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View Full Version : 67-70 van disc brake mod 64-66?



tomschaner
01-02-2002, 08:03 PM
heres a direct copy as supplied by me from jon glenn who i found via roger moyles.here's the entire parts list.#1 inner bearing part # bca a6(or stock 67 van)2 each.#2 outer wheel bearing part # bca a2(or 73 nova)2 each.#3 brake hose part# fedbh177028(or 78 chevy blazer 4x4)2 each.#4 brake calipers part #6045 & #6046(or 78 chevy blazer 4x4 lh and rh)#5 brake pad set part#raf md52(or 78 chevy blazer 4x4)#6 dust cap part #mm13977(or 73 nova)2 each.#7 caliper pins part # rah 5004-2(or 78 chevy blazer 4x4)4 each #8 brake rotors part# ra 105214(or 73 nova)2 each.#9 inner bearing grease seal part # bb71(or 67 chevy van)2 each.#10 1/2x2.5 inch grade 8 bolts(fine thread)4 each #11 3/8x2 inch grade 8 bolts(fine thread)2 each.#12 7/16x2.5 inch grade 8 bolts (fine thead)4 each.#13 grade 8 nuts 7/16(fine thread)4 each.and disc brake bracket kit(contains (2)axle brackets for calipers,6 BRACKET SPACERS,and 2 inner seal spacers)jon glenn supplied.you will also need a tap 1/2 20 nf to tap threads.theres all your parts heres how to do it.(directions)remove brake drum and backing plate.remove brake hose at line.remove shock.remove steering arm.drill out steering arm holes 1/2 inch.next tap (2)bottom holes on spindle with a 1/2 inch 20 nf tap.use (2) 1/2 x 2.5 ich bolts to hold steering arm to spindle,cut off any excess bolt.remove steering stop bolt.use (2)7/16x2.5 inch bolts and (1)3/8x2 bolt,one long spacer ,and(2) short spacers to hold caliper bracket to spindle.move shock to front side of axle.use a spacer on the inside of top shock mount and a longer bolt to hold the top of shock,use the same bolt on the bottom.press seal spacer onto spindle,assemble rotor,and put on spindle.assemble caliper and attach it to the bracket with caliper pins.attach brake hose.bleed brakes.clean and adjust rear brakes.a couple of notes the part #'s used are bendix,raybestos and federal part numbers i added the vehicles to simplify this task.if you don't like moving the shock to the front of the axle this setup is not for you.i haven't researched whether or not this setup will work on a 64-66 but i believe it will.you'll need to talk to jon for verification.you must have a dual master cyl or it won't work(67-70 came with them)overall the modification is fairly straight forward and alot cheaper in cost then if you buy one elsewhere.jon charged me about $120 for his kit and it will cost you around $300 for the parts at your local auto zone/advance auto.the only problem that i encountered was deciding which spacers to use in the kit to get the perfect setup.about one hour of playing with spacer combinations was required to get the best fit.as of yet my 67 is not road worthy but i can tell you all that it now has front disc brakes on it as far as how its going to stop my big block chevy i'm sure it will work way better then the drums would.if your still interested e mail me at tomschaner@prodigy.net and i will give you jons phone #. out respect to jon i will not post his # on this site.thats about it for how to do it all you need now is the want,$420 dollars or so and a little work and you too can have disc brakes.jon is the man that came up with the setup and my credit goes all to him all i am doing is passing it on to all that may be interested.hope this sheds light on how its done.

BZ
01-02-2002, 08:19 PM
Just wanted to add to Toms listing.
I purchased the bracket and spacers from John Glenn also, nice job, I did pay $200.00 though.
Purcahsed all of the other parts needed for $190.00 from a local parts house.
Have not had a chance to do the change on my 69 yet, really hate to take the old set up off, the brakes had been rebuilt completely when i purchased it, but it will be getting the chnge by spring. Will post results at that time.
BZ

ahighdiver
01-02-2002, 10:16 PM
Tom;
I'm in. I would like jon's number. I bought a stabilizer from a 68 and I have to install captive nuts in the frame to take the bar bracket to frame mount. (no threads) because of the location of the bar mount under the shock, I would not want to move the shock unless there was NO other option.
HD.

TurboVan
01-03-2002, 12:30 AM
I'm not clear on:
1. Why do you need a dual master, can't you just use a proportioning valve?
2. What is the problem involving the location of the sway bar mount on the axle and moving the shock to the front side? --- TV

tomschaner
01-03-2002, 04:36 PM
the reason for a dual master cyl. from my understanding is this ,without a dual if you overheat your brake fluid you will loose all your brakes.if your emergency brake doesn't work well your in big trouble since hitting anything while driving in these vans could be fatal(why gamble)also a disc brake requires more capacity in order to extend the pistons out thus reducing the effectiveness of your rear brakes to fully extend.will it work without dual maybe but i sure don't want to take that chance.as far as a proportioning valve it is in the brake system so that the front disc grab first.since these vans are front control this is not being used with this setup do to the close proximity of the master cyl to the front brakes.they should grab first without the use of one.till i get this van up and running i am still unsure whether or not it will be necessary.according to jon who has driven his van for years with the disc setup he has not had a problem with this issue.

TurboVan
01-03-2002, 10:46 PM
Well, after pulling a swaybar off a `68 today, I now see the problem.
Since the swaybar link mounts to the front of the shock bolt, you can't put on disc brakes unless you eliminate the swaybar first.
You can't use a `64 thru `66 swaybar because it will hit the dual master.
I hope I'm wrong about this, but I guess if given the choice, I would choose disc brakes, and try to figure out some other kind of swaybar setup. --- TV

tomschaner
01-04-2002, 03:16 PM
it might be possible to add a front shock lower bolt bracket extension off of its original location to bring the lower part of the shock inboard.haven't looked to close but it doesn't appear that to much movement would be involved so that the caliper clears the shock when the wheel is turned fully left or right.thus allowing the front side of bolt for the sway bar install.you may want to ask jon if this can be done.

TurboVan
01-12-2002, 01:09 AM
Or possibly add a bracket to the shock bolt so that the shock could mount ABOVE the axle, using a shorter shock (like maybe a rear shock) --- TV

ahighdiver
01-12-2002, 01:53 PM
I figure you could make a box sort of bracket with the corrosponding tab and slot to mount the bottom of the shock. That would allow the sway bar to mount a few inches foward.
HD.

bellvan
01-12-2002, 09:57 PM
this is kinda cocky,and lots of yall will hate me for saying this.if thare was a quick fix for swaping drum brakes,power stering,ect....it woulda been posted two years ago.anythings posible....its not always practical.
a good frind of mine and me were talkin today about old cars(witch we both like)
truth is,if you cant handle,or like,the old designs,have about $2000 ready and about $2000 more to re-design the thing.(not including all you want to do with the motor and trans,paint,interior ect...)and be ready for the disaopointment once its done.
im not aganst modifications,ive just seen too many people paying for a pipe dream.
you can hate me now
take care,have fun......good luck
Rusty

Seamus
01-13-2002, 12:22 AM
bellvan- I'm beginning to think you are right. Unless you've got too much money, sometimes it's better to learn to live with your vehicle's limitations and drive it accordingly. I'm sure others feel otherwise.

Vanner68
01-13-2002, 08:34 PM
Hear!Hear! My sentiments exactly! I enjoy figuring stuff like this out, and maybe even doing it, but I have access to a lot of equipment and talent (other's, not just mine) than most. And if an idea doesn't pan out, I can admit it doesn't work and move on.

Basically, If you are looking for a "kit" then these types of mods aren't for you.

68chevyboy
01-13-2002, 09:44 PM
well, i think disk brakes are great and all, just as power steering, windows, fuel injection, power brakes, etc, are great, but if you want that, buy an 89 caprice! im not saying that i will not put that on any of my cars, as a matter of fact one day i will have a van that has all that and more. if i hadn't just bought all new front supension parts two days ago i might have considered doing the swap, but whats the point in having an old car if it doesnt ride, drive, and feel like an old car? isnt that part of the fun? ever rode in a beat up 78 nova with a 305, 4 on the floor, a broken subframe, bad shocks, and horrible bushings all round down a dirt road at about 60? its great! then again, im not going to have to drive mine daily, although i will.