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68chevyboy
05-18-2001, 08:24 PM
well, im back and im starting to work on the van again. i actually got some things accomplished today, and im kinda proud. i rebuilt the heater unit, got the seized fan to work by lots of twisting and spinning then i hooked it to a car battery. i got the seized flappers to work, and i cleaned out the heater core and checked for leaks. i painted the box satin black, and i painted the fan, the plug and a few other things bright silver. i finished it off with new chrome sheetmetal screws. its so drop dead goregous that it makes your mouth water. (i did it myself too!) i went through the wiring and labeled half of it and im slowly but surely finishing it, and have made a diagram and im trying to finsh it by myself too. i got a new fuse block and a pack of fuses to put in it too. when im finished i will put it back in along with the heater.

heres the vanners survey:
im trying to decide a color but i am torn between two. when i finish it, it will have lots of chrome, sportvan chrome and whatever i can get chromed. it will have chrome smoothies, and some fat juicy blackwall tires. i am going to paint it:sportvan red and white, or competition orange i love them both. which one?
keep on truckin'

[This message has been edited by 68chevyboy (edited May 18, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by 68chevyboy (edited May 18, 2001).]

MoonJoe
05-19-2001, 09:23 AM
I vote red & white, classic sixties colors!!

tonye66
05-19-2001, 03:47 PM
I say the three primary colors..............primer red, primer grey, and primer black. Those are the three colors of my van.

Tony

68chevyboy
05-19-2001, 05:44 PM
he,he, wont go into the colors on my van right now http://www.vcvc.org/ubb/biggrin.gif put up the heater today, and its waiting to be installed, and i rebuilt and repainted my intsrument cluster today, and its beautiful.(cheap too.) i started back on the wiring again today, and found out what pretty much everything was. i put it on plywood, taped it down and labled each plug, and loose wire, light bulb, switch, etc. i made my own diagram and figured out which wires were what, and where they go on the old fuse box. my problem is, the old fuse box has incorrect fuses, hacked up wiring, and only two or three wires are connected to it. i bought a new, very simple fuse block from napa,(the universal kind) to put in it.
i have been left clueless as to which wires on the old fuse block go to however many amp fuses on it. the old one isnt labled and isnt correct, so i have to know how to hook up the old one before i can install the new one. my haynes manual doesnt label the fuses in the wiring diagram so i am lost. can anybody help me? ---keep the color votes coming. keep on truckin', and thanks again.

gotavan
05-19-2001, 09:46 PM
I got some wire trouble also , the 64 GMC I'm workin on has the colum wires all cut off and somebody put 2 toggle switches on the dash for the turn signals its a mess under the dash they used masking tape on the wires! Can you say fire hazzerd..I think they honked the horn by flashing a alligator clip on the dash . As for the color its lt.green, brown where they ground off the old TV repair name,and red white blue side doors off my old mail van. I think its gonna be flat black primer, it'll be hotter n hell in there sauna on wheels.Dan

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gotavan

Vanner68
05-19-2001, 10:20 PM
Hey- I'M doing orange on my 70! Eventually.
Fuses- Brake lights need to be hot all the time, Ignition hot only when key is on, all else can be hot in on or acc position. If you don't have an acc position on your ignition switch, then everything but the brake lights on the ign sw line.

tomschaner
05-20-2001, 04:58 AM
why don't you guys with the wiring problems go to the download page and upload a wiring diagram.a picture is definitely worth a thousand words when it comes to wiring.i should know i work on aircraft wiring.later tom,

gotavan
05-20-2001, 11:48 PM
I have the wire diagrams, but what I need is a female plug receptacle for the neutral safety switch/backup lights pig tail coming off 66 powerglide. Dan

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gotavan

68chevyboy
05-21-2001, 02:04 PM
im going to try to get acrobat reader so i can download the schematics. do they have the fuse amperage labeled?

smiley
05-21-2001, 02:21 PM
I believe the amerage is listed, but I'm not positive (don't have them in front of me). There's a link on the download page directly to the Acrobat Reader download.

Vanner68
05-21-2001, 04:25 PM
Of course, if your wiring is EXTREMELY hacked up, even the best wiring diagram is of little use. Except maybe as a guide to start over fresh. Ya oughtta see some of the hacked up press wiring I fix up, and that stuff all uses the SAME color wire for control circuits, with little number tapes to indentify the wire. When they fall off, it's get the old ohm meter out and start tracin......

68chevyboy
05-21-2001, 04:49 PM
if i got a new fuse box, would it be labeled? and will it cost an arm and a leg?

SurfCat
05-24-2001, 11:39 AM
hey, does anyone know if the 65 wiring diagram works for a 64 handi-van?
thanks,
Surfcat

smiley
05-24-2001, 01:46 PM
Chevyboy, Painless Wiring will make a block and harness for you. You'd need to send then a copy of your wiring diagram. They are NOT cheap however.

Surfcat, that '65 wiring diagram will indeed work for your '64 Handivan.

[This message has been edited by smiley (edited May 24, 2001).]

68chevyboy
05-29-2001, 09:14 AM
i looked at painless' site and i liked the harnesses, but they were a bit expensive. im going to try my hardest to fix it, but i cant i will order the street rod kit. schools out and im going to get a better job and then ill really have the cash coming. http://www.vcvc.org/ubb/biggrin.gif keep on truckin' b.t.w. guess what i saw at a car show two days ago- an old corvair truck with a v8 in the bed right behind the cab the only van there was a dorky lowrider astro, but at least it was a chevy.

68chevyboy
05-29-2001, 11:11 AM
i got the schematics downloaded and printed out. theyre great! -what do the flashers on the fuse box look like? i think mine are missing. also, the schematics show the fuses, but doesnt label them. does anyone know how many amps they are?

68chevyboy
06-05-2001, 10:10 PM
i pretty much figured out the wires, so now i am going to finish the front"clip" and get it where i can put the wires and the windsheild in.-to trash the dash or not to trash the dash-that, is the question. it has large rustholes in it and is dented up, but its welded in. how hard is it to replace it? are there alignment tabs or anything that i dont see that will line it up when i weld it back, or is it just up there? and will an earlier dash fit?

68chevyboy
06-05-2001, 10:12 PM
B.T.W.-you guys have lots of fun at the rally! take lots of pictures and put them on the site.

gotavan
06-06-2001, 12:05 AM
I got my wiring replaced, used harness from the van that the roof blew off. I'm glad I pulled the old wires out of the door post there were bare wires and more masking tape instead of taking the plugs off they cut the wire. All back good as new now. There will be no painting this week. If I make it to the rally it will definatly be the uglyest van. Dan

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gotavan

painterchris
06-06-2001, 12:01 PM
Hey Chevyboy,
You can replace any panel in the van. Some are just more diffucult than others. All panels are spot welded together. The process for removing them is the same, no matter which panel you do. Use a large drill bit (3/8") to drill thru the spot welds. Try to only drill through the layer of metal that you are removing, not through the part of the seam that you want to keep. Use a chisel or nail puller to pull the seam apart after you have drilled out the spot weld. If the spot welds are tough to reach, then you need to use a grinder to grind them out. Usually, the panel that you remove ends up getting hacked into little pieces so that you can get it out without damaging the seam. Obviously then, you need a replacement part. If you can find a decent one at a junkyard, have them torch it out, leaving as much excess metal as you can get. Then repeat the process of drilling out the spot welds and splitting the seam. Only difference is that this time, you are trying to preserve the other half of the seam. Clean both sides of the seams down to shiny bare metal. Then, line them up, clamp them together and spot weld it in place. Just like the original, only a hell of a lot more work. I'm not sure I explained this very well, but it's the process I followed to replace the entire roof on my 64 last summer.
Good Luck,
Andy.

68chevyboy
06-07-2001, 07:12 AM
so i could probably use marks(scratches) around it and use where i drilled as a guide. now i just have to find a good dash. that should be fairly easy. dan, how did your roof blow off? chris, how long did it take you to do the whole roof?

gotavan
06-07-2001, 09:26 AM
How did my roof blow off? It was windy that day! I got a 64 GMC from junkyard trailering it home I noticed the roof bouncing in the back, when I got it unloaded I took a look yep rusted across the back. I wanted it for parts anyway, so I put in a battery and got it running it had a couple plug wires switched around, but it ran I drove around the yard happy as a $100. van. I parked it out back of my pole barn so my wife wouldn't notice another van. Well May 31st ,I think it was 1998 we had a giant windstorm it blew down the neighbors trees and some barns near here. When I went out to check on stuff I found the roof off that van behind my old barn 200 feet away! Of course I had to drive around the yard again topless just the bows across. Man this would be fun in a parade a bunch of people standing in back. Well I wired the roof back on and started robbing parts off it, I used the exhaust pipe on my 67 it still had the stickers on it. Dan

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gotavan

painterchris
06-08-2001, 07:53 AM
Hey,
The key to doing this is that you are just trying to recreate the same spot-welded seam that the van had from the factory. So, the trick is to remove all of the metal that you don't need from the van and all of the metal you don't need from the replacement panel. Then, line it up and spot weld it, just like the factory did. My roof took me about 3 long days of work with a drill, grinder and spot welder.

Is your windshield rim rusted out? if it is, that will require a lot more work to replace. Chances are, you'll have to get a professional body man to do that. While he's doing that stuff, he may be able to do the dash for a reasonable price.

Good luck,
Andy.

68chevyboy
06-08-2001, 09:49 AM
well, i have to keep this on a tight budget,(minimum wage) so i cant afford a bodyman, and my windshield is rusted out. i am going to put metal behind some of the holes and tack it in. when im done filling the big holes, i will por-15 it, (i hate to say this) but im going to glass in the rest, then sand it, and spray some self etching gray primer on it. it should work until i can do it right some day. hopefully i will find a van in the scrapyard that is solid enough that the dash will be good all the way to the windsheild. will a 64-66 dash fit dimensionally?

68chevyboy
06-08-2001, 09:53 AM
gotta love those windstorms! what luck. use it as a truck. that would be cool. i assume the roof is no good anymore though, right?

gotavan
06-08-2001, 11:31 AM
That roof is toast. That van was a parts chaser for the GMC dealer when they quit useing it they parked it under a tree and used it for storage for 20 years. When they moved acoss the street they had it towed to the junkyard, they tore off the front bumper trying to uproot it. I think being under that tree killed the roof the gutters clogged and the rustmites took over. Chris only 3 days to change a roof! It would take me three days to find my tools. I have a new drivers side 1/4 panel hanging in my shed and being a tool and die maker I'm amazed at the size of those panels along with the roof and floor some big tooling to make those.Dan

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gotavan

68chevyboy
06-10-2001, 10:03 PM
im half delirious from heat exhaustion-still http://www.vcvc.org/ubb/biggrin.gif. today i spent from 8:30 to 8:30 working on the van. i worked on the front today, and with a grinder and a wire brush i cut through the many layers of insolent teenage graffiti all the way to the metal.ground every inth of rust off and i sanded any paint left. i have the typical headlamp crunch syndrome, and i spent a while straightening it out with stepovers bars and c-clamps. pulled some dents, and sanded down the dash. i decide that i diddint want to replace the dash, so im going to just weld up the holes and pull a bondini.asked my dad to lend a finger and helped spread bondo around the windsheild frame. i still have a few holes to weld around the windsheild frame, but its close. yes i know everybody, bondo is a big no-no, but hey im a teenager with not much of a paycheck, and if put on right, it can look and work right for now. i painted the front wall satin black, and it is close to being ready for the wiring. its been about a year since ive heard that engine roar. a tune up and som love and it'll go. I HAVE ONE SMALL PROBLEM:the valve covers used to leak a lot, and the trans leaks like a sieve from every corner, so my exhaust, starter, and trans and the whole back of the motor is SOAKED. certain people who will remain unnamed have told me not to worry about it, but i will NOT let my love burn to nothing after all of this. it will turn over without catching fire last time i tryed , but i am scared to crank it. should I?? and how can i clean it without hurting the starter?? also i can start buying pats from the net now and im shopping around. where can i get two headlamp assemblys, a windsheild, and a set of floor grommets for cheaper than new/junkyard?

buddy holly lives!-keep on keepin'on.



[This message has been edited by 68chevyboy (edited June 10, 2001).]

tonye66
06-11-2001, 12:04 PM
Get about 20 types of different types of degreasers and engine cleaners and scrub the crap out of the engine. No, as long as the starter is bolted up tight, you probably won't hurt it. The Gaskets are cheap (I know from much experience with my van) and they are relatively easy to replace depending on where they are.

Tony

tonye66
06-11-2001, 12:06 PM
Oh yeah, clean the headers and exhaust within an inch of their life. Believe me, that will cause a crapload of stink and smoke the first time you warm it up.

Tony

ahighdiver
06-11-2001, 01:35 PM
Buy a gallon of Castrol Superclean and a quart spray bottle. It works great.

68chevyboy
06-12-2001, 08:43 PM
im glad i can clean the starter up because i really didint want to remove it. as for the engine, i have a superlong scrubrush that i can soak in castrol and ill spray it down with tons of degreaser. i told you guys i had the wiring figured out and i thought i did, but i still have all the fuses mixed up. i downloaded the wiring schematics, and they are great, but they dont have the fuse amperage labeled. so, i sat down with wire strippers, a screwdriver, tape, schematics, and connectors and dug in! two hours later i came out very proud, knowing that i rewired my van myself. i cant help but brag, but it just gave me a warm, fuzzy feeling inside. i replaced the fusebox, and fixed the hideous job the previous owner did. now, i was wondering if anyone knew what the amperages are on the fuses in the wiring schematics on this site are for a 68'??????? please?? also i can buy parts now from the net, and i was wondering if anyone had two whole headlamp assemblies for a 68, a windsheild, and how much? in case you were wondering, im starting out with fixing the front, and then the bottom, and then the rest.

thanks you guys, major props to smiley for makin the site, and my project probably wouldent have even started by now without this site, it provides a lot of inspiration.

smiley
06-13-2001, 09:45 AM
Thanks Chevyboy. Your dedication to your van has proven to be an inspiration to others as well.

tonye66
06-13-2001, 10:17 AM
Hey Chevyboy, You Have inspired me to redo everything on my van seeing as you are right around my age. The van sits in front of my house because I get a ride to work and I now have a company van to use to haul TV's. I am currently trying to fix the taillights, back-up lights, and finish the ignition-to-coil wire. I did get the old license plate light to work. And a thanks to Smiley for an incredible website. If this page didnt exist, I might have not purchased my van.

Tony

[This message has been edited by tonye66 (edited June 13, 2001).]

smiley
06-13-2001, 12:09 PM
Thank you Tony. Without you and all the other early freaks out there this site couldn't have grown into what it is today...and we're just getting started!

68chevyboy
06-13-2001, 09:45 PM
i am glad too see i am not the only kid my age that likes vans. i got my van to run again today! it runs smooth. real smooth. i put the wiring in and fuses that were too large im getting there.
you guys rule.

68chevyboy
06-20-2001, 12:37 PM
lately i havent been able to get on the net or work on the van because ive been putting everything inside or chaining it down, because i keep getting robbed! someone stole a gt dyno racing bike, another one, some tools that were in my van, an 80$ drill that had been used twice and a set of 40$ bits.
i find it kind of hard to beleive. god knows what they took i dont know about. and they stole some of it straight out of the van in the driveway. theyve got guts.

tonye66
06-21-2001, 12:46 PM
Do not, I repeat, Do not store tools in your van! I know too many people who have had their vans/trucks/SUV's stolen just because of what they have in them. I know that you do not live anywhere near me but the crime can be the same in other places. So, put the tools in the basement or the garage. The best place to put your tools is in a few boxes in the garage labeled "knitting". Even put some rolled up string on top of them. I have had my garage broken into a few times and the tools stayed untouched. Unless you have an even better camouflage idea, the knitting box is the best idea.

Tony

[This message has been edited by tonye66 (edited June 21, 2001).]

bakka
06-23-2001, 12:27 AM
I used to work in a camera store and a customer had a great idea to discourage someone stealing his equipment. He kept his cameras in a diaper bag. Nobody takes diaper bags.

68chevyboy
06-23-2001, 08:45 AM
that is a great idea! i wouldent have thought of camoflageing the tools. im gonna try that. if you live in one of the worse neighborhoods, nail a buch of nails into a board and leave them under your windows and cover them with dirt. theyll get the message.

MadElf
06-24-2001, 09:36 PM
Nails at the window? That's pretty mean. I like it!
Of course where I live there are people who would just shoot them and be done with it. Or sic the dogs on them.
My own father swears he once actually waited in ambush in his garage loft and shot someone with rocksalt (loaded in a shotgun shell) for stealing gas from him.
Yes, I might be a redneck!

Vanner68
06-24-2001, 10:03 PM
Only if he said "you got an awful purty mouth" first...

68chevyboy
06-28-2001, 12:32 PM
i hate that movie. hahahahahahahaha!