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Thread: Upgrading Cam

  1. #81
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrinaman View Post
    the pin can be left but really should have a bolt to prevent the gasket from leaking. I strongly recommend ditching the bolts and using studs in the head. you need to hold both exhaust's and the intake in place while you use your other hand to start the bolts all without destroying the gasket.

    Even though you used studs, did you use the same type clamps/washers? Or different washers?
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  2. #82
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    ......And, is the dowel pin threaded? If it is, then it's a no brainer and I'll add a stud. Just not looking forward to tapping it if it's not.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  3. #83
    Certifiable Vanatic RAY68108's Avatar
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    The pins at both ends are threaded...vise grips, turn them out.
    68 108 panel parts donor
    69 108 sportvan deluxe 350 4bbl 700R4 3:36 posi
    68 108 sportvan custom 350 4bbl 700R4

  4. #84
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Update. I did finally get that dowel pin to budge. Threaded, it is. I'm using studs on all holes. I'm using the original smaller washer/clamps on some and the thick washers I bought in other holes. The washers I bought had to be grinded down to remove some of the roundness for clearance. I also used lock nuts so they don't back out. When bolting down the manifold i didn't see enough thread left over on a couple of studs so I backed out the studs a bit and used blue lock tite on the head side. Hopefully that's not a bad decision. I painted the Clifford intake to match. So I ordered a 4bbl to 2bbl adapter and had it installed. I had to grind down holes because the 2bbl bolt down holes didn't match/align to the holes on my 32/36 Webber. Once I bolted the Webber down to the adapter I saw that there was a problem. The linkage was binding down on the adapter and couldn't rotate. I had to research and buy a spacer. Got one from redline. I had to buy longer bolts for that setup and use more ingenuity by grinding a bit more inside the adapter holes, and grinding down some of the thick washers for use inside and outside of the adapter on this installation.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0613.jpg   IMG_0615.jpg   IMG_0558.jpg   IMG_0564.jpg   IMG_0677.jpg  

    IMG_0684.jpg   IMG_0699.jpg  
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  5. #85
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    TV bracket for Chevy 230/250 ideas?

    Hopefully I'll be able to do a video of how it sounds later today. It sounds too nice. Hopefully once I attach pipes to the headers and mufflers it will tone the sound down. Sounds comparable to my 406 sbc with radical cam...but hope it's just the headers not connected to a muffler.

    Only dilemma I'm facing now is coming up with a bracket for a throttle cable and for the 200 4r tv cable to use on this Webber. More of the dilemma is that it's on the I6. A v8 would have more mounting options. I previously had ny linkage connected to the factory linkage which pivoted on the doghouse. I want to see if I can use something different to avoid the binding and the attachment to the doghouse. Any ideas or pictures of your brackets on an I6 for tv cable or Webber. If it was just throttle, redline makes a bracket for that but I need to include the tv cable for the 200 4r to pull as the gas pedal pushes.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  6. #86
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    take out the short studs and install longer ones, lock 2 nuts together and tighten as if you don't ever want them vibrating out. it will never be easier than now! the Clifford adaptor should of worked with the webers and cleared. while your carb orientation is correct, you may need to rotate 90 degrees to fit in the dog box. I would address that before tackling the linkage. if you choose to leave carb as it is, you can either use a cable or a bell crank and your linkage. the t.v. cable is much more than kick down and close doesn't cut it. there is no adapter available or the webers that I could find so I made one. I kept all the notes for future use. very crude but exact on specs! last 2 pics are in the trans. plunger bottoms out at full throttle and .820-.860 add idle.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190514_180410.jpg   20190514_183410.jpg   20190514_185715.jpg   20190514_185736.jpg   20190514_180513.jpg  

    20190514_180518.jpg  
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  7. #87
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    is that a single adapter or two separate pieces? I know first hand that cliffords stuff is pricy but their $68 adapter will save you tons of greif.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1431032908714-1024999131.jpg  
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  8. #88
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrinaman View Post
    is that a single adapter or two separate pieces? I know first hand that cliffords stuff is pricy but their $68 adapter will save you tons of greif.
    No, Mine isn't the Clifford brand adapter. I chose to save money lol. Everything I do is on a budget but usually involves finding the expensive proper parts at a cheap price. This time around I was reading, researching and couldn't find a guarantee that any brand spacer would fit my webber properly. Similar dilemma of holes not aligning happened when I got the 1bbl to 2bbl adapter when first installing the webber. I had to grind the holes a bit wider to accept the bolts. So, I went ahead and took a chance on the budget friendly adapter. Final price on that 4bbl to 2bbl adapter was 17.99 on ebay. It was a SPectre brand adapter. The added dilemma on this adapter is the area where the bolt holes are...they are shaped in the shape of a hex bolt or nut. A flattened area would have made life easier on this install. After finding it was binding I bought the separate spacer from redline ebay as well for 16.75

    Thanks for the tips on the bracket. I'll read up on the geometry for tv setup but is there a specific way it should be setup angle wise or just have the right pull pressure?
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  9. #89
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    I made a couple of videos of a walk though of my setup and spacers.
    Apparently I'm having trouble with the video... the embedded code on both are not working. I'll try just putting links to videos here. If you guys can get the embed code and repost for me that would be great. I just like sharing pics and videos....I know most of us are visual people. You can also go to youtube.com and under search type in 66BeachCruiser, and all the videos I've posted will likely pop up.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgw59a7wPS8


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMHC87TFgz8
    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 05-29-2019 at 12:48 AM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  10. #90
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    the amount of pull is the important one, 1.09-1.125". choke/fast idle will throw that off so don't overlook that. the angle is important too but wont burn up your tranny. it starts aprox. 1/3 before tdc and ends 2/3 past. if/when you research this, keep in mind that webers don't rotate the typical 78 degrees! my notes with exact measurements and angles are at the shop but will get them later. I am removing my intake in a few weeks and will be making another t.v. bracket for the new intake. I plan to document it all. both the arm and the bracket will require buying similar and modifying so brand new parts will look like my current glob of welds. any of these are a good starting point but you still need to weld and drill a new hole at the right angle and distance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails carb bracket.jpg   s.jpg   s-l16.jpg   s-l1600.jpg  
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  11. #91
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    all of those are on ebay coming from another continent, 3 week delivery!!! does anyone know where to get these sooner? or even what they are called? the center hole is all that matters as they get cut, welded and drilled.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  12. #92
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Advice on adding v8 crossflow on I6

    I posted this on the Facebook group for advice as well: Anyone running a v8 crossflow radiator in front of their straight six 230/250/292? I'm putting mine in and stock fan barely clears. I have a thin foam sheet in between while mocking it up and just barely squeezes in there. Only reason for crossflow is for added cooling needed because of added accessories I'm adding to my 230 like AC compressor and power steering pump. An aftermarket electric fan doesn't look like it would fit and the v8 shroud definitely won't. I would have to custom make one. Bottom bracket is installed just directly in front of my dual master cylinder so currently not able to move it up further. What are your experiences if any? Fan? Did you guys who did this get better clearance between fan and radiator than I did? Is barely clearing (almost touching) safe? Thoughts? Advice? Thanks.

    66BeachCruiser
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1193.jpg   IMG_1197.jpg  
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  13. #93
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by 66BeachCruiser View Post
    Is barely clearing (almost touching) safe? Thoughts? Advice? Thanks.

    66BeachCruiser
    the rad on the right 'barely fit'! the shiny new one on the left was installed +1/2" forward so close to an inch clearance. it lasted less than 10 feet before fan barely touched it! I had several factors contributing to that. several different trannies over the years with home made mounts forced everything forward. crossmember was tight to front and still left forward tension. the 292 got new brackets and v8 mounts but fabbed to match the forward location. another tranny since then and everything tight to front again. I recently replaced it all and moved a full 2" back! what tranny/how is it mounted? remove a crossmember bolt and see if it is pushed forward (bolt rubs rear of hole). if so, you can gain 1/2"-3/4" right there. if you have stock tranny with hanger, don't bother, it is where it belongs.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  14. #94
    Van Addict SteelyVan's Avatar
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    If the crossflow just doesn't work and you want to consider re-coring your stock downflow rad......here's what worked for me. This was all done with the mindset of some day running A/C. I had my rad (downflow) redone with more rows. I also mounted a Flex-a-Lite 160 fan that comes with its own shroud (as a puller) and yanked my clutch fan. I shimmed the rad forward about 1-1/2" and partially tucked it under the curved top lips of the doghouse. I have just enough room to change a alt/water pump belt. The fan pulls 3,000 cfm and has its own adjustable on/off thermostat....plus a compressor sensor relay that turns-on fan when A/C is requested.

    SV

  15. #95
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    I do have my stock I6 radiator recored. I could have ran with that but seeing as I had a crossflow radiator and 2nd doghouse with appropriate brackets this was my opportunity to put the best cooling I could. I wish I could gain more inches up front. By placing the actual doghouse on top on to the radiator it did tilt it a bit forward. Clearance towards the bottom is still sketchy. 2nd gens are made different, and the sixes in second gens seem to have more space including the use of a spacer on the fans. Not so on a first gen.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  16. #96
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrinaman View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMAG0005.jpg 
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ID:	40189 the rad on the right 'barely fit'! the shiny new one on the left was installed +1/2" forward so close to an inch clearance. it lasted less than 10 feet before fan barely touched it! I had several factors contributing to that. several different trannies over the years with home made mounts forced everything forward. crossmember was tight to front and still left forward tension. the 292 got new brackets and v8 mounts but fabbed to match the forward location. another tranny since then and everything tight to front again. I recently replaced it all and moved a full 2" back! what tranny/how is it mounted? remove a crossmember bolt and see if it is pushed forward (bolt rubs rear of hole). if so, you can gain 1/2"-3/4" right there. if you have stock tranny with hanger, don't bother, it is where it belongs.
    Thanks for some tips Jrinaman. I have a 2004r using the stock mount location/crossmember. The actual crossmember can be moved rearward since it's no longer tack welded like stock, it's bolted on. If I did move it back, would I have to shorten the driveshaft? I wonder what makes a second gen have more room in front of a six including using a spacer on the fan. 1st gens have no spacer and are really close to the fan in stock form. Dual master cylinder on my first should be in same location as a second right? Maybe crossmember is different? Is driveshaft shorter on a second gen? I know a V8 upgrade being a shorter block would probably have good clearance. Instead of moving things back, I might just go ahead and remove the dual master to make room and actually make the idea happen and install the hydroboost rearward with an extended pushrod. I'll try to post pictures of what the radiator looks like with the doghouse in place.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  17. #97
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    It's pretty dark between the fan and radiator to see good clearance unless I shine a light.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1206.jpg   IMG_1207.jpg   IMG_1210.jpg   IMG_1211.jpg   IMG_1221.jpg  

    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  18. #98
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    This is where my bracket currently sits
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1228.jpg  
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  19. #99
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 66BeachCruiser View Post
    I have a 2004r using the stock mount location/crossmember. The actual crossmember can be moved rearward since it's no longer tack welded like stock, it's bolted on. If I did move it back, would I have to shorten the driveshaft? Maybe crossmember is different? Is driveshaft shorter on a second gen?
    first and second gens have a different crossmember and driveshaft, don't know which is shorter or how much. your driveshaft yoke should have 1" exposed, meaning it can travel an inch into trans before busting stuff. if and only if you can calculate the location at its extreme, you can cut it a bit closer. all that becomes a bigger can of worms if your engine crossmember is already to the rearmost extreme. mainly, I was suggesting you check to see if yours shifted forward as mine did, that is an easy and free way to gain up to an inch (more if you extend the slots). IF the second gens have a shorter shaft and crossmember setting engine back, that would solve the mystery of the fan spacer/lack of and give you a cheap bolt in solution. if nobody here posts, ask over at VV. I think it was donavan that posted pics of the different crossmembers and shafts.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  20. #100
    Van Addict SteelyVan's Avatar
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    Ooops....I too now remember a side-by-side pic of 1st vs 2nd gen crossmembers. The perch locations and pitch differences were very apparent. I see (too) the dual master upgrade isn't helping either. Sorry about my assumption.

  21. #101
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    I've been searching for a first and second gen crossmember comparison picture but no luck. If anyone here has a picture of the crossmembers side to side and driveshaft side to side from 1st and second gen please post a picture. Meantime, I took off dual master and definitely plenty room to try and move the radiator further up a bit. That would now bring me into the dilemma of beginning another project (hydroboost, figuring out hoses, fabing up a mounting bracket, and figuring out an extended push rod. I was hoping that would be down the line.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1229.jpg  
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  22. #102
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    found a second gen crossmember in the corner of my garage. not really a side by side comparison but first gen swings forward a good bit, second gen almost flat with motor mount in line with front bolt. Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	40285 you can see in this pic how the first gen crossmember is twisted to move everything forward. not sure how much and aint taking it off for a pic. my motor mount pillars were cut and fabbed new ones for small block mounts and the new location of 292 passenger mount. regardless, second gen crossmember sets it back farther. Click image for larger version. 

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    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  23. #103
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing the difference. Would definitely be nice to have a 2nd gen crossmember in my stash. So is the driveshaft on a second gen slightly shorter?
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  24. #104
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    I'm using a hydroboost out of a 90s Astro van. The mounting bracket was slanted so I believe it was from a 97. 95 and prior years used the flat bracket I believe, which is the ideal bracket. I went back for a flat bracket when I had a chance. I ordered a 3 piece seal kit to replace seals inside. I opened up the hydrobooster even though new seals aren't here yet so I could a get better access to the hydroboost pushrod. For this install I will need a longer pushrod and create a 90 degree bracket to install hydrobooster to the frame rail. Before opening it up I cut the the pushrod in two pieces and I began using a die to create threads to add coupling nuts and create an extension. You don't have to open it up to make threads on the rod. I had it on a vice but due to the clearance from how my vice is mounted it was a daunting task...so I opened it up to see. A lot of sensitive items attached to the rod. We'll see how this goes....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1239.jpg   IMG_1237.jpg   IMG_1235.jpg  
    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 08-25-2019 at 10:42 PM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  25. #105
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 66BeachCruiser View Post
    Thanks for sharing the difference. Would definitely be nice to have a 2nd gen crossmember in my stash. So is the driveshaft on a second gen slightly shorter?
    I forgot I even had the crossmember. driveshaft is from a 108 so too long. shipping would be high from 16063 and would pay it again on your shaft. ask mark or someone on the west coast and if you cant find them both, I will send mine.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  26. #106
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    I haven’t posted an update in a while. It’s been hard to get good time to work consistently on the van but I have continued and have taken pictures and videos. I’ll be putting some videos on YouTube later and copying link here when I do. Here’s what my 97 astrovan Hydroboost looks like opened up. Important part is getting all the seals out. There’s an 8 figure seal for mating both sides that sits on the base of one half of the Hydroboost. There’s a round seal on the entry surface of the bore on the 2nd half if the Hydroboost , two small seals on the pushrod shaft, and another small seal on a plug, and a small valve that gets replaced. One more small o ring in the threaded hole where the return line gets connected. Last picture shows everything that gets replaced. Only thing I didn’t mess with was the gold canister. Gold canister is a compressed gas. Don’t want to mess with that. I believe it’s called an accumulator. I’ll post the kit I used to button it up next. The pushrod is attached to a cylinder shaped mechanism that slides in the bore so once it was out I wrapped it up to protect it while I threaded the end to make an adjustable pushrod.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 27120AFE-F628-465A-81F4-1CA692088940.jpg   CD9B2CD6-287B-437A-9BA1-DC6275DAAD8B.jpg   239DCC45-4F38-484B-AEF6-5284B6554F3F.jpg   697D2E1D-66B1-4358-A344-02C74EC5038E.jpg   D096B3B8-1079-4E5B-BAD7-244AC0E5D1B9.jpg  

    EC2ECE87-DEA3-4A04-B9BD-852C2320EF0A.jpg   D3A8BD29-F5B1-4A67-9C0F-5FC274F14B7D.jpg   9837744D-59D9-4F6E-9B4C-21BA6C9FCF7E.jpg   49592A6C-DA84-48A0-9628-5C7D87C0A046.jpg   F774A95B-7BD7-4EB9-8458-D40A4A26C3BA.jpg  

    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 03-09-2020 at 11:16 PM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  27. #107
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Here’s the kit I used (pictured). Pirate Jack. 23.00/free shipping. My address and name is on the invoice. It’s ok. Here’s a link but says it comes from China so not sure current situation on purchases coming from that region right now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-2771004-...t/200949312875 Worked great! Included everything needed including all seals, small valve, and the star shaped clip at the end holding the pushrod and a c clip retainer. I reused both the original clips. It was a trick to wiggle both halves of the Hydroboost to fit back together. Everything was cleaned out, dried, and put back together bathing everything in power steering fluid as each item went back in.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 4BE43902-7E27-4D17-8337-A59D8EB878A6.jpg   F25814B5-0D20-41AC-8AA3-950B5223670E.jpg   5FA8FCEC-A171-46E0-A4C8-84D5ECC6A122.jpg   74AD2619-B418-4423-8447-BF1731EB6E28.jpg   0116027D-BD88-425E-BA97-D6B5A1EB604E.jpg  

    73EEE55D-5FE9-4D1E-8F1B-6269E23956E7.jpg   C0324A77-5D13-48AA-B689-19E936FDD7A1.jpg  
    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 03-09-2020 at 11:48 PM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  28. #108
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    I’m planning on using the 2nd gen cross flow radiator setup so that means the bottom radiator bracket will be needing to be bolted in place. I unbolted the corvette master cylinder I had in place without disconnecting lines. The original first gen radiator bracket was taken off. What was left attached to the frame were some triangular shaped brackets on each side of the frame attached by two bolts each at the frame and by one bolt through the floor. Those came off. What remained were two bolt holes at the frame rails on each side. The plan is to use the bolt holes to create a bolt on Hydroboost system. That’s where a 90 degree bracket got created. I’ll be using the existing bolt holes at the frame rail walls. An initial mock up bracket was made. It clears the radiator with only pushrod going by the side of the radiator and Hydroboost unit clearing on the engine side. With the Hydroboost attached it shows how the pushrod is inappropriately angled. You can see in the different pictures through the floor plug hole and a side view how the rod is angled. The bracket has to place the hydrobooster to where the pushrod is perfectly centered from Hydroboost to pedal attachment. The pushrod has to be long now to clear away from the radiator. To create the adjustable pushrod I purchased some solid rods with threaded ends that matched my adjusting nuts. I can send a link when I find them. My rod was too long and did have to cut and re thread one end using die cutting tools. I also took out the stock pushrod out of my master cylinder and threaded the end to match. With threads on the Hydroboost rod and threads on the break pedal rod side, the center long rod was connected to each end using long adjustable nuts and extra nuts to lock them on each side. The mockup bracket was also flimsy causing the booster to move as the pedal was pressed. A couple more solid and reconfigured brackets have been mocked up. A final one is in the works to accommodate future installations and inclusion of rods etc. Before attempting this setup I hadn’t seen another Hydroboost setup and kept researching and finally found a post where I saw GreyGhost post a picture of a setup he did. So, seeing as to he having had success in his install I have been picking Terry’s brain little by little. Thanks Terry. Next update will show a better version of a bracket and I’m still playing with different master cylinder bore options.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 69F50425-9A1B-43F1-9AC5-54B40769A27A.jpg   2F8FEBF7-BAB4-47A2-926C-426F836643FE.jpg   3E9DA47B-FDF9-4B38-B2CF-C5774F01732A.jpg   658BBE60-9DE2-4341-AB2D-84D5C0C3A3B5.jpg   3B5ACC83-9B55-4FBA-80DE-E00D333D836C.jpg  

    E61DE7D0-27C1-4C38-BA33-DD8C1EC9213C.jpg   831AC6EA-7D29-4BC3-A710-2FE995C46EB3.jpg   F932E813-D722-45F6-8738-60BE86132C61.jpg  
    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 03-10-2020 at 02:02 AM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  29. #109
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    The original mock up bracket was too weak, small in gauge size. To get the pushrod to be centered the bracket had to place the Hydroboost an inch lower and an inch further away from the frame. Once I did a cardboard version I cut up the orange bracket out of something laying around. As I pressed the brake pedal it made the bracket and Hydroboost move, so not as steady as I would like. Mark (108VanGuy) was in town at one point and stopped by and was hoping he’d lend a hand and help me get going on my van. Nope. All he did was help de clutter and organize my garage. He spent a good part of a whole day doing that before heading out but he did say send that bracket to me like you want it and I’ll make it solid. We are going back and forth while I mock the Hydroboost up with the different brackets. The gold one In the third picture would be ideal but it’s not made up for our our setup. When I went for a small visit to Sacramento we played with adding a long or smaller gussets to support the bracket. He welded small gussets to keep clearance at the top for possible rods that can still be in place. I no longer have my throttle rod due to changing to throttle cable but we are just looking ahead in creating a final bracket that others can use when wanting to do a future bolt on Hydroboost installation. On the next Hydroboost bracket post I’ll show the latest revision of the bracket to allow for my automatic transmission rod clearance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 63A649B5-C901-4F07-8AF6-63BB7EE715FF.jpg   EDBDD055-BAA5-47DC-B8BC-4D56F699DBF2.jpg   8AFCD20C-E9C2-468A-BFA4-0A9C25031202.jpg   39CBA8CB-8A49-4DE5-858F-ADD551F25378.jpg   E624FC18-A232-4BBE-B2F0-797CC5963983.jpg  

    E572473A-8762-4AB0-BFEE-1326F9FD995E.jpg  
    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 03-10-2020 at 10:07 PM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  30. #110
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    Wink Wow, Really?

    Quote Originally Posted by 66BeachCruiser View Post
    All he did was help de clutter and organize my garage.
    Dude, that was more of an intervention.
    108VanGuy...
    1969 Chevy Panel, 250 CID, 3 ring 4 Spd. with OD, 2.73 "WedgieVan" Daily Driver
    1967 Chevy Panel, 230 CID, 3 Spd. 3.36 "UtiliVan" 292 TFI coming. Owned since 76
    1964 GMC Panel, 194 CID, 3 Spd. "CrunchoVan"
    1965 GMC HandiBus Custom, 194 CID, 3 Spd. "MilkVan" Seized Engine
    1965 Chevy Panel 350 CID, 3 Spd. "RustoRoof" Runs but wiring bad
    1969 Chevy 108 Display 307 CID THM 350 Power Brakes 3.73 Posi
    1965 Chevy Panel, V8, 3 Spd. "Gold Hills Van" Best body of my 65s
    1965 CamperVan, V8, 3 Spd.

  31. #111
    VCVC Member Russell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 66BeachCruiser View Post
    It's pretty dark between the fan and radiator to see good clearance unless I shine a light.
    That fan isn't the original, The stock fan is much flatter?
    Last edited by Russell; 03-11-2020 at 12:32 PM.
    1966 Sportvan Deluxe 230 3 on tree (work in progress) Now 283 small block
    1965 Sportvan Deluxe 250 powerglide (Sold)
    1965 Chevy Van Panel (Project)

  32. #112
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 108VanGuy View Post
    Dude, that was more of an intervention.
    108VanGuy...
    It sure was! I have my garage back. Thanks for the big push! Mark helped me big! I had no garage space due to storage use. I made good use of 2 sheds Iíve been planning to organize things in, to make room in my garage. Thanks Mark! That alone was needed in order to do progress
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  33. #113
    VCVC Member SAVAGE's Avatar
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    Mark Knows how to organize & pack parts
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0674.jpg   IMG_0673.jpg  
    Tom

  34. #114
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SAVAGE View Post
    Mark Knows how to organize & pack parts
    That definitely looks like his work lol.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  35. #115
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russell View Post
    That fan isn't the original, The stock fan is much flatter?
    Iíll have to pull out the original. Although I would never go back to a 4 blade lol. I upgraded to 5 blade and was great. I found this six blade and was even better. Thanks for the observation Russell. Iíll put all 3 side by side soon. Ideally I want to put my electric Mark VI fan If I can. If I canít Iíll have to take a closer look at the mechanical fans and see if the 5 blade is flatter than the six blade.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  36. #116
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    These are pictures of adding the gussets to the bracket. Cardboard version shows the idea for the long support and also smaller gussets in the crease of the bracket. We went with small gussets. Because I’m using my transmission rod and possibly other people too, we decided if a notch can be achieved to accommodate a try of passing through it should be done. It was notched and a rod is sliding through nicely. I tried both a first gen and a second gen automatic transmission rod. They both go through without rubbing. I will have to remove the bracket close to the engine cross member that holds the brake cable pulley and allows for 2 rods to be guided through in order to allow clearance for the master cylinder where it will be connected to the Hydroboost. Since I’m still using 1 rod, cutting half of it off in order to retain the pulley position will work to allow clearance for my new master cylinder. The complete bracket will not work. And only 1 rod max will work. I’m using a throttle cable and other people can use a trans cable if they’d like.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 0783C0F1-FEE3-44C8-9AB4-09B2CC0308A4.jpg   2FD8503C-85C5-4956-ABDA-62B489968ED1.jpg   0D21A7EC-0C34-4ABF-AB15-1523F8473A67.jpg   25B6D863-C076-4BBD-A0C2-9071DB78709A.jpg   C57AF1C6-DB11-4184-B34E-56F4519DE822.jpg  

    252FCC96-A41B-4E55-B05E-B522AB06DB59.jpg   C2B6B17D-B697-4D26-9202-F943AD98ABC7.jpg   48164C7F-D46E-44DE-A114-B152DA7D12E2.jpg   C47EC32F-85AC-4D4B-A1C3-CD7BAE7FD794.jpg   05E6E753-0C92-49CF-9E07-7BC85D6E6B53.jpg  

    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 03-12-2020 at 09:13 AM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  37. #117
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Hydro boost Master Cylinder decisions

    I’ve been trying to figure out the best master cylinder to use for this hydro boost setup. This hydro booster came out of a 97 Astro van so originally I decided to buy the 97 Astro master (NM2779) which has a 1.25 bore and aluminum with plastic reservoir at 2.19 lbs. This is what came on this factory setup with this exact hydro booster. I mocked up the master and it fit nicely in the space with perfect clearance. The lightweight of it is ideal so as not to add additional stress. The negative is that I forgot the 97 Astro hydro booster is factory installed in the Astro with a bracket that is angled putting the hydro booster angled down. So the 97 master comes with an angled reservoir only meant for the downward mount. It might work installed leveled but didn’t want to attempt it, not yet. So if I wanted to stay with the 1.25 bore master that came with the 90s Astro setup, the one to get would be the years (92-95) with the straight bracket that has the hydro booster installed leveled. So 95 Astro master (NM2534)would be a next choice with a 1.25 bore aluminum with plastic reservoir and 2.67 lbs., but the plastic reservoir doesn’t look ideal (smaller). You would need to constantly check and fill so air doesn’t get in the system. I believe you can change the plastic reservoir to a bigger one if you do want to keep the 1.25 bore master. After much research the other 2 master cylinders that seem ideal within the hydro booster upgrade Internet forum articles and posts are the 1” bore master and the rare 1.125” bore. I figured I already have a 1” master with my manual disc/drum setup. Adding power to brakes I wanted to attempt the 1.125” bore. If I loose power I hopefully don’t loose too much pedal feel was my theory. After a lot of searching I found that a 1997 Chevrolet Express G1500 van has a 1.125 bore aluminum master with plastic reservoir at 2.86lbs (NM3035). I exchanged the previous master and got this 1.125 master. It is observably bigger. I mocked it up and there’s enough clearance issues to consider modifying the 90 degree bracket to be installed a bit further up. Cutting it close to not get in the way of a radiator that will be permanently in place. The NM3035 master is binding on to the engine cross member by just a hair. The Astro van master is an ideal size but the 97 express van master may be the better bore size, so might make it work. The NM part numbers on all these master are AutoZone numbers. The Express van master NM3035 is the most expensive unfortunately. You will find a better deal at Rockauto which is why I posted year and model. I’m learning myself so if there’s any good knowledge to share or comment please do so. As soon as it stops raining I’ll try to mock this setup on again. I got caught by the rain last time. The next issue will also be clearance needed for the proportioning valve as it usually gets bolted on a bracket attached to the master cylinder bolt and sticks out further than the master.
    Can’t wait to make this work and try out this master.

    Let me add that I say rare 1.125 bore master because I’m looking for a lightweight aluminum master that ideally came in a hydro boost setup. Can’t find one. The Express van model was my only find. There are 70s, ex. 1977 corvette master cylinders with 1.125 bores but not aluminum (weighing 8.98lbs)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 3E082A37-F18A-4EBA-AF4E-120E3F2A54F9.jpg   5DE09B31-6CD0-415B-80A0-2EBD7954AA72.jpg   AD9285A7-265E-4329-ACD0-BA25CD985452.jpg   B07394DF-1A43-442E-A6ED-A298CFFF036D.jpg   42DB8A83-E0B8-48D9-AB6D-5A8874EDBFCD.jpg  

    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 03-17-2020 at 07:13 PM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  38. #118
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Hydroboost video

    Here's a video of that mock up and clearance.


    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  39. #119
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Those of you interested in seeing a power steering bracket setup on a Chevy 230/250/292 straight six I made a YouTube video specifically to show the setup. Here it is. Subscribe and like. I’ll be making more videos on hose setup videos related to the hydro booster and the power steering assist using a 1974 Ford F-250 setup, and 200r4 related stuff

    https://youtu.be/TOxUOOyu-hk

    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  40. #120
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Iíve been picking at the projects a little each day. Iíve mocked up the power assist cylinder using a custom 90 degree bracket I made at the stem side attached to the center link and a factory f250 bracket on the other end attached to the straight axle. I was happy with the setup. I received a second gen cross member and driveshaft in the mail a couple weeks ago. Thank you Derrick. Iím hoping this setup will move my engine back a bit , allowing me to put a proper puller fan. Got to grinding and using a wire wheel right away. Primed and painted. They look great with Fresh paint.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails C922BA36-FCF6-4990-BBD1-CE4346F4E21E.jpg   B29C47E4-F907-4C02-89AD-15B22DAA4383.jpg   5EADAF5D-FAC2-4C37-9AC2-F4B5222BB25A.jpg   7EB6B3FC-0305-43EE-AF31-EF8EC1E07F94.jpg   5F5E97A0-9814-4294-B81E-AE1550F5D9FB.jpg  

    6CFC4D75-BEBD-4BF2-8E70-70DB90659C7B.jpg   FE7B0389-0CF0-4416-AAAA-8E1A17BFDEC2.jpg   64AADCD1-5211-480C-8F48-2B324385182D.jpg   B6B310CA-4A8A-4747-A5A4-D1C07E11D852.jpg   8C7539C0-C6D6-484F-BDB8-A1D06DC7723B.jpg  

    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

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