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Thread: Upgrading Cam

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    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Upgrading Cam

    There's several ideas in the works for my van such as AC, power steering pump for steering and possibly hydraulic brake booster. I've only collected parts. I installed my recently refreshed head in the 230 and went ahead and took off the original doghouse to make room for accessories I want to add, and more airflow, plus later on be ready for a v8 swap. So a v8 doghouse will be put on. Right now I'm having fun playing with this 230. Got me a Clifford intake, split headers, v6 power steering bracket, pulleys and pump. For now I was going to just button it up but since I lifted the engine up and it's sitting with wood blocks between the engine mounts and now no doghouse in the way.....I measured that there was enough clearance to pull out the CAM. I went ahead and pulled it out. It's CAM upgrade time
    Not taking engine out.
    For now I'm thinking a marine Cam.

    Question: Do I need a name brand like COM CAM or can I just order from my local Car Quest? And any duration numbers to stick with? I want better than stock but not radical at all.

    Question 2: Do I need to change out the CAM bushings or can I leave the ones on there. I saw light scratching shown in pictures on the first bushing but did try lightly sanding off scratch with 1000 grit.


    First picture is showing how I used a hammer and a chisel to go under the doghouse lip and knock out the spot welds
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9190.jpg   IMG_9192.jpg  
    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 11-17-2018 at 03:36 PM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  2. #2
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Two screws need to be removed that hold down the camshaft onto the block. I struggled for a long while twisting and turning wondering why the cam was hung up and not coming out. By only following what I remembered and not reading the book I forgot that the fuel pump had to come out as well. I realized that as I was turning the CAM fuel started coming out the fuel line. Easy as pie once I removed the fuel pump. It came out smoothly. Unfortunately I saw tiny scratching likely due to that struggle earlier.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9209.jpg   IMG_9213.jpg   IMG_9212.jpg   IMG_9214.jpg   IMG_9215.jpg  

    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  3. #3
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    And I will add some questions to this, concerning the timing gears. I will upgrade to aluminum timing gears since original has nylon (mine still looks solid). With CAM off I can upgrade the gear on the CAM but the Crankshaft gear has no visible space behind the gear for a puller and the gear itself doesn't have screw holes to screw in a puller like in the books.

    Anyone remove a gear on a 230 while in engine or have recommendations? Leave that gear alone and just upgrade the CAM gear? Or Tap the gear sprocket for screw holes to screw in a puller? Ideas?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9216.jpg  
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    http://www.inliners.org/tech/cams250.pdfheat it up and it should slide off, but I would just reuse it since everything else besides the cam is old/worn anyways. the comp cams 268 would be a good cam, probably the most duration you could go without a stall converter. I ran their 292 version in my 250 (still 268 advertised but slightly more lift and duration) headers, 2 barrel and decked the head 100/1000". lots of power and none of the big cam issues. when comparing cams, look at duration@0.50". 218 would be about as far as you should go. for lift, more is better. 212 would be more like an r.v. cam and add a little everywhere but nothing huge. inliners has cam specs for aftermarket and marine cams on their site. also check out howards cams, the 213 would be another decent cam if the 268 (218) scares you. both available threw summit.
    Last edited by jrinaman; 11-17-2018 at 09:52 PM.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    Certifiable Vanatic Z-Machine (aka VanZack)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrinaman View Post
    http://www.inliners.org/tech/cams250.pdfheat it up and it should slide off, but I would just reuse it since everything else besides the cam is old/worn anyways. the comp cams 268 would be a good cam, probably the most duration you could go without a stall converter. I ran their 292 version in my 250 (still 268 advertised but slightly more lift and duration) headers, 2 barrel and decked the head 100/1000". lots of power and none of the big cam issues. when comparing cams, look at duration@0.50". 218 would be about as far as you should go. for lift, more is better. 212 would be more like an r.v. cam and add a little everywhere but nothing huge. inliners has cam specs for aftermarket and marine cams on their site. also check out howards cams, the 213 would be another decent cam if the 268 (218) scares you. both available threw summit.
    I noticed this cam sheet doesn't include the 292. Is it different regarding cams?
    1969 G10 108, 307 V8, TH350, 3.08 gears...for now...
    ...and the old 66...

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z-Machine (aka VanZack) View Post
    I noticed this cam sheet doesn't include the 292. Is it different regarding cams?
    the cams are basically the same except for the fuel pump lobe. no idea why comp cams increased spes but still called it a 268. what I had was 219 @ .50 and 510-520? lift. the 230/250 version is slightly less at 218 so I can not see any overcam issues. consider wacking some metal off the head while it is apart! 60/1000 will give a noticable bump in compression and 100/1000 ran on 89 but I always used 91-93. cheap horsepower, just had a head milled yesterday for $60 buck.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Thanks for both links. The 260H cam with 212 duration at .050 could be great. The milder 252H with 206 duration might be what I may be aiming for.

    The Howards Cams look promising! Good price too!

    There's a cam @ .050 207 duration - Described as: smooth idle, strong low end, good vacuum, good fuel economy

    There's a cam @ .050 213 duration - Described as: Good idle, street, off-road, towing, good fuel efficiency

    what to choose.....
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

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    VCVC Member joyrde's Avatar
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    All the above is great advice . . . . that said . . . if A/C & power steering are in your future, I suggest you install the V-8 first, Six Cylinders struggle at free way speeds, in stock form. They do a little better when "built-up" which is much more costly than a V-8.

    Install a v-8 - - - literally a bolt-in

  10. #10
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joyrde View Post
    All the above is great advice . . . . that said . . . if A/C & power steering are in your future, I suggest you install the V-8 first, Six Cylinders struggle at free way speeds, in stock form. They do a little better when "built-up" which is much more costly than a V-8.

    Install a v-8 - - - literally a bolt-in
    Thanks Joyrde, for that advice. The v8 will surely be in this vans future. And I know I could easily skip all this and just switch in a v8 but I just want to upgrade this six and use it a little longer. I've already got the head done and installed, I've bought the bigger manifold and cast dual headers. I'm hoping the upgraded power that it will have will be good for handling the extra AC compresor and power steering pump. That being said, should I go a little more with the one that says it's good for towing(213 duration @ .050) instead of the one with 207 @ .050? 207 is still better than the stock cam at 177 duration. ????
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

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