2013, 05:07 PM
Yeah I plan on making the tunnel bigger than it was before. I am waiting on the wiring diagram befor I do too much. It is a lot easier getting around in the van without a new dog house in the way. Hopefully I will get it soon.

i got my brakes nearing completion. I got the Ts today and the lines are hooked to the master. The rubber lines I had to return one since the guy ordered two left side lines instead of one for each side.

Mbasaraba
02-05-2013, 08:25 AM
Need some advice. I got the radiator mounted where it will go but now have to think about connecting water pump to the outlet on the radiator. It will be a bit of an odd angle but I do have plenty of room to put a hose in.

Anyone used a kit like this or comparable?

Flexible Radiator Hose (http://www.ebay.com/itm/390445269913?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

m1dadio
02-05-2013, 09:20 AM
What Wookee said.
I think the fans are good but your fan mounting is really blocking off half the rad surface. You have room to move the fans off the rad surface a couple inches and make a proper shroud that transitions from the full rad surface tapering into the fan diameters. That flat plate you have is not going to let the air flow as it could.

My fan in the factory shroud is only about an inch off the rad
6305
6306

As for the flexible rad hose, I tend to stay away from all the "New" "Good" ideas that end up not so popular. Car parts stores have hoses of all shapes and sizes. Get an idea of what you need and a good parts person should be able to line you up with what you need.

just my 2 cents worth

Actually were getting rid of the penny so that will have to be my 5 cents worth.

US shoppers are going to be pissed when they see everything they buy here being rounded up to the next nickle.

At least half the pennies in circulation in Canada are US pennies, were not going to separate them when we recover the metal. It is speculated we will make about 11 million $ off the US pennies circulating in Canada.

But I won't be seeing any of that.

M1D

Wookee
02-05-2013, 09:54 AM
Unfortunatly you made two bad mistakes.
1st making the mounts for you rad solid.
2nd welding these solid mounts to the frame work of you rad.

Is the OD on your thermostat housing the same OD of the top port of your rad ?
They really need to be. Using Sleeves on rad hoses is not a good practice to get into.

..........Wookee

Mbasaraba
02-05-2013, 10:16 AM
Nothing is welded to the radiator or to the mounts, it is all bolted together. The mounts for the frame to radiator are 90 angle mounts that bolt to the original mounting location and are bolted to the front flange of the radiator. The shroud is mounted to the rear flange on the radiator with 6- 10/32 bolts and lock nuts.

EDIT: I should also add that I have cut sections of rubber baler belt that I had planned on putting between the mount and the radiator. I just havent installed them yet since the rad will come out a few times before it is finalized.

I was looking for help on the hose.

Wookee
02-05-2013, 10:49 AM
Sorry Mat from the picture YOU posted the mounts look welded to the rad

6308

IF the OD's of the thermostat housing and the rad port are the same OD.They do, or used to make flexible rubber upper hoses in different lengths.
These are inexpensive and will allow you to get every thing dialed in.
Once every thing is dialed in and working correctly updating to a better product to do the same job could be in order.

........Wookee

Mbasaraba
02-05-2013, 11:06 AM
I can see how looking at that picture it could seem that way.

I used a sheet of .085 aluminum for the shroud. I cut 2" wide strips of .125 thick aluminum, 2 for each side. The welds you see are the .085 plate welded to the .125 plates. I clamped it all onto the radiator side flanges and match drilled for the 10/32 bolt holes. I used long bolts since I planned on using strips of rubber baler belt as a vibration deterrent and sealant for the edges.

Might not be able to tell from the picture but there is a slight "bow" in my shroud plate. I did this to retain tension in the plate to reduce vibration of the plate itself while the fans were on. I think the plate is too thick for it to have caused it a lot of vibe but I wanted to be on the safe side. Also, the fan itself is about 1 inch off the face of the radiator.

I seen a number of the rubber flex hoses but worried with the multiple compounded angles it would be at that it would kink. I know they make springs to keep them from collapsing but thought if the stainless hoses would eliminate that possibility they would sure look a lot nicer than the black rubber lines. :)

Vanner68
02-05-2013, 08:39 PM
If your rad is close to the dimensions of the original top tank 6 cyl radiator, hoses for a 76 Monte Carlo are a good fit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Vanner68/IMG_20120623_175749.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Vanner68/IMG_20120623_175730.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Vanner68/IMG_20120527_170740.jpg

Mbasaraba
02-12-2013, 02:18 PM
I did buy one of those kits and started installing it. It seems like the new metal hose is a bit smaller than the rubber hose that it is supposed to go in but maybe it squishes enough to hold it, there wasnt enough "Adapters" to go around the metal line so I take it they are supposed to just go into the longer rubber hose.

I used the 1.5 adapters on the thermo housing and the top of the radiator.

The water pump and lower outlet on the radiator wont get an adapter, just the main hose piece with the metal end.

I got all my lower end mounts built and mounted on the new radiator and frame. Going to start my new doghouse frame this weekend. I had ran out of 75/25 for my MIG but got that exchanged and ready to start. :)

Mbasaraba
02-14-2013, 04:26 AM
Started laying out my dog house yesterday and it is going to be a real job. Since I am trying to keep it as narrow as possible to avoid taking up "Seat Space" but needing to be wide enough to change the plugs in the future I am going to make it split and tilt forward instead of back like the original.

Still having a lot of issues with wiring and been given lots of options for new wiring. I bought an EZ-Wiring harness and should be here early next week but that only takes care of the extra stuff in the van and not the motor.

Looking at the affordable-fuel-injection harness option but I think I will lose the wires to my 700R4 and cruise so dont think I can go this route.

Really wish I was better at all this...

Vanner68
02-14-2013, 07:24 PM
Started laying out my dog house yesterday and it is going to be a real job. Since I am trying to keep it as narrow as possible to avoid taking up "Seat Space" but needing to be wide enough to change the plugs in the future I am going to make it split and tilt forward instead of back like the original.

Still having a lot of issues with wiring and been given lots of options for new wiring. I bought an EZ-Wiring harness and should be here early next week but that only takes care of the extra stuff in the van and not the motor.

Looking at the affordable-fuel-injection harness option but I think I will lose the wires to my 700R4 and cruise so dont think I can go this route.

Really wish I was better at all this...
Here's a tip that I give the new guys at work that are trying to do electrics:


Can you read a road map?


That is all an electrical diagram is. A road map.


Look at the routes that get you where you want to go. Follow (using a highlighter to make it easier) the diagram from the source (ECM) to the destination. (Fuel injector, for example) You know you need fuel, air and spark for an engine to run, so the fuel is the injectors and associated hardware, the 'air' is the MAF sensor and oxygen sensor in the exhaust, the spark is the wiring going to the distributor. Follow the wiring that goes to the trans. Follow the wiring for the cruise.

Break it down into small sub-assemblies and it becomes easier.

If you get stuck, send me a scan of the wiring diagram, (or I can look it up from year and model of the donor van) and I can 'prune the shrub' so to speak.

Mbasaraba
02-15-2013, 10:52 AM
Thanks for the encouragement Greg. I will track down a wiring diagram for the 1991 chevy van and go from there.

Got my EZ Wiring kit today...

http://i77.servimg.com/u/f77/16/99/45/46/harnes10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=346&u=16994546)

Mbasaraba
02-16-2013, 03:13 PM
Tunnel started. Will get the side panels cut and mounted next.

http://i77.servimg.com/u/f77/16/99/45/46/tunnel10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=347&u=16994546)

Space Truckin
02-16-2013, 03:29 PM
You are gonna get some air flow with that!!!

planetvear
02-16-2013, 07:32 PM
big time! looks good matt.

Mbasaraba
02-17-2013, 02:26 PM
Thanks guys.

Got the drivers side piece of the tunnel installed. Taking me a long time since the floor is so uneven and I want it to fit snug. I put angle iron on the inside of the bottom to bolt it on. All of this will be covered by my sound deadener and carpet.

http://i77.servimg.com/u/f77/16/99/45/46/tunnel11.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=349&u=16994546)

planetvear
02-17-2013, 05:50 PM
that will make a big difference in airflow to the radiator matt. nice work!

Mbasaraba
02-18-2013, 06:00 PM
Drivers side took me 3 hours since I didnt know exactly how I was going to do it. Passenger side took me 20 minutes. I cut it free hand so it is a bit uneven but it has 1 inch of over lap so it doesnt matter, going to pull it out and grind it even. This is going to be completely covered with sound deadener and carpet. Just need to bolt it in after it is ground level.

http://i77.servimg.com/u/f77/16/99/45/46/pass110.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=352&u=16994546)

http://i77.servimg.com/u/f77/16/99/45/46/pass210.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=353&u=16994546)

http://i77.servimg.com/u/f77/16/99/45/46/pass310.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=354&u=16994546)

http://i77.servimg.com/u/f77/16/99/45/46/pass410.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=355&u=16994546)

m1dadio
02-18-2013, 11:06 PM
Hey ? a made in China dog house too! Whats this world coming too I say?

m1d

TurboVan
02-18-2013, 11:15 PM
Ideal design.

Mbasaraba
02-19-2013, 06:24 AM
Hey ? a made in China dog house too! Whats this world coming too I say?

m1d

Lol I used the box from my Plasma to make the pattern. I was wondering who was going to bring it up. :P

Thanks TV. We will see how it pans out when I get it rolling.

Next I need to work on the solid section over the radiator then the heating and cooling before I finish the upper counsel of this

Mbasaraba
02-22-2013, 06:01 PM
Took the steering column from the 1991 apart today. Going to be a lot easier than I thought to use it. Should getit done ttomorrow.

Vanner68
02-22-2013, 08:04 PM
Sorta drove past ya today- well, I20 to I 459 back to I20....went from Charlotte NC to Meridian Mississppi today.

Was thinking about making a side trip but the weather was crappy.

Mbasaraba
02-22-2013, 08:41 PM
Yeah it wasn't real nice out. Maybe next time bro.

Vanner68
02-22-2013, 08:54 PM
Yeah it wasn't real nice out. Maybe next time bro.

Yeah, I seem to be spending a lot of time in the South lately.

So much so that my wife thinks I talk funny.

Mbasaraba
02-23-2013, 09:13 AM
Steering wheel with Tint, cruise, dimmer switch... check!!!

1 hour to fab it in. Going to work on a shroud for it tomorrow. Then I will smooth and paint the lower end.

http://i77.servimg.com/u/f77/16/99/45/46/steeri11.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=356&u=16994546)

BILLS66
02-23-2013, 03:29 PM
Unbelievable job you are doing ,really enjoying watching your progress. Bill

Mbasaraba
02-23-2013, 04:52 PM
Thanks Bill. I know it is professional but it will be one of a kind that's for sure...

Vanner68
02-23-2013, 07:31 PM
How did you attach the tilt column to the stock steering box?

Mbasaraba
02-23-2013, 08:09 PM
The original had already modified for the Buick tilt column. They cut the original off about 12 inches from the steering box and welded an adapter tube.

I cut the original shaft off 6 inches above the steering box. The new shaft telescopes about 14 inches inside itself. I welded a 3 inch piece of square tubing on the new shaft. It goes over the original which i ground flat on two sides and used a 3/8 grade 8 bolt to control rotation.

Vanner68
02-23-2013, 08:12 PM
The original had already modified for the Buick tilt column. They cut the original off about 12 inches from the steering box and welded an adapter tube.

I cut the original shaft off 6 inches above the steering box. The new shaft telescopes about 14 inches inside itself. I welded a 3 inch piece of square tubing on the new shaft. It goes over the original which i ground flat on two sides and used a 3/8 grade 8 bolt to control rotation.

Cool. I have an Olds tilt column laying around, but not sure if I really want to cut my column.

Mbasaraba
03-04-2013, 08:00 AM
Has been awhile since an update.

Was sick for 3 days and was hard to even get out of the house to go to work let alone to the shop.

Tammy's whole family thing is screwed up. Her mom lived 50 miles away, hasnt seen my kids for 6 years. Last time we seen her was 3 years ago at Tammy's Great Aunt's funeral. Her dad lives 20 miles away, see him once or twice a year. In contrast, my folks live 2000 miles away and they come down for a few weeks every year to see us and the kids.

Got some rough news that Tammy's mom is terminal with cancer. Colon cancer spread every where, liver, kidneys, everything shutting down. She let her kids know last Tuesday, and she has days to live according to the doctors. Tammy and her brother and sister been running around trying to get all the "Legal" stuff taken care of while there is time. We have spent a few days up with her mom but she is wasted away to nothing and in severe pain.

I been telling Tammy for years, "I dont care if you mom says she is too busy, GO SEE HER". Now it is too late and she wishes she would have.

Wookee
03-04-2013, 09:26 AM
Matt life throws twists and turns at you that keep you a way from your van project.
The good thing is these old girls do not eat.They will not throw it up in your face that you have NOT spent time with them.Will wait in the shop patently for your return.
Some time you seam to get more done on a project if you do walk a way from it for a bit.....

.......Wookee

Mbasaraba
03-09-2013, 01:28 PM
SHIFTER...

Been looking to get a nice shifter for my install. Been looking at B & M and Lokar.

First I will say that I want to mount this on the FACE of my dash. People might say WTH, to this but that is where I want it.

I found a 6 inch Lokar cable shifter, $315, spendy. The cable is super short though. If I am going to pay $315, it better be ready to use out of the box.

B & M has some nice shifters but the mounting boxes for them are HUGE! This was a reason I wanted to go with Lokar since it has a much smaller and cleaner mounting application.

Suggestions on other types people have used? Really I would like it if the cable entered from the BACK, not the front.

I do have some 10 foot push pull cables and been thinking of just making my own shifter. I have a few CNC/No switches which could be used as a NSS but the "Click" between positions is the part I worry about.

gregw98
03-09-2013, 02:40 PM
Matt, sorry to hear about Tammy's Mom.
I have used a early Mustang shifters on several cars. Even the newer Mustangs have some pretty cool looking shifters.
6872

6873

Mbasaraba
03-09-2013, 03:24 PM
I really like both of those Greg. The newer one looks like it would be too big for the area I am thinking but the older looks really close to what I am thinking. Did you use a Push /Pull cable for that?

gregw98
03-09-2013, 08:01 PM
No, I used a straight rod. A cable could easily be adapted. The shifter handle can be shortened to fit your needs. With the Mustang shifter, you can order the transmission mounted shift lever to make adjust the throw a heck of a lot easier. Also look into the old Dodge van and RVs that use a dash mounted shifter. When I was a kid, my Mom had a 1958 Plymouth wagon that had push button shift on the dash. I have looked into that system and found the button assembly, but apparently there is a lot more to it than just that assembly.

Mbasaraba
03-17-2013, 09:39 AM
I ordered some weather stripping for a Caravan sliding door from eBay and got it yesterday, unfortunately it is not going to work on my flip out windows. Back to square one on that part... $50 wasted...

Weather Stripping (http://www.ebay.com/itm/320995885315?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)

smiley
03-17-2013, 11:22 AM
I ordered some weather stripping for a Caravan sliding door from eBay and got it yesterday, unfortunately it is not going to work on my flip out windows. Back to square one on that part... $50 wasted...

Weather Stripping (http://www.ebay.com/itm/320995885315?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)

Are you talking about the pop out windows? If so, call Mac. He can tell you what to order.

Floorman
03-17-2013, 04:29 PM
Matt, You should check out this site http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2011_Catalog_Web.pdf
Goto page 63. Look for part # VSG001 $1.65/ft. call 814-467-9842 (tel:814-467-9842)
and order what you need.

Mbasaraba
03-17-2013, 06:26 PM
Thanks so much. Will order some tomorrow .

Mbasaraba
03-19-2013, 07:04 AM
Found a slight bit of motivation this weekend, about an hours worth, so thought I would mod my Fiero seat brackets. I had been thinking about this since I mounted Pete's and our seats and how I had went to such great lengths to mount these. It is one of those times you face palm yourself and say, WTH was I thinking?

So this is what the bracket looks like on the bottom of the seat. Most of the feet are at odd angles and different heights. I used iron and welding originally to get these mounts to bolt in, wow a mistake...

6996

There are 2 rivets per bracket on the bottom. 4 per side, 8 per seat... I ground off the heads and pounded out the rivets. There are little wheels and ball bearings for the track to run on in between the 2 sections. I took that apart to get the 2 dropped rivets out then greased up the rollers. The holes were a bit small for my bolts so I drilled those out and installed my bolts and tack welded them in. Now the brackets sit flat and level from side to side. A piece of tubing will run for side to side and this will be easily welded to the new mounting in the van.

6997

Since the brackets were apart, took the back off the seat and installed the new cover for these seat. Here is a cover installed on the seat.

6998

Vanner68
03-19-2013, 07:53 AM
Nice!

Now paint them dang seat mounts before you install the seats!

Mbasaraba
03-19-2013, 08:15 AM
Lol I did paint them. The picture of the seat with the cover is the drivers side before I fixed the bracket.

digz
03-19-2013, 02:08 PM
Looks Great! Once ya get the brackets flat it makes changing things up so much easier. Covers look really good.

Mbasaraba
03-19-2013, 05:38 PM
Anyone have a source for the clamp latches for the dog house? I need 4 for how I am thinking of doing mine.

Vanner68
03-19-2013, 06:18 PM
While not original, I used these on my 69 because they were 'adjustable'

http://p.globalsources.com/IMAGES/PDT/B1011997494/Cabinet-Latch.jpg


Any decent hardware store should have them.

Mbasaraba
03-19-2013, 08:38 PM
Thanks Greg. I looked on eBay before asking but they want $15-20 each. Is that typical?

Vanner68
03-19-2013, 09:03 PM
That sounds high. IIRC I paid about $5.00, but that was 20 yrs ago.

digz
03-19-2013, 09:06 PM
I was just looking through an MSC catalog yesterday , they have a wide variety of adjustable slide and clamp type hinges

Mbasaraba
03-20-2013, 06:57 AM
So I went on eBay and found a few things I am going to try...

7009

and 4 of these...

7010

Will see how it works. I wanted to go with more of a metal type but I want the handle to pull 2 directions and I thought that metal latches might not look all that good mounted at an angle...

fustkarr
03-20-2013, 03:36 PM
Try lookin' up Southco Company, they manufacture sheetmetal hardware {tie downs/latches etc}...or just look up sheetmetal hardware.
Gluk, Randy

Mbasaraba
04-22-2013, 07:00 AM
Been a long time since an update. Has been hard to get out to the shop to work on the van. Very discouraged I havent got to start the motor yet and so much to do till I can.

This weekend I got a few things down.

1. Ran all the wiring from the new EZ-Wiring kit to the rear of the van. Branched off 2 extra wires for a total of 3 dome lights.

A note on the kit, even though it says it will run full for a full sized truck, this is still too short for our vans. In a truck it goes from the cab which is 5-6 feet back from the grill. I will need to extend a few of my wires but it was worth it.

2. Got the drivers side front section of the dog house completed. Still need to get the panel cut of the passenger side then make the hinged front cover.

3. I had gotten this from a buddy, (not sure he wants it advertised yet) and polished a piece of aluminum to set it off a bit. The reflection of the ceiling and cabinet above really show up in it!

I am going to paint the border red but didnt have any paint at the time. Also going to paint the van a different color, I just used what I had in the shop.

http://i80.servimg.com/u/f80/16/99/45/46/sign10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=387&u=16994546)

Mbasaraba
05-28-2013, 01:09 PM
Got a good bit done on the van this weekend.

All new steel brake lines are ran. I ran into an issue with the rubber brake hose at the rear end. 1, I couldnt find one to buy so had to order it online this morning, and 2 the steel lines I bought were not the right sized fitting even if I did have a line. All the steel lines are bent and installed though so that is a plus.

Also got the U-joints replaced and that was a battle. Noticed the rear seal is leaking a TINY bit on the tranny so going to replace that since it is only a few $$.

My wire harness is out to RD getting modified to be plug up ready so that is money well spent, he is a great for offering to do it.

Got my fuel tank dropped and I am prepping mounts for my new tank. Need to order the fuel line and fuel pump this week. Hopefully by end of month I will have it fired up and ready for exhaust.

Vanner68
05-28-2013, 01:13 PM
I was beginning to think you dropped off the Earth...

Mbasaraba
05-28-2013, 01:25 PM
I was beginning to think you dropped off the Earth...

No such luck bro, still here...

Getting plans together to build us a 2 person camper with outside flip up galley for when we come to van events. Built and dimensioned my plans and ordered a trailer bed with axle and springs rated at 2000 lbs.

Wanted to go with a "Vintage Look" and will paint to match the van colors. When I get the trailer frame together I will run to town and get the rest of the supplies. Still making a list and buying small things like lights and switches and wiring on eBay.

8509

sandyvan
05-28-2013, 03:09 PM
Have you checked out the forums and blogs on DIY Teardrop trailers? They are a crazier bunch than early vanners. You can make it any shape you want, why not a box with a slanted front to match the shape of a 1st Gen Chevy van??? You could still have a rear opening galley...

You probably need this part to connect up your single rear line to the rubber hose: CarQuest 258340 Edelmann Brass Fitting - did you check out the long thread by Didater on Vintage-Vans???

Mbasaraba
05-28-2013, 04:09 PM
I joined the forum at TnTTT.com where they do a lot of their own builds. I thought about trying to copy the nose of a 1st Gen and then thought I am already DRIVING a brick, dont know if I want to PULL one too. LoL

The camper isnt that big, 72 inches wide, 10 feet long and 60 inches tall. I am going to either find a boat trailer to use the axle or buy the 5x8 trailer from Northern Tool that is rated at 2000 lbs as my base to start from.

I am part of that discussion on VV, and the last posts are about this issue. I got it solved and we got new part numbers added to the discussion so hopefully someone else doesnt run into the same issue.

Optik
05-28-2013, 04:53 PM
Thanks for posting the info on the rear brake parts , well noted!!

planetvear
05-28-2013, 07:17 PM
RD is a good man.

sandyvan
05-28-2013, 09:40 PM
I joined the forum at TnTTT.com where they do a lot of their own builds. I thought about trying to copy the nose of a 1st Gen and then thought I am already DRIVING a brick, dont know if I want to PULL one too. LoL



I was thinking the same thing but I think a lot of trailers were designed as a teardrop because they were towed by a low car. In our case, think of two semi trucks drafting on each other! A smaller box behind the big one might even create LESS turbulence. Plus, your trailer will be truly unique! Actually, I'll probably never get to building one myself, I just want someone else to do it so I can see how it looks! LOL

Mbasaraba
05-28-2013, 10:07 PM
Hmm cut the nose off your van and ship it to me and I will have a good place to start! LoL

Just kidding... but if I could find the nose off a 1st Gen I would try it.

Mostly we just want a vintage looking camper that is easy to pull and the two of us can do some "Boom Boom Pow" without people looking in the windows... Lol Tammy about to slap me...

Wookee
05-29-2013, 11:04 AM
the tear drops just look "right" behind our vans.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m199/wookeesvan/VCVC%20%20photos/earlysportvanandteardropcamper.jpg (http://s104.photobucket.com/user/wookeesvan/media/VCVC%20%20photos/earlysportvanandteardropcamper.jpg.html)

This one in the picture is a larger modle.They alss made smaller ons.
Just big enough for two people to sleep and bump uglies in

Building it your self you can do the retro shape then add some newer materials .......

......Wookee.

Mbasaraba
05-29-2013, 11:14 AM
the tear drops just look "right" behind our vans.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m199/wookeesvan/VCVC%20%20photos/earlysportvanandteardropcamper.jpg (http://s104.photobucket.com/user/wookeesvan/media/VCVC%20%20photos/earlysportvanandteardropcamper.jpg.html)

This one in the picture is a larger modle.They alss made smaller ons.
Just big enough for two people to sleep and bump uglies in

Building it your self you can do the retro shape then add some newer materials .......

......Wookee.

Dang that is a SWEET Sporty too! Awesome Combo!

sandyvan
05-29-2013, 04:10 PM
Hmm cut the nose off your van and ship it to me and I will have a good place to start! LoL

Just kidding... but if I could find the nose off a 1st Gen I would try it.

Mostly we just want a vintage looking camper that is easy to pull and the two of us can do some "Boom Boom Pow" without people looking in the windows... Lol Tammy about to slap me...

Using a donor van to make into a travel trailer is another daydream of mine...

Be careful with that BBP or you'll need a bigger trailer!

Wookee
05-29-2013, 04:16 PM
Curtains work real well for making you "Romper Room" more private..........

.......Wookee

Mbasaraba
05-29-2013, 04:31 PM
Curtains work real well for making you "Romper Room" more private..........

.......Wookee

Rofl!

I had her in the back seat of a Buick sedan rental years ago and that was a disaster! Enough said... Dont think the vehicle is the place for us...LOL

****This subject has REALLY gone south...****

Optik
05-29-2013, 07:39 PM
If the vans gonna be rockin, make sure your suspension is "lubed" pretty well. Otherwise the creaking and squeaking leaf springs are gonna let EVERYone know what you are doing. Oh, and set the e-brake just in case you knock it out of park. Trust me, these are all thing you wish you thought of before the need "arises".

BILLS66
05-29-2013, 07:47 PM
Tim thank you for reminding me , Yes that little squeak gets noisy at times hehehe. Bill

panelmanrd
05-29-2013, 09:54 PM
make sure you take the cb antenna off you can see those moving in the trees for
a long way away, especially if you have a flag on it.

65campervan
05-29-2013, 11:54 PM
I carry 4 small scissor type jacks with me . One between the leaf spring and the bump stop at each corner. Also good for a little bit of leveling too. With all four in there you can't shake it enough to notice.8549

Mbasaraba
06-02-2013, 04:02 PM
The rubber brake line came from RockAuto on Friday. Got it installed and all the fittings tightened up. Ready to add fluid. Going to need to look for some type of brake line clamping to secure all that line running around.

Today I got the last side piece for the front section of my DH/Tunnel finished. Welded my seams between the sheets of aluminum. Going to let it cool then I will sand them smooth. I hate welding 5051 aluminum but this is what I have a large quantity of and it was pretty much free so using it. Thought the seam turned out pretty good even with having to stagger my welding to prevent warping AND dealing with a lead on my spool gun that doesnt reach real well. I barely have enough lead to turn the gun perpendicular to the surface. I need to make an extension for my 220 plug but just havent done it.

My weld helmet is a HF blue light special I had to get after my youngest boy decided to transport water in my $200 helmet. The lens on this one sucks and was hard to see the entire time. I had to go by feel and I ran off course a couple of times. God I love kids... LoL

8673

Mbasaraba
06-03-2013, 06:58 AM
Looks like I might be in a bit of trouble. I googled the belt diagram, looks like I might be missing an idler... I might see about getting regular mounting and get rid of that huge plate on the front of the motor but I would need to replace all pullies for V-belts and not sure what that will do to all the alignments.

Vanner68
06-03-2013, 07:52 AM
If you go v belt, you need to change the water pump. Serpentine drive water pump is reverse rotation.

Mbasaraba
06-03-2013, 08:09 AM
Well that sucks since I just replaced the damn thing.

I am going to search the shop for an orphan idler first...

Vanner68
06-03-2013, 08:41 AM
'Little Orphan Idler'....


Tomorrow! Tomorrow!

I'll finish

Tomorrow!

It's always a day away......

Mbasaraba
06-03-2013, 08:59 AM
Lol on a Monday bro? Too early for this. :P

When you going to be in Bama next? Think we need to crack a few beers...

Vanner68
06-03-2013, 10:14 AM
Lol on a Monday bro? Too early for this. :P

When you going to be in Bama next? Think we need to crack a few beers...

I think I have something coming up in Georgia in the next month. That's about as close as I'll be for a while. Probably could make a side trip then.

Vanfool
07-02-2013, 08:02 PM
Great job,dont know if anyone else is trying to get the money for this, but I am !!! I just got one last week , I think the guy next door to me may want this...

Mbasaraba
07-08-2013, 09:10 AM
Finally got my water pump pulley mounted the way I want and the serpentine belt on. I only have about 3/4" clearance between the pulley and my electric fans, tight fit!

Got the wire harness attached to the motor. I have a few wires to connect to the EZ-Wiring harness I installed. Thanks to RD for the help with my TBI harness, couldnt have done it without him.

Still working on my aluminum mag rims I got. It rained for 4 days straight and was a miserable 4th weekend. I took Friday off, what a waste of a vacation day.

Not going to be able to do much the next month or so since I will be doing the contract work to subsidize the hospice and medication treatment for Tammy's mom. Going to start looking at my gas tank options since that is about the last thing on the list before I can start the van.

Charles Linsenbarth
07-08-2013, 10:57 AM
Good for You! I like it when a plan comes together!
Charley

Mbasaraba
09-09-2013, 09:48 AM
Small update I guess.

I pulled the old fuel tank and got the cross brace removed to move forward. Got my new 22 gallon tank ready, installed the sender/pump assembly and laid it under the van. I need to get the high pressure lines and figure what the 2 low pressure hoses on the sending unit are for before I life it up into place to get it ready to mount.

On a side note, if you ever want to find out how much dirt and junk are in the frame of the van, just use an air chisel on the bottom and LET IT RAIN! My wife laughed when she seen me after removing the cross member spot welds. Lord help me!! LoL

Mbasaraba
09-09-2013, 10:24 AM
Since I shared her mom's condition I thought I would give an update on that.

We went to see her Saturday and it is nearing the end. I know it will be a huge heart break for the family but for me seeing her in that pain is more so than the peace she will find after. I watched my grandmother die of cancer in my house and it was not the same woman I spent my childhood fishing and hiking with. Luckily we have been able to make her some what comfortable but it has been a huge under taking all I have taken on with the whole thing.

Optik
09-09-2013, 12:10 PM
Since I shared her mom's condition I thought I would give an update on that.

We went to see her Saturday and it is nearing the end. I know it will be a huge heart break for the family but for me seeing her in that pain is more so than the peace she will find after. I watched my grandmother die of cancer in my house and it was not the same woman I spent my childhood fishing and hiking with. Luckily we have been able to make her some what comfortable but it has been a huge under taking all I have taken on with the whole thing.

Sometimes the end can't come quickly enough. Pain and suffering are never easy things to watch a loved one go through. I hope that she has found peace in her life to this point and will not be afraid to move forward to the next phase. I know this may sound a little harsh but I believe that suffering is something that should only be reserved for those evil people who bring it on others through their actions. I know this is not your situation so I hope and pray for all of you that these final weeks/days/hours may be ones in which you remember and celebrate the love and happiness that she surely brought into this world for you all. My prayers are with you and your family in this time and I hope for you and your wife to find the strength to carry on. I too have watched loved ones succumb to this horrible disease and it is always heart-wrenching. please know that I'm here if you need anything that I can give.
-Tim

Mbasaraba
09-12-2013, 09:18 AM
Thanks Tim.

I feel she is in the same boat, just ready for it to be done with. I dont think no matter how accepting we are of our situation or how secure we feel in our beliefs there is always a touch of fear when the day comes but she is dealing with it well and we got all the fear and sorrow out of the way the first week so that we could move on and enjoy the time left without all that BS.

We got her settled in last night and will be able to go see her every day for the next 5 days since she is only 10 minutes away instead of 90 minutes away where she lives.

Back to the Van... got the wiring ran for the sender/pump for the tank last night. Going to make some spacers to match up to the tank/bottom of van so it dont smash the lines. I cut strips of aluminum out of panels (.030 thick) I had and notched them to fit in the old tank strap slots. I need to weld the strips together since the sheets I had were only 24 inches long and get some bolts for tightening the straps in place.

I have a roll of Bailer Belt that I will cut strips out of to put between the straps and tank. I have some 1/4 inch thick cork/rubber sheets scrap I got from work I will be cutting to insulate the tank/spacers from the body.

Still need to get some HP fuel line and fuel filter. Think I will go with a metal inline filter, but not sure if that is the best option or not.

Mbasaraba
09-30-2013, 10:07 AM
Got the new fuel tank in, just need to get the holding straps finished. New lines bent and installed. Modified the fuel filler to go from the original size to 1.75". Need to finish welding the cross brace in.

Going to change the radiator hoses. The more I think about those metal bendable lines the less I like them so I am going to change them. If I have to I will use 90* metal elbows with a couple of pieces of straight hose till I can find something better.

At this point I just want the van started! It has been sitting too long without running. As soon as I get it started will take it in and get exhaust installed then I can finish building the dog house.

Mbasaraba
10-27-2013, 02:51 PM
Tank is all finalized. Got all the wiring hooked up to the rear tail lights.

I started to wire the new column but there are so many wires I am not sure which goes where. I am not sure if the color coding is the same with my EZ Wiring kit Green Flash to Green wire on column harness. I did find that one of the plugs from the EZ harness plugged into the dimmer switch for the headlights so that was a huge plus!

Anyone dealt with a 1992 Chevy wiring before? Here are the 2 plugs that SHOULD be what I need.

http://i57.servimg.com/u/f57/16/99/45/46/wire310.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=435&u=16994546)

Mbasaraba
11-03-2013, 11:02 AM
RD cleared up what the wires from previous post are for so I am getting them all hooked up.

I have a question about relays and switches, Hopefully Gregg can help with or anyone with wiring skills.

Currently I want to run a push button start system but I dont want it on all the time and dont want to use the key. I want to hook up a toggle switch that is UNDER the dash unseen, flip the switch and power is turned on to the fuse box. I dont want to fry the toggle since most are low amp rated so I thought about a relay. I am no electrical engineer so need a little help with this.

I have a 30a relay but that will be TOO small RD told me, thinking I can use this for the headlights or is it too small for that also? Again using a toggle to the relay.

The relay I have now has 4 wires. Green, and White small wires, I guess one of these hook to the toggle somehow and the other is ground? Red and dark blue big wires, **not sure which color does what** power in (wire coming from the fuse box "Head Lights Power) and power out (to actually send power to the headlights). As I understand there is no power till the toggle is flipped which actually powers the relay closing the circuit to allow the red and blue to make contact.

If this relay wont work for headlights either, what size will I need for that? Looking at the headlight wires there is no relay in the wires. I looked for "Head Light Switch" wires but dont see any of these either, just a wire that says "HeadLight Power".

How big of a relay do I need for the main power?

digz
11-03-2013, 11:09 AM
Everything on the van is running thru the fusebox? Is there just 1 feed to the box and if so what size wire is it?
Here is a useful link. http://www.hotrodsandclassics.net/usefulinformation/wireandfusequide.htm

Mbasaraba
11-03-2013, 12:17 PM
Well I have the wire harness from the 1991, there is one big red wire I have hooked up to the starter and 2 to the alternator. All the other wires are coming from the fuse box. I found another plug that wasnt hooked up and RD said it is the "Fuel Pump Relay". I had ran the wire from the fuse box labeled fuel pump back to the fuel pump but now I dont think I can do that. I need to buy a relay and put it in this plug but not sure what the little red wire is for. There is a grey wire he has labeled as Fuel pump and I am now thinking this comes out of this relay so I will need to cut it from the fuse box and splice it from this wire.

11897

All the wires for everything are coming out of the fuse box but NOTHING is hooked up except the fuel pump and fuel sending unit. I have all the wires ran to their locations but havent hooked anything up. I think all the regular lights and such can run off the wires but I am not sure how to hook up to turn the lights on thats why I wanted to understand how to hook a relay up.

Mbasaraba
11-03-2013, 02:44 PM
Ordered my gauges today.

http://www.ezwiring.com/sgauges.html

Z-Machine (aka VanZack)
11-05-2013, 12:25 AM
Basic relay wiring.

11943

Hope it helps.

Mbasaraba
11-05-2013, 03:04 AM
Thanks Zack. I found a few sites with some good info and watched a few YouTube videos also. I ordered the relays I need along with a few other odds and ends.

On a different note, I had shared my mother in laws story a while back. At 1:51 this morning she took her last breath and is finally done with the pain. Tammy is grieving but we also have a sense of relief that she is at peace now.

planetvear
11-05-2013, 06:02 AM
we are truly sorry to hear this news matt.

pan58head
11-05-2013, 06:23 AM
Matt that plug is a gm fuel pump relay plug which you know, you can just use a regular relay. The extra red wire is a jumper wire to check if the fuel pump is good or bad, kind of a cool thing that GM did this wire is not needed. What are you using to run the fuel injected motor(harness ?)

Mbasaraba
11-05-2013, 06:46 AM
Yeah RD explained to me what the were, I bought the fuel relay and have it plugged in.

Just waiting for the other relays I ordered to get here (tracking number shows Thursday) and I will start with the dash wiring. My gauges are supposed to be here tomorrow and I will get them mounted in my bowtie gauge panel I made just for her van. I made 2 of them so I am going to make it "3D" with a 1 inch gap between the layers and have LEDs between the layers.

Here is the layout of her panel, one of a kind. I still need to get some green LEDs for the turn signals and a blue one for the high beam. I need to look over on V-V where a guy had bought some really nice ones for a panel I made him for his Ford, Stunomi or something like that I think

11953

I have the original wire harness and all the plug in modules. It has been slightly modified by someone that knows what he is doing. LoL

panelmanrd
11-05-2013, 10:41 AM
google led indicator lights, some neat ones out there.

Optik
11-05-2013, 12:16 PM
Thanks Zack. I found a few sites with some good info and watched a few YouTube videos also. I ordered the relays I need along with a few other odds and ends. On a different note, I had shared my mother in laws story a while back. At 1:51 this morning she took her last breath and is finally done with the pain. Tammy is grieving but we also have a sense of relief that she is at peace now.

Sorry to hear this Matt. My prayers are with you guys but it's good that she is in a much better place. I'm sorry for your's and especially Tammy's loss.

Mbasaraba
11-06-2013, 04:52 PM
Thanks Tim, much appreciated bro!

Got my Shark gauges in today from EZ Wiring. The peripherals all fit great but the speedo hole is a bit small. I originally cut it for Autometer gauges, which is a bit smaller in diameter, but these Sharks were only $269 for all 6. I will be mounting the tach in the DH for tuning purposes.

I mounted them in the Bow Tie dash panel I made just to see how they fit, I still need to polish it to a mirror finish but need to open up that speedo hole a bit at work with the Haas.


Ooooooo..... Ahhhhh..... Me likes it lots!!!

11972

I didnt think of it till I was looking through the box and their was a fuel sender replacement. I sure hope it is the right ohm.....

panelmanrd
11-06-2013, 05:56 PM
nice tie

planetvear
11-07-2013, 07:45 AM
very nice!

Mbasaraba
11-08-2013, 09:44 AM
I got the gauge panel modified yesterday to house the speedometer. I will get the panels sanded and polished this weekend. (Will get a picture of it all together when it is done)

Found some LED Indicators I like. I ordered 1 blue, 2 green and 4 amber (the amber will go between the 1st and 2nd layer for ambient lighting.

12031

My relays showed up today so I can get started laying out how I am going to run all the remaining wiring.

Mbasaraba
11-10-2013, 01:18 PM
Polished and gauges installed. Need my LEDs to get here to finish it up.

12058

Mbasaraba
11-10-2013, 03:08 PM
Welded up the original gauge hole.

http://i57.servimg.com/u/f57/16/99/45/46/img_2011.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=439&u=16994546)

Was going to wire up my NEW light switch, only issue, no schematic. Anyone know what goes where on these??

http://i57.servimg.com/u/f57/16/99/45/46/img_2012.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=440&u=16994546)