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  • chevy van 5150
    Certifiable Vanatic
    • Jan 2002
    • 853

    Shocks

    My new rear shocks came yesterday. I know there is no easy way but... what is the best way to get out my left upper shock bolt that has been frozen there for 36 years? (It still has the orignal shocks)?
  • ApplevalleyTim
    Certifiable Vanatic
    • May 2004
    • 578

    #2
    maybe a bigger hammer & a can of W-d40???
    good luck i will be replacing my 64 in about 2 weeks hope i can get em out too good luck........

    Comment

    • gregw98
      VCVC Member / Moderator
      • Feb 2002
      • 14247

      #3
      CV5150, I had the exact same problem on the same shock on my old 66. I spent most of the day getting that SOB out. Go down to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a stack of large grade 8 washers that fit on the bolt. Use an andle grinder and cut off the socket end of the bolt (not the threated end). Put a stack of washers on the threaded end and start tightening the nut. Every now and then, give the bolt a wack with a hammer (with the nut on). It may take a while, but the bolt will slowly be extracted from its bonded home. Loosen and remove nut and add more washers and the tighten it up again. An impact would make it an easier job. Soak it down with penetrating oil before you start.
      greg
      oh yeah, you can also use sockets as spacers in place of washers.
      1965 Chevy Sportvan

      "He who can reanimate the old and make it new is fit to be a teacher."

      Comment

      • chevy van 5150
        Certifiable Vanatic
        • Jan 2002
        • 853

        #4
        Thats a great idea greg!!!!!!!!! The nut comes right off its the bolt that is the problem. I knew somebody here would know an easier way.

        Thanks again

        Paul

        Comment

        • gregw98
          VCVC Member / Moderator
          • Feb 2002
          • 14247

          #5
          Paul, also take the wheel and tire off so you will have some working area.
          greg
          1965 Chevy Sportvan

          "He who can reanimate the old and make it new is fit to be a teacher."

          Comment

          • chevy van 5150
            Certifiable Vanatic
            • Jan 2002
            • 853

            #6
            Will do,

            Thanks again,

            Paul

            Comment

            • gotavan
              VCVC Member
              • Nov 2000
              • 1546

              #7
              Greg I had the same problem when I replaced shocks. Good solution. I had same trouble with fronts, bolt seized in axle, I ended up drilling that one out it twisted off. Use anti-seize on them for the next time.

              ------------------
              gotavan Dan
              What!? Me worry? bicycle started right up this morning 12 degrees
              gotavan Dan
              vannin since 1970
              1964 Chevy van 327 3 on tree
              1964 Chevy van 305 manual
              1964 GMC van 250 I6 powerglide
              1965 Chevy van 230 I6 3 on tree
              1967 Chevy van 250 I6 3 speed manual

              Comment

              • shorty
                VCVC Member
                • Apr 2003
                • 1734

                #8
                Has anyone out there used the Edlebrok IAS shocks? Pro's>? Cons (besides they are like $70.00 a peice)?

                ------------------
                66 Handi-Van, 79 G-20 64-70 Van Information Disks Available for $5.00 Email 4 More Info. Late Shorty
                1964 Chevy G-10, 194ci, 2 speed Powerglide (aka Vannibal)
                1971 Ford/Shasta E-300 Camper (aka Dreamkrusher)
                1995 Chevy Caprice (aka Babywagon)
                gmc6566 On the Instagrams

                Comment

                • chevy van 5150
                  Certifiable Vanatic
                  • Jan 2002
                  • 853

                  #9
                  The price of the IAS shocks was too much for me. I needed something to beef up my rear suspension so I got some air shocks.


                  Paul

                  Comment

                  • fustkarr
                    VCVC Member
                    • Feb 2004
                    • 2793

                    #10
                    Having taken my frt and rear springs apart to add extra leafs, i discovered that they only go together the same way they came apart. Thought about it for awhile and concluded that the van was movin' around so much that what was required was a panhard rod {frt and rear} and sway bar {possibly 2}Shocks just wouldn't do the job {i had Gabrieal adjustable "E"'s}
                    Good luk, Randy

                    Comment

                    • dieselvan
                      Certifiable Vanatic
                      • Jan 2003
                      • 1363

                      #11
                      Randy, If your van moves back and forth like that and it seems that a panhard bar will stop the movement, then you may only need new spring shackle bushings.

                      Comment

                      • tinlizard
                        Certifiable Vanatic
                        • Mar 2004
                        • 536

                        #12
                        quote:
                        Originally posted by fustkarr:
                        concluded that the van was movin' around so much that what was required was a panhard rod {frt and rear} and sway bar {possibly 2}



                        I agree that these vans, especially Gen 2 with those wonderful, supple, long-travel 2-leaf double-taper springs could use some additional axle location system.
                        But a panhard rod ain't it because a panhard rod on a leaf spring system increases roll resistance dramatically. What's wrong with that? I thought you'd never ask. Body roll and weight transfer are not the same thing. By adding the panhard rod you will reduce body roll somewhat, but will transfer more weight to the outside wheels during a turn. That means you will unweight the inside wheels, causing the rear inside to spin. These vans do that enough already. The panhard rod will make the problem much worse.

                        I agree with dieselvan; replace every spring and shackle bushing first. You can get urethane shackle bushing replacements at any speed shop, but I haven't found the front spring eye bushing in urethane yet. Replace the front sway bar bushings and link rod bushings too. While you're at it install some top quality shocks.

                        If all that doesn't yield the desired results, install a larger diameter front sway bar, If you can find one. Unless your van is really slammed I'd stay away from a rear sway bar.

                        If you still feel the need to keep the axles centered under the van, consider fabricating an a-arm system, which will lower the roll center, provide lateral location (like a panhard rod), eliminate spring wrap (like traction bars), and has no effect on roll resistance and weight transfer.

                        For more info on this topic get a copy of How to Make Your Car Handle by Fred Puhn (HP Books). You can find it at the speed shop when you're picking up the spring bushings.

                        tb

                        Comment

                        • fustkarr
                          VCVC Member
                          • Feb 2004
                          • 2793

                          #13
                          I'm on my third copy now {destroyed one, lent one out [never came back]}. The book, and it is a very clear/informative pub., says the panhard rod is a location device {i prefer watts link, but the difference in performance wouldn't be worth the effort}What i noticed was the leafs were "corkscrewed" in such a way that reassembly was "my way or the highway" This was caused by the van body "skewing" sideways or moving towards the outside of the corner your in the process of negotiating in relation to the running gear.A sway bar would assist in cutting down/limiting the body roll but the van body would still skew. The panhard rod would also accentuate body roll because {all things being the same} skew would morph into body roll. At the time i did the V8 conversion {thus the extra leafs} i could still get the stock parts from Chevy, they were amoung the parts replaced. I did not notice a great deal of slop in the bushings, etc.
                          Randy

                          Comment

                          • Twovanman
                            VCVC Member
                            • Jan 2002
                            • 520

                            #14
                            I have never saw a pan hard bar on any leaf spring vehicle in my life. But on a vehicle with coil springs they have them to locate the rear end< the trailing arms locate the rear end from front to back and the panhard bar locates the rear end from side to side> Is your tire pressure up or on the low side Ken

                            Comment

                            • Joe Russin

                              #15
                              quote:
                              Originally posted by fustkarr:
                              At the time i did the V8 conversion {thus the extra leafs} i could still get the stock parts from Chevy, they were amoung the parts replaced. I did not notice a great deal of slop in the bushings, etc.
                              Randy



                              sounds to me like you did alot of work for nothing.I just did a v/8 swap.Left the springs stock and my van handles fine.I did install new shocks and sway bar bushings.........Wookee

                              Comment

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