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fustkarr
05-22-2007, 04:57 PM
Lookin to see if anyone has had experience w/EMP-Stewart electric waterpumps.This would be the type that go inline, not mount on the frt. of the block. Summit # EMP-e389A-r34.. At this point i'm just exploring options and it looks like this one may solve a number of problems. Actually anyone who has had experience w/electric water pumps/remote water pumps. I've not run these b4 and i'm trying to get a handle on what to expect.
Thanks, Randy

TurboVan
05-22-2007, 10:05 PM
I heard they are OK for short bursts followed by a cooldown, like drag racing, but are not adequate for sustained high speeds like freeway, and especially towing, cause there's not enough volume. Probably good for stop and go traffic, tho...but don't take my word for it, get more info.

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fustkarr
05-23-2007, 05:53 PM
Thats what i thought but after looking at the specs, i found that the standard edelbrock W/P delivers between 15 and 37 GPM at 2 to 5K RPMs. While the electric waterpump {EMP} delivers 55 gpm and has a projected life of 10K hrs... My van will have the engine behind the drivers compartment but the radiator laid down in frount of the grill, on top of the lovered lower shield but under the floor. The water will have to travel approx. 7 feet there and 7 feet back plus rise approx. 2 feet. Having never done this B4 i'm asking questions B4 i throw money at the problem{if there is one, the stocker may do the job no sweat}.Also the engine/trans setback is dependant on the 5th link on the vette RE, if i run otta room i may need 3or 4" that the waterpump takes up. Any imput is appreciated, automotive or marine even. I'm just curious about what it takes to move water this far w/o incuring other problems.
Thanks, Randy

oo3
05-23-2007, 08:46 PM
i would think a stock would be ok - a fiero pumped from back of car to front etc on a regular pump - sorry i dont have any facts or specs to back that up however - oo3

TurboVan
05-23-2007, 10:16 PM
I stand corrected. But the stock pump will work just fine, as in Panteras. The only thing I'm concerned about is the radiator position, I tried that once a long time ago, it didn't work. High in front and low in back would be ideal, thermodynamically, but that way wouldn't fit under the floor. How about low in front and high in back (kind of like a 'Vette), that way it would still be laid down, but it would take advantage of the natural front-to-back airflow thru the d/h. I think this is critical. Then use a puller fan underneath it. Only problem with this is a scoop would not be very effective with this config. I don't know..........

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planetvear
05-24-2007, 04:30 AM
i would also need to question the "elevation" of the radiator verses the elevation of the water pump. i am not sure if the stock pump would need to work with a flooded suction or if it has a suction-lift capacity. pretty much any rear-engined/front-radiator car (or any car for that matter) i can think of has the radiator placed within the same relative plane as the water pump.
another case in point might be the engineered use and addition of a second water pump on something like a mercruiser boat sterndrive. i am not sure why the second (raw water) pump is added to the powerplant but it might be because the engines pump may not provide enough flow for cooling. don't know for sure just throwing it out there.
lastly i'm pretty sure if you lay the radiator down, you are not going to get the cooling you'll need. i built a 39 buick hotrod a number of years ago and laid the radiator back to clear the forward part of the narrow cowl. the final angle was about 45 degrees. the engine tended to run hot because airflow would deflect off the angled fins and not actually pass through the cooling fins. an electric fan helped, but the car alwats ran hot. if you lay your radiator down, you will not get the benefit of the free air flowing through it at highway speeds. i'll bet that highway wind flowing around the electric fan would stall the fan anyway. you may argue that corvettes have a "laid back" design which works. lots of engineering went into that layout. if you look at a corvette, the radiator is sealed at the sides and air is forced to go through the radiator (through a semi-vertical angle) because it has nowhere else to go.
how about a couple of smaller/shorter radiators in a vertical position. the ferrari 512TR has 2, 1 each in front of each rear tire. it seems to me that there might be some room in front of the front tires that might be used, or maybe in the void area behind the rocker panel a la testarossa.
take this all with a grain of salt but i thought it would be worth chiming in with some thoughts. best of luck to you, john

fustkarr
05-24-2007, 05:34 PM
Briefly {because untill i actually get to this part i'm in the dark} the plan is to build a tunnel formed by the vette rails and the G10 rails {this is where you use imagination}. The vette frame pinches down just behind {frt to rear} the frt wheels & the the G10 rails will not fit between them from there forward.So, the plan is to swap the rails from under the van to on top of the floor pan, from just behind the frt wheels {just behind the driver} to the toe board. This will form a tunnel and the foundation for a center consol.The doghouse goes along w/the seats and the heater.Its a little hard to visualize but repeated measurments show it will fit. The suction/pushing {for lack of a better term} of the waterpump shouldn't be a factor as if the system is bled corectly it should be doing both at the same time. The multiple radiators had crossed my mind but b4 i break out the bucket-o-money i'd like to go for a off the shelf solution. The one thing that bugs me about shows like Overhauling/American Hotrod etc. is the problems seem to be solved by pen.......as in throw money at it{or write a check}.I might feel different if a had more money but i don't and frankly i don't wanna be lumped in w/guys whoose only demonstrated talent is the ability to operate a checkbook. Don't misunderstand me, these guys {Boyd-Foose} build incredible cars and i'd like to have one but it just wouldn't mean anywhere near as much as doing it myself.I've worked a long time to arrive at this situation {a paid for machine/weld/sheetmetal shop, a sufficent degree of talent the time money and desire and a plan} and i don't want people to think that i've got this slick van {i hope} because i was successful at real estate. Theres nothing wrong with being successful at anything but i'm a machinest and have worked long and hard to become skilled at the trade and i'd like people to recoginise that fact. If they don't ....well, its my dream, i'd do it with or without any kudos. Thus, the desire to do the job right and look good doin' it.......Once again, thanks to all who voiced their experiences and i welcome any imput from any source.
Randy

TurboVan
05-24-2007, 10:00 PM
I agree, the relative position of the components doesn't matter if everything is flooded at once.

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