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Thread: Aluminum radiator

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mags View Post
    Thatís good to here. I donít have a shroud but I do have a complete belly pan. Did you get the one on eBay for $200.00 including shipping for Mustage and Cougar ? I ordered mine yesterday. Thanks
    Wait, do you have a 1st or 2nd gen? 1st Gen has no shroud, just bar thingy that I think is just a warning not to get your fingers cut off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by VanSandy View Post
    Wait, do you have a 1st or 2nd gen? 1st Gen has no shroud, just bar thingy that I think is just a warning not to get your fingers cut off.
    I have a 1965. 1st gen. I looked at it tonight , it looks like the radiator is bolted to that bar and the bar is bolted down both sides of the dog house. I will probably have to wait till I get the radiator and take the old one out before I see how I am going to mount it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mags View Post
    Thatís good to here. I donít have a shroud but I do have a complete belly pan. Did you get the one on eBay for $200.00 including shipping for Mustage and Cougar ? I ordered mine yesterday. Thanks
    Yep. $200 including shipping. You'll have to get a fan shroud, or it'll overheat in traffic. But you can easily make one from scratch if you don't have a stocker you can butcher. Make it in two halves that you can fasten together. Make it out of cardboard first, then use it as a template to make the real one out of sheet aluminum. You'll also need to make 4 attaching brackets out of the same aluminum, bent at 90 degrees and fasten to the shroud halves ( I used 1/8 pop rivets) then bolt it to the radiator. Easy to attach and remove.

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    you might to send it up from the bottom. it 'can' drop in from above but requires a good bit of cussing and throwing things!
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    Quote Originally Posted by flying brick View Post
    Yep. $200 including shipping. You'll have to get a fan shroud, or it'll overheat in traffic. But you can easily make one from scratch if you don't have a stocker you can butcher. Make it in two halves that you can fasten together. Make it out of cardboard first, then use it as a template to make the real one out of sheet aluminum. You'll also need to make 4 attaching brackets out of the same aluminum, bent at 90 degrees and fasten to the shroud halves ( I used 1/8 pop rivets) then bolt it to the radiator. Easy to attach and remove.
    Mags, you might want to check on getting your stock rad re-cored with an extra row. Supposedly that is what a previous owner of my van from had done. I have had zero cooling issues. Unfortunately I have no idea who did the work or how much it cost. Dropping the stock rad out the bottom is easy - except for the inevitable coolant spilling on your arm!

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    VCVC Member Optik's Avatar
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    One of the best things you can do for airflow is put some kind of scoop on the bottom of the belly pan. Make it big enough to encompass the area of the louvers. It will only need to extend about 3"-4" below the pan to be in the airstream.

    I'm also a firm believer that the louvers in the belly pan actually hinder the airflow. I cut them out of the pan on my black van and covered the hole with a scoop. That van has had the stock radiator (first gen downflow) recored to three rows, but its also dealing with a motor that has a mild build on it as well. On my blue van I took the pan off and ran without and never had an overheating issue in that van.

    There are so many additional factors that affect how hot your motor runs that its best to knock them off one at a time and see what helps the most. Engine timing, carb adjustment, water flow, air flow, how full of gunk the block is, etc. Most of these are easy enough to address without a lot of major work or expense before putting down a chunk of cash on a new radiator.

    -Tim
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    Tim Henderson
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    1965 Chevy Sportvan "Good Twin"
    1965 Chevy Sportvan Deluxe "Evil Twin"


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    Quote Originally Posted by flying brick View Post
    I recently installed one in my '68 with 350 v8. Same mods for installation brackets. I had to cut the original fan shroud to fit, then cut it in half, so it could be easily installed last. Also made an air dam directing air up to the radiator (I have no belly pan). Also installed universal recovery tank. Runs 160-170 on the highway, 190 in traffic. Couldn't be happier.
    Flying Brick,

    Did you have any issues with the port for your overflow? Mine seems to be clocked wrong and I can't get a hose around the tube.

    Mike...

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    Quote Originally Posted by madillow View Post
    Flying Brick,

    Did you have any issues with the port for your overflow? Mine seems to be clocked wrong and I can't get a hose around the tube.

    Mike...
    Yeah, the port would be better facing the pass side, but I had no trouble fitting a hose, just had it make a u turn and mounted the recovery tank between the radiator and the inside front of the doghouse.

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    Van Addict CREWCHIEF's Avatar
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    I am about to order one of the new alum. rads. and I was wondering if it could be narrowed up enough to fit in a 1st gen. the specs. on the new one says the width is 22.5" and measuring my doghouse it looks like the widest point is 21". I'm Understanding that I can cut off enough flange to get it down that narrow? and the width measurement includes the flanges?

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    VCVC Member ShawnM's Avatar
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    Cougar Radiator fits 66 with some trimming

    I put a Cougar radiator in my 66, shop did it for me. They said it fit fine after trimming the mounting flanges on the sides of the radiator. I seem to recall they did install it from the bottom. I seem to recall maybe because the doghouse was too narrow to do it from the top and maintain a mounting flange?

    With he new radiator in there, and everything else stock, with a 250 engine, 3 on three and stock underbelly air scoop in place, the engine runs great and temp has been perfect, no issues.

    The shop used and modified larger conduit straps to hold the top in place, with rubber under the straps to separate the aluminum from the galvanized metal.

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    Last edited by ShawnM; 03-26-2020 at 09:31 AM.

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