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Thread: Upgrading Cam

  1. #81
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrinaman View Post
    the pin can be left but really should have a bolt to prevent the gasket from leaking. I strongly recommend ditching the bolts and using studs in the head. you need to hold both exhaust's and the intake in place while you use your other hand to start the bolts all without destroying the gasket.

    Even though you used studs, did you use the same type clamps/washers? Or different washers?
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  2. #82
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    ......And, is the dowel pin threaded? If it is, then it's a no brainer and I'll add a stud. Just not looking forward to tapping it if it's not.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  3. #83
    Certifiable Vanatic RAY68108's Avatar
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    The pins at both ends are threaded...vise grips, turn them out.
    68 108 panel parts donor
    69 108 sportvan deluxe 350 4bbl 700R4 3:36 posi
    68 108 sportvan custom 350 4bbl 700R4

  4. #84
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Update. I did finally get that dowel pin to budge. Threaded, it is. I'm using studs on all holes. I'm using the original smaller washer/clamps on some and the thick washers I bought in other holes. The washers I bought had to be grinded down to remove some of the roundness for clearance. I also used lock nuts so they don't back out. When bolting down the manifold i didn't see enough thread left over on a couple of studs so I backed out the studs a bit and used blue lock tite on the head side. Hopefully that's not a bad decision. I painted the Clifford intake to match. So I ordered a 4bbl to 2bbl adapter and had it installed. I had to grind down holes because the 2bbl bolt down holes didn't match/align to the holes on my 32/36 Webber. Once I bolted the Webber down to the adapter I saw that there was a problem. The linkage was binding down on the adapter and couldn't rotate. I had to research and buy a spacer. Got one from redline. I had to buy longer bolts for that setup and use more ingenuity by grinding a bit more inside the adapter holes, and grinding down some of the thick washers for use inside and outside of the adapter on this installation.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0613.jpg   IMG_0615.jpg   IMG_0558.jpg   IMG_0564.jpg   IMG_0677.jpg  

    IMG_0684.jpg   IMG_0699.jpg  
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  5. #85
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    TV bracket for Chevy 230/250 ideas?

    Hopefully I'll be able to do a video of how it sounds later today. It sounds too nice. Hopefully once I attach pipes to the headers and mufflers it will tone the sound down. Sounds comparable to my 406 sbc with radical cam...but hope it's just the headers not connected to a muffler.

    Only dilemma I'm facing now is coming up with a bracket for a throttle cable and for the 200 4r tv cable to use on this Webber. More of the dilemma is that it's on the I6. A v8 would have more mounting options. I previously had ny linkage connected to the factory linkage which pivoted on the doghouse. I want to see if I can use something different to avoid the binding and the attachment to the doghouse. Any ideas or pictures of your brackets on an I6 for tv cable or Webber. If it was just throttle, redline makes a bracket for that but I need to include the tv cable for the 200 4r to pull as the gas pedal pushes.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  6. #86
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    take out the short studs and install longer ones, lock 2 nuts together and tighten as if you don't ever want them vibrating out. it will never be easier than now! the Clifford adaptor should of worked with the webers and cleared. while your carb orientation is correct, you may need to rotate 90 degrees to fit in the dog box. I would address that before tackling the linkage. if you choose to leave carb as it is, you can either use a cable or a bell crank and your linkage. the t.v. cable is much more than kick down and close doesn't cut it. there is no adapter available or the webers that I could find so I made one. I kept all the notes for future use. very crude but exact on specs! last 2 pics are in the trans. plunger bottoms out at full throttle and .820-.860 add idle.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190514_180410.jpg   20190514_183410.jpg   20190514_185715.jpg   20190514_185736.jpg   20190514_180513.jpg  

    20190514_180518.jpg  
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  7. #87
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    is that a single adapter or two separate pieces? I know first hand that cliffords stuff is pricy but their $68 adapter will save you tons of greif.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1431032908714-1024999131.jpg  
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  8. #88
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrinaman View Post
    is that a single adapter or two separate pieces? I know first hand that cliffords stuff is pricy but their $68 adapter will save you tons of greif.
    No, Mine isn't the Clifford brand adapter. I chose to save money lol. Everything I do is on a budget but usually involves finding the expensive proper parts at a cheap price. This time around I was reading, researching and couldn't find a guarantee that any brand spacer would fit my webber properly. Similar dilemma of holes not aligning happened when I got the 1bbl to 2bbl adapter when first installing the webber. I had to grind the holes a bit wider to accept the bolts. So, I went ahead and took a chance on the budget friendly adapter. Final price on that 4bbl to 2bbl adapter was 17.99 on ebay. It was a SPectre brand adapter. The added dilemma on this adapter is the area where the bolt holes are...they are shaped in the shape of a hex bolt or nut. A flattened area would have made life easier on this install. After finding it was binding I bought the separate spacer from redline ebay as well for 16.75

    Thanks for the tips on the bracket. I'll read up on the geometry for tv setup but is there a specific way it should be setup angle wise or just have the right pull pressure?
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  9. #89
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    I made a couple of videos of a walk though of my setup and spacers.
    Apparently I'm having trouble with the video... the embedded code on both are not working. I'll try just putting links to videos here. If you guys can get the embed code and repost for me that would be great. I just like sharing pics and videos....I know most of us are visual people. You can also go to youtube.com and under search type in 66BeachCruiser, and all the videos I've posted will likely pop up.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgw59a7wPS8


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMHC87TFgz8
    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 05-29-2019 at 12:48 AM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  10. #90
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    the amount of pull is the important one, 1.09-1.125". choke/fast idle will throw that off so don't overlook that. the angle is important too but wont burn up your tranny. it starts aprox. 1/3 before tdc and ends 2/3 past. if/when you research this, keep in mind that webers don't rotate the typical 78 degrees! my notes with exact measurements and angles are at the shop but will get them later. I am removing my intake in a few weeks and will be making another t.v. bracket for the new intake. I plan to document it all. both the arm and the bracket will require buying similar and modifying so brand new parts will look like my current glob of welds. any of these are a good starting point but you still need to weld and drill a new hole at the right angle and distance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails carb bracket.jpg   s.jpg   s-l16.jpg   s-l1600.jpg  
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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