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View Full Version : Frenched my taillights Today



gregw98
05-10-2004, 09:28 PM
Called in sick today and got myself sunburned. Will make for an interesting day at work tomorrow. Anyway got to screwing around with the back door and decided to "french" my taillights.
greg
http://members.cox.net/gregw98/100_0092.JPG

Vanish
05-10-2004, 09:39 PM
Greg That looks great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
YOU ARE A REAL TALENTED GUY!!!!!
CAN'T WAIT TO SEE YOUR VAN FINISHED.......
VANISH.............

Optik
05-11-2004, 06:43 AM
looks pretty nice! maybe the truck bezels will work now???
-tim

BZ
05-12-2004, 06:39 AM
COOL!!!!!how did you do it? I bought LED light kits and could use a little more space, looked at the tailight housing but could not determine how to get it out with out msjor mods???

------------------
Thanks, Ben
BZ/RZ/NC/66/69ChevyVan

gregw98
05-12-2004, 02:01 PM
BZ,Take everything off the taillight assemblies, You will have to cut off the protection guards from the back of the taillights buckets. Look at the back of the buckets and you will see that they are just tack welded at the top and bottom of each bucket. But first, inside of the lip where the lens goes, is all seam sealer. Get a wire wheel in there and clean it all out. Now from the inside of the van, use a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut the 2 tack welds. At this point, from the outside, I used a small block of wood and tapped on it and it fell out in the van. The bucket and the hole was wirewheeled inside and out to clean it. I used some Bondo to adhere 4 equal lengths of balsa wood thin strips to the inside of the buckets, top, bottom, left and right. They were about 1/2 inch long. I then carefully put the bucket back on and used some Bondo to glue them in place firmly. They are now about 1/2 deeper than before. I now, on the outside of the van, used masking tape to tape over the gap. Back to the inside, I used some fiberglass mat and applied it to the sides of the bucket and the inside area around the assembly. Let it dry, removed the tape, used Dremel to clean up area and grind out balsa wood, and Bondo-ed to make it smooth, and handsanded my butt off some more.
Hope this is clear enough. If not call me tonight at home.
greg
504-488-9438

[This message has been edited by gregw98 (edited May 12, 2004).]

hotdog
05-12-2004, 09:44 PM
Greg,your the best,"that looks great,what a nice job........Duncan

gregw98
05-12-2004, 09:51 PM
Thanks, Check your email Hotdog.
greg

chevy van 5150
05-13-2004, 10:12 AM
Looks cool greg, I like it

fustkarr
05-13-2004, 05:06 PM
Looks very clean, did you use a spraybomb or a gun? Just a thought, my brother used to cut up tin cans and solder them[used a propane torch] in place of rusted out body panels. This was a warm-up for his Jag project but he kept this "4Hole Buick Delux" for 3/4 years without a return of the rust.I did a few corners for him and it was real easy, the solder[just plain old rosin core] was easy to sand and rustproof.
Gooluk,Randy

gregw98
05-13-2004, 05:20 PM
"Rattle can" primer for temporary patch. But I bought a gallon of grey primer this week.
greg

fustkarr
05-13-2004, 07:28 PM
Thanks 4 gettin back, what i was interested in was recommendations on a "touch-up" gun, don't think i'll be painting it myself[at least no time soon] butthere will be many many repairs b4 that happens and i'd like to keep the profile low, not a lot of red/gray spots of primer. Dont mind using rattle can, but if theres a gun thats easy to clean, ive already got the aircompressor. This way i can identify the paint.
Thanks, Randy

gregw98
05-13-2004, 07:52 PM
Get you a cheapy touch up gun from Harbor Freight or on Ebay. Usually good for small jobs like jams and primering small stuff. About $29.00. But for the overall job, I would not recommend a cheap gun.
greg