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schwim
11-01-2001, 12:45 PM
Hi all,

What should the gap be on the plugs and points for a 230 I6? and is 4 btdc with the vac disconnected correct? Where in the heck are the timing marks?

Also, is there an online site to help me with adjusting the stock carb(Rochester Monojet) on this? I haven't found a shop manual yet on this beast.

Thanks,
Jason

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If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving's not for you.

[This message has been edited by schwim (edited November 01, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by schwim (edited November 01, 2001).]

tomschaner
11-01-2001, 04:57 PM
here's the figures your looking for your 230 engine.spark plug is a ac-46n,gap at .035,point dwell 31-34 degree's,breaker point gap used .016,with new points .019.timing 4 degrees btdc with advance off.idle rpm 500.compression should be 130p.s.i.max 20 psi between cyl.as far as timing mark you should have a scribe line on your harmonic balancer and a timing mark tab looking at engine on rh side near water pump.hope that answers all your questions.good luck

schwim
11-01-2001, 05:01 PM
Tom,

Thanks so much for the info, I will be tuning in the morn...

http://www.vcvc.org/ubb/smile.gif
Jason

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If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving's not for you.

tonye66
11-01-2001, 07:12 PM
You will find that the timing marks are on the drivers side front of the engine. If you look at the place just above the alternator. I do not think I am being descriptive enough. It WILL be covered in a thick layer of grease (most likely) and it will require a small putty knife to clear the area.

Tony

schwim
11-01-2001, 09:26 PM
Tony,

Thanks much. I will dig into it tomorrow. I couldn't see a thing, but maybe that's why http://www.vcvc.org/ubb/smile.gif

Jason

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If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving's not for you.

schwim
11-03-2001, 09:25 AM
Update on the timing dilemna:

I found the timing marks(passenger side) and it's quite a treat trying to fit a timing gun in there. I marked the notch on the pully and moved the timing back and forth and the notch never showed up! Is there a way that the pully can be indexed incorrectly? I figured it would have a cotter key, but I'm not sure. Either way, my marks are about 90 out. Anybody else had this problem?

Also, although it's running MUCH better after the tuneup, I've still got a hellacious miss from idle until about 1500 rpm. I thought maybe the timing was advanced too far, but I tried moving the distributor until it wouldn't run in both directions and the miss won't disappear. It's gotta be fuel related. Anybody got an idea?

Thanks,
Jason

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If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving's not for you.

tomschaner
11-03-2001, 08:47 PM
that timing mark tab should be on the drivers side of engine below the alternator and within a quarter of an inch from the harmonic balancer.if not i am confused.never seen a mark for a chevy on the passenger side.

schwim
11-04-2001, 10:57 AM
that's where mine is-0-4 plate on the passenger side. Is it possible that this being a rebuilt, something is screwy?

Jason


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If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving's not for you.

richard
11-04-2001, 04:53 PM
i have a rebuilt 250 and the timing marks are on the passenger side

richard
11-04-2001, 05:03 PM
I have a rebuilt 250 and the 0-4 plate is on passehger side

tomschaner
11-04-2001, 06:11 PM
who elses timing tab is on the pass side.thats news to me.does anybody have any knowledge on this.so far tony and i have theirs on the drivers side who else can clue us in.is it possible to have the wrong tab installed on a engine?i wondering if this may be your problem or possibly a distributor dropped in wrong causing the timing not to show right.i have had a harmonic balancer spin on its rubber causing problems but don't ever remember one being that far out.

schwim
11-04-2001, 10:41 PM
Maybe I'm screwing something up, but I don't see where the position of the distrib(180 out or such) would matter as long as number one is firing correctly regardless of the rotation of the distributor. I'm attaching the timing light to the front most wire. This is #1 is it not? I guess that would be the first really good question. Second thought is that on air-cooled VW's(what I'm really familiar with)many MANY times, aftermarket pulleys' timing marks are incorrect. I thought maybe a different year or aftermarket manufacturer's balancer ended up on my engine. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Jason

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If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving's not for you.

LuckyChucky
11-04-2001, 10:49 PM
All four of my vans, 3 66's and 1,67 has the 230-250 six and the timing indicator are all on the drivers side. I have bumped my noggen enough times on the stearing wheel to know this is where it is. Also you require a good strong timing light as it is really close and dark there.

"Lucky"Chucky

[This message has been edited by freflyte (edited November 04, 2001).]

tomschaner
11-05-2001, 09:02 AM
let me ask you this.are you on the compression stroke of #1 cyl.when the timing mark lines up?the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.with the plugs out hand crank and see if #1 is in fact on the compression stroke.my next question is set the timing mark at 4 degrees btdc is your distributor pointed to #1 position with your rotor.if not it should.you may in fact have that distributor in wrong.the correct position of #1 on the distributor should installed #1 should be fwd rh position.in other words passenger side fwd on the distributor is its #1 position.with all the above positions and the rotor pointing to #1 cap position you will be correctly setup.then your timing light should be lined up.don't forget to also check your wire firing order it sure is easy to mess these up with everything torn apart.another item is are all your cyl firing if not that may also cause your problem.just trying to help out good luck and i hope you figure out what's up.later tom

schwim
11-05-2001, 02:34 PM
Hi Tom,

Thanks for the reply and I'll print out your post and go through the list.

I don't think the wire order is messed up. In past screw ups when I messed up the firing order, if it did run, it didn't get better at higher rpms, and this does. I thought maybe I have a cylinder w/low compression, or like you said, the distrib is out and if the cap isn't symmetrical, that would for sure cause a problem. With the vac canister on the distrib though, I don't see how it could be far off. There's not a lot of choises as to where it can go. Does the distributor have a worm gear at the bottom or a slot? And also does it drive the oil pump? I don't wanna burn up my new toy http://www.vcvc.org/ubb/smile.gif

Thanks,
Jason

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If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving's not for you.

schwim
11-15-2001, 11:54 PM
Hi Guys,

Today, the problem came to a head. It was running so poorly, that I made the trip to work at 30 mph. Seeing as how I a)need the van for work and b)can't miss work, I dropped it off. The problem wasn't what I or anyone else thought. The bushings in the distributor were so worn, that it was opening and closing the points at weird intervals. The timing is spot on now, there is no miss, and the powers back up to snuff. Life is grand!

Jason

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<A HREF="http://www.oldchevyvan.com" TARGET=_blank>OldChevyVan.com
</A>If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving's not for you.

painterchris
11-16-2001, 12:50 AM
Actually, that problem you mentioned is very common in the older chevies. The original points distributors had a lot of problems with the bushings wearing out over time. The old-timer who rebuilt my engine told me that they did make a "fix" for it in the early seventies: a small swivel joint was added to the bottom of the distributor rod. However, these distributors were only made for about 2 years before they went to the HEI cap, so they are hard to come by. The easiest fix for this problem is to replace your distributor with an HEI system. It's a simple switch and you never have problems with points again. All HEI caps have the swivel joint on the bottom, so worn bushings will also never be an issue.

LAter,
Andy.