View Full Version : she's aaaaaaaaliveeeee!!!!!!

03-13-2001, 02:23 PM
well gang, she is up and running, from letting her sit for a spell my carb crapped out on me, so i looked into having my carb rebuilt, and the shops i go to cost about $150 to rebuild, so i called the parts store that i go to and he priced a factory rebuilt rochester dual jet for $130, with a decent warranty. while she was running, i realized that i could use a new set of points and condensor, eventually i plan on changing out the points to BREAKERLESS SE SYSTEM. in MAY 2001 super chevy magazine on page 141, titled "points no more" is a simple way to change from old to new if that is what you are looking to do. it is easier than pertronix, because you do not have to remove the distributor for the install. the only bad part about this item is that it is only been out for about four weeks, and it costs about $160 bucks, i plan on waiting till the price drops tremendously. it has a year replacement warranty. the website is breakerless.com check it out! all i got to do after this to take her to branson is change out the rearend and i am cruisin yahoooooo!!!!!


03-13-2001, 02:32 PM
Congratulations Pat! I know how great it feels to hear something rumble that has been quiet for too long.

As for the ignition. I switched to a Mallory electronic ignition in my Camaro for just at $100. The new piece fit inside the distributor cap where the points and condenser used to sit. No one can tell and it was an easy switch. I put it on in '96 and haven't had a lick of trouble since.

In addition, I think it gives a bit more pep and better mileage too.

03-13-2001, 08:25 PM
I would personally recommend a few things:

To switch the ignition, just get a late 70's HEI stock chevy distributor at a junkyard. It is cheap, an easy switch, and the HEI distributors have a major advantage: the shaft is hinged so that the bushings won't wear out the way they will in a breaker-points distributor. You could probably find a mechanic that would switch it out for you and it would still cost less than $100. Just a thought.

Also, I have had many carburetor experiences and it is often better to get your old one rebuilt by a reputable shop than to buy one at an auto parts store. I have tried both ways. The parts store purchase is cheaper in the short run, but it can be a headache later. I bought a carb from a shop and 6 months later, I was having all kinds of trouble with my van. Turns out, the company that built the carb had put locktite on the screws. The gasoline ate into it and pieces of locktite clogged up my jets. I had to have the thing professionally cleaned out TWICE! Buyer beware. On another vehicle, I paid a shop $200 to rebuild my carb and I never had to touch it again.


03-14-2001, 02:59 AM
Remember, If you go to the wrecking yard and get a 70's HEI distributor and replace the points distributor to used a 12 volt wire from the ignition to power the coil in the distributor cap. The wire that ran the point system ran through a resistor by the starter and only runs full 12 volts when it is starting. It's a pain if you forget and your van only runs three blocks before it dies.
I made the swap and I like it. It is easy to do and you never worry about points again. (It's cheap too!)


greg showers
03-14-2001, 07:45 AM
it's always nice to hear about others getting their vans running, yesterday i went out and fired up my old 69 and took it for a three hour ride, a buddy stopped by and asked if he could ride in it since he hasn't been in it since it had the straight six and three on the tree, we went all over the place, talking about the good old days and all. well tis the season for all of these vans to start coming to life and crusing down the road, well i'm going to go for another ride in mine later....

03-14-2001, 08:58 AM
hey guys, thanks for the replies, i plan on finishing the small work on her this weekend and then change out the rearend on spring break. painterchris, i had the same problem with a carb i bought from a parts store that i put on my el camino years ago, and i got burned by a carb rebuild shop the same way. i called the two carb shops that i have dealt with in the past that have been good to me and got prices on having my carb rebuilt. both shops charge about $165 to do the job, and then i called the auto parts store that i go to, these guys are top notch parts men, 98 percent of the time they are able to get what you need, and they told me that a replacement carb would run me $135. i asked them if they ever had any problems with these carbs and the owner of the store said yes, two occasions in all the years that they been using that company, i liked that he was honest. here is the twist, after i gave him the numbers off the side of the carb and the rebuilt one came in, i went to pick it up and it was the wrong one. i was already driving on a rebuilt carb that was put together by parts of other carbs. the top was correct, the middle section was from a different type of GM, and the bottom plate was correct, but the gasket was a two guide hole gasket with the other two holes drilled to mount four studs for the carb. WRONG CARB!!!!! so the guys got together and did some book searching and i believe they found the proper one for my 350. i get the same guarantee from this distributor as i would get from the rebuild shop. even though the carb worked well at one time, i would like to have the correct one for my engine. i hope it doesnt get anymore confusing than it already has. it seems that it is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are gonna get. HA HA HA HA!!



03-14-2001, 06:39 PM
Well, those "warranties" are a funny thing. They'll replce your carb, but you don't get reimbursed for the tow truck, the frustration, the time wasted... well, you get the idea. Plus, if you get your carb rebuilt and it craps out, they can fix the mistake they made before. When you buy one, they often just replace it with another carb that will inevitably have the same problem as the first one. Anyway, I need to get my carb rebuilt, but I don't know where to get it done in Atlanta. Plus, I would like to replace the stock single-barrel with a later model carb that has the built-in idle-stop solenoid to prevent deiseling, but I need to talk to a qualified mechanic about it.
Anyway, good luck with your new carb...

03-15-2001, 08:38 AM
thanks andy, i waved all of my options and i hope i made the best decision. the guys at the parts store i go to found the carb i needed and it matches perfectly. i dont have to cap off as many lines as i did on the old one, and the parts guys are pretty good about sticking to the warranty, they said that they would send it back for me and it would take one working day to replace it. i plan on hooking her up tonight after bowling league night and if i have enough light, i will do the points and condensor also.

thanks again and wish me luck.


03-15-2001, 07:28 PM
This is why I put a Torker intake and 600 cfm Holley on mine.....

03-18-2001, 11:54 PM
I know your problem with carbs. I tried all kinds on my 66's with not much luck. Then after a while on the net I came up with a place that will sell you a brand new one. They actually have no web site but here is the address: Carburetor Engineering Co., 3324 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, Ca. 91107 (626)-795-3221. I had good luck and bought a new in the box for about $180 if I remember the amount correctly. Give them a try.

03-26-2001, 12:39 PM
hey gang, the carb is doing good, i hope that i dont have any problems with it, it seems to be working well, down the road after i finish all the body work on it, i plan on putting a new 350 in it and then i will put a 4 barrel holley or edelbrock, but that is later on.

now it is time to change out the rearend, yikes!!!!!!!