1966 190 rear seal??

[hotdog]

Hello everyone my van has a rear seal leak,which i,m about to fix with help from my buddy,and i need some help from the forum,he says the rear seals in the older vans use to be something called a rope seal? i though they would be a rubber seal?
i should be able just to drop the stanard tranny and replace it? Any thoughts or advice is greatful, wheres a source for rear seals for a six banger? much thanks ahead of time..........Hotdog

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[Bullet]

Its a little more tricky than just dropping the tranny. You will also have to drop the oil pan and rear main bearing cap. I think you can get a rubber replacement for the six but Im not sure. If not, there is a tool for replacing the rope seals without dropping the crankshaft out. Its designed to hold the seal while you fish the lead around the crank and then drag the seal into place. If you can find a rubber replacement, you can "roll" the upper half of the seal into place. Make sure you turn the rubber seal correctly in the way the lip faces, if you put it in backwards, it will leak like there's not one there. If you go with the rope seal, once you get it through the passage above the crank, push as much of it as you can back into the passage and then use a razor blade to trim the edges. Work the other half into the bearing cap until you are sure it has filled the void pretty well and then trim it flush with the cap. Put a small amount of silicon on the ends of the seal before you put it back on. Small amount, more isnt better in this case. A spot about the size of a pencil eraser will do fine. Torque the cap back on and turn the crank over to make sure nothing is bound up before you put it all back together. Use lots of patience.

[leadfoot]

when i built my 250
the seal sounds to be the same deal
-i got my seal in the rebuild kit
but i'm sure you can get or order one from a local napa or advance type store
-if i remember right the seal i got had a small plastic "slider" you run along side of the seal to "slide" it under the crank
-and pull the "slider" out once the seals goes in- may be the same deal..
either way..like he said....patience
DONT RUSH IT... and if in dought...STOP
and find someone who would know for sure to confirm with
wish ya luck
VAN~on

[hotdog]

Thanks everyone,i,m going to do this in the next couple of weeks ,got a budd y to help me:} we will go slow,got the gasket from "car quest" two half moon rubber inserts
thanks for all your input""" i love driving this van the looks i get are too much....Hotdog
when i built my 250
the seal sounds to be the same deal
-i got my seal in the rebuild kit
but i'm sure you can get or order one from a local napa or advance type store
-if i remember right the seal i got had a small plastic "slider" you run along side of the seal to "slide" it under the crank
-and pull the "slider" out once the seals goes in- may be the same deal..
either way..like he said....patience
DONT RUSH IT... and if in dought...STOP
and find someone who would know for sure to confirm with
wish ya luck
VAN~on[/QUOTE]

[hotdog]

Thanks for your help,my buddy i think who was going to help me is getting second thoughts,damm anyway i,ll go slow,do you have to raise the moter to drop the oil pan
or is there enough space for it to clear ???
without raiseing the engine{1966}much thanks
......hotdog

quote:

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Originally posted by Bullet:
Its a little more tricky than just dropping the tranny. You will also have to drop the oil pan and rear main bearing cap. I think you can get a rubber replacement for the six but Im not sure. If not, there is a tool for replacing the rope seals without dropping the crankshaft out. Its designed to hold the seal while you fish the lead around the crank and then drag the seal into place. If you can find a rubber replacement, you can "roll" the upper half of the seal into place. Make sure you turn the rubber seal correctly in the way the lip faces, if you put it in backwards, it will leak like there's not one there. If you go with the rope seal, once you get it through the passage above the crank, push as much of it as you can back into the passage and then use a razor blade to trim the edges. Work the other half into the bearing cap until you are sure it has filled the void pretty well and then trim it flush with the cap. Put a small amount of silicon on the ends of the seal before you put it back on. Small amount, more isnt better in this case. A spot about the size of a pencil eraser will do fine. Torque the cap back on and turn the crank over to make sure nothing is bound up before you put it all back together. Use lots of patience.

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[gotavan]

The shop manuel has a tool that holds the engine by the harmonic balencer/pulley to support it. The crossmember is dropped to get at the pan. It also warns about knocking the support out when the crossmember is removed. The flat rate book probably says Change oil pump 1.4 hours. RIGHT! I used to work as a mechanic and they would pay us by that darn book we used to look at it for laughs.

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gotavan