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Thread: Upgrading Cam

  1. #21
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Yesterday I began removing the old camshaft bearings. I used my new cam bearings removal tool. Easy enough to use. The rubber sleeves that go on the unit of the tool where the bearing is placed made sliding the bearings real difficult. It was too tight. Too tight that the rubber ripped when removing the bearings. I tried a thinner rubber and same effect. For the first bearing I only used the small extension portion of the tool due to clearance issues in front of the engine. You need enough room to smack the tool with a hammer. I used a socket at the end of the small extension to be able to hit it with a hammer. I used the long tube with the rest of the bearings 2 and 3 since it goes deeper into the block. I ordered cam bearings from 12bolt.com (king brand) since Tom recommend these on his site. I got disappointed in opening the box and feeling the bearings. I had to file some outer rough jagged edges down on all bearings. And one had a scratch in the middle. Luckily it was not going to be used since I was not removing the 4th one from my block.
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    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  2. #22
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    So today I was able to install the new bearings. I did check the last bearing and no scouring was felt. The important part about installing new cam bearings is to align the oil holes. If you don't, the rest of the engine will not get the necessary lubrication, and definite catastrophe will happen.On my first attempt I tried to eye it with just a line on the hole in the inner and outer parts of the bearing and I was close but no cigar. If you look carefully at the first picture you can see the whole in the bearing not aligned to the block oil hole. I needed to figure out a strategy that would work. First, I needed to press out this new bearing and try again. I placed the new bearings in front of their respective cavity and aligned the oil hole by a marker line I drew on the bearing face. Then I drew a marker line at the 6 o'clock mark so I can visually see a visual center while under the van to drive the bearing in accurately. It worked out great. Right on the mark, aligning the oil holes perfectly.
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    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  3. #23
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    The front bearing was installed last. I used the small extension once again. I used only a mark at the outer bearing surface to align the oil hole since I was not going to be under the van. This mark would be visible from the top as I drove it in. The other bearings were aligned first with the marks and then blindly smacked in slowly. When I thought I finished driving this last front one in the oil hole was not aligned. It looked like it needed to be pressed in further to be just right with the hole. I rechecked a picture with the original bearing and it was further in. So I went ahead and pressed it in further. The hole lines up. Time for Camshaft install. But first I will be removing the crankshaft gear with a puller. Wish me luck.
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    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 12-20-2018 at 05:26 PM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  4. #24
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    These are the original bearings. Surprisingly the front bearing (#1) was not too bad. The 2nd and 3rd were bad. Glad I replaced them. The 4th one was left in the block. It felt smooth. I have to add a disclosure. Bearing inner diameters are all the same but outer diameters are different. I had taken out all new bearings from the box. They were shipped in order. I mixed them up. I didn't know. I thought they were all the same size until I saw part numbers on the box. Luckily I marked my old bearings as I took them out. I measured and re measured and matched measurements to new bearings. I repeated to make sure. The # 1 and 4 are bigger (size 5.11/picture) and middle 2 and 3 are smaller ( size 5.09/picture)outer diameters. So, bearings 1 and 4 are part number CH 5-2, and bearings 2 and 3 are CH 5-3. This is from memory so if incorrect I'll come back and correct them.
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    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 12-20-2018 at 05:44 PM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  5. #25
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Ok, just came out to remove the crank gear with a 3 arm type puller and the clearance on the bottom is not big enough to fit the ends of the puller and the top of the gear has no space behind it to allow a puller. I removed the woodruff key first.

    How do remove this gear? And what's an appropriate tool to use? Looks like maybe a 2 arm type puller with thinner ends? Help if anyone has done it before. In the meantime I'll be looking for a different puller.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9631.jpg   IMG_9632.jpg   IMG_9629.jpg   IMG_9633.jpg   IMG_9634.jpg  

    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  6. #26
    VCVC Member panelmanrd's Avatar
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    that gear is a bitch to get off, it usually runs against a gear
    that is fiber and never wears out, it is harder than the fiber gear
    and an aluminum replacement gear, it theory it should never need
    changing. I`d leave it there and assemble it.
    54 chevy panel truck 355 tpi 700r4 325/9in
    64 chevy 90 5.7 tpi 700r4 336 8.2
    69 chevy panel van 5.7 tbi 700r4 336 8.2

  7. #27
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by panelmanrd View Post
    that gear is a bitch to get off, it usually runs against a gear
    that is fiber and never wears out, it is harder than the fiber gear
    and an aluminum replacement gear, it theory it should never need
    changing. I`d leave it there and assemble it.
    My new CAM came with a new aluminum Cam gear attached (no more nylon) and came with a new aluminum crankshaft Gear for me to install. This original type gear on the crankshaft looks like it could be steel. I don't want to mix metals by leaving this gear on. One gear may be stronger than the other and eat it up.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  8. #28
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    if your determined to change the gear (I would leave it) use 2 small chisels as wedges to force it off. beat them in between block and gear and keep both snug/tight. a little heat helps. if still not budging, beat the chisels in as tight as you can and then tap on the crank forcing it into the gear. while a good solid smack will pop it right off, you do not want to damage the end of crank. if it is tapped/threaded, install bolt with a few washers and hit I as hard as you can. plan on buying a new bolt.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  9. #29
    VCVC Charter Member Vanner68's Avatar
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    You need this style puller:

    Gregg Groff


    There's no place like 127.0.0.1

    1968 Chevy G20 108 panel Now with 454 power!

    1965 Chevy G10 panel- OHC Pontiac inline 6

  10. #30
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for the suggestions. If having an aluminum cam gear and a steel crank gear is not a known problem I will leave it. I was just going to replace it with Aluminum so it can be aluminum to Aluminum gears.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

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