Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 125

Thread: Upgrading Cam

  1. #1
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Upgrading Cam

    There's several ideas in the works for my van such as AC, power steering pump for steering and possibly hydraulic brake booster. I've only collected parts. I installed my recently refreshed head in the 230 and went ahead and took off the original doghouse to make room for accessories I want to add, and more airflow, plus later on be ready for a v8 swap. So a v8 doghouse will be put on. Right now I'm having fun playing with this 230. Got me a Clifford intake, split headers, v6 power steering bracket, pulleys and pump. For now I was going to just button it up but since I lifted the engine up and it's sitting with wood blocks between the engine mounts and now no doghouse in the way.....I measured that there was enough clearance to pull out the CAM. I went ahead and pulled it out. It's CAM upgrade time
    Not taking engine out.
    For now I'm thinking a marine Cam.

    Question: Do I need a name brand like COM CAM or can I just order from my local Car Quest? And any duration numbers to stick with? I want better than stock but not radical at all.

    Question 2: Do I need to change out the CAM bushings or can I leave the ones on there. I saw light scratching shown in pictures on the first bushing but did try lightly sanding off scratch with 1000 grit.


    First picture is showing how I used a hammer and a chisel to go under the doghouse lip and knock out the spot welds
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9190.jpg   IMG_9192.jpg  
    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 11-17-2018 at 03:36 PM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  2. #2
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Two screws need to be removed that hold down the camshaft onto the block. I struggled for a long while twisting and turning wondering why the cam was hung up and not coming out. By only following what I remembered and not reading the book I forgot that the fuel pump had to come out as well. I realized that as I was turning the CAM fuel started coming out the fuel line. Easy as pie once I removed the fuel pump. It came out smoothly. Unfortunately I saw tiny scratching likely due to that struggle earlier.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9209.jpg   IMG_9213.jpg   IMG_9212.jpg   IMG_9214.jpg   IMG_9215.jpg  

    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  3. #3
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    And I will add some questions to this, concerning the timing gears. I will upgrade to aluminum timing gears since original has nylon (mine still looks solid). With CAM off I can upgrade the gear on the CAM but the Crankshaft gear has no visible space behind the gear for a puller and the gear itself doesn't have screw holes to screw in a puller like in the books.

    Anyone remove a gear on a 230 while in engine or have recommendations? Leave that gear alone and just upgrade the CAM gear? Or Tap the gear sprocket for screw holes to screw in a puller? Ideas?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9216.jpg  
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  4. #4
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    zelienople, pa.
    Posts
    2,453
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    http://www.inliners.org/tech/cams250.pdfheat it up and it should slide off, but I would just reuse it since everything else besides the cam is old/worn anyways. the comp cams 268 would be a good cam, probably the most duration you could go without a stall converter. I ran their 292 version in my 250 (still 268 advertised but slightly more lift and duration) headers, 2 barrel and decked the head 100/1000". lots of power and none of the big cam issues. when comparing cams, look at duration@0.50". 218 would be about as far as you should go. for lift, more is better. 212 would be more like an r.v. cam and add a little everywhere but nothing huge. inliners has cam specs for aftermarket and marine cams on their site. also check out howards cams, the 213 would be another decent cam if the 268 (218) scares you. both available threw summit.
    Last edited by jrinaman; 11-17-2018 at 09:52 PM.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  5. #5
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    zelienople, pa.
    Posts
    2,453
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  6. #6
    Certifiable Vanatic Z-Machine (aka VanZack)'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Rockport, WA
    Posts
    606
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by jrinaman View Post
    http://www.inliners.org/tech/cams250.pdfheat it up and it should slide off, but I would just reuse it since everything else besides the cam is old/worn anyways. the comp cams 268 would be a good cam, probably the most duration you could go without a stall converter. I ran their 292 version in my 250 (still 268 advertised but slightly more lift and duration) headers, 2 barrel and decked the head 100/1000". lots of power and none of the big cam issues. when comparing cams, look at duration@0.50". 218 would be about as far as you should go. for lift, more is better. 212 would be more like an r.v. cam and add a little everywhere but nothing huge. inliners has cam specs for aftermarket and marine cams on their site. also check out howards cams, the 213 would be another decent cam if the 268 (218) scares you. both available threw summit.
    I noticed this cam sheet doesn't include the 292. Is it different regarding cams?
    1969 G10 108, 307 V8, TH350, 3.08 gears
    1966 G10 Panel, 194 I6, three on the tree (I think it's an old Ma Bell van)

  7. #7
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    zelienople, pa.
    Posts
    2,453
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Z-Machine (aka VanZack) View Post
    I noticed this cam sheet doesn't include the 292. Is it different regarding cams?
    the cams are basically the same except for the fuel pump lobe. no idea why comp cams increased spes but still called it a 268. what I had was 219 @ .50 and 510-520? lift. the 230/250 version is slightly less at 218 so I can not see any overcam issues. consider wacking some metal off the head while it is apart! 60/1000 will give a noticable bump in compression and 100/1000 ran on 89 but I always used 91-93. cheap horsepower, just had a head milled yesterday for $60 buck.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  8. #8
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for both links. The 260H cam with 212 duration at .050 could be great. The milder 252H with 206 duration might be what I may be aiming for.

    The Howards Cams look promising! Good price too!

    There's a cam @ .050 207 duration - Described as: smooth idle, strong low end, good vacuum, good fuel economy

    There's a cam @ .050 213 duration - Described as: Good idle, street, off-road, towing, good fuel efficiency

    what to choose.....
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  9. #9
    VCVC Member joyrde's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Lodi, Ohio USA
    Posts
    2,876
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    All the above is great advice . . . . that said . . . if A/C & power steering are in your future, I suggest you install the V-8 first, Six Cylinders struggle at free way speeds, in stock form. They do a little better when "built-up" which is much more costly than a V-8.

    Install a v-8 - - - literally a bolt-in

  10. #10
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by joyrde View Post
    All the above is great advice . . . . that said . . . if A/C & power steering are in your future, I suggest you install the V-8 first, Six Cylinders struggle at free way speeds, in stock form. They do a little better when "built-up" which is much more costly than a V-8.

    Install a v-8 - - - literally a bolt-in
    Thanks Joyrde, for that advice. The v8 will surely be in this vans future. And I know I could easily skip all this and just switch in a v8 but I just want to upgrade this six and use it a little longer. I've already got the head done and installed, I've bought the bigger manifold and cast dual headers. I'm hoping the upgraded power that it will have will be good for handling the extra AC compresor and power steering pump. That being said, should I go a little more with the one that says it's good for towing(213 duration @ .050) instead of the one with 207 @ .050? 207 is still better than the stock cam at 177 duration. ????
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  11. #11
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    zelienople, pa.
    Posts
    2,453
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    any cam claiming 'good for towing' would be an upgrade for a daily driver. the problem with too much duration is you give up a little off idle to gain a bunch up higher. 'towing' implies off idle gains. going in blind, I would be conservative but having ran a 219 in a similar engine, most any smaller cam would be safe. X2 on what joyride said. everything costs more and nets less gain on a six. while my 292 has much more power than stock, a 350 with headers, 4 barrel and a conservative cam has already matched the h.p.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  12. #12
    VCVC Member joyrde's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Lodi, Ohio USA
    Posts
    2,876
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by 66BeachCruiser View Post
    Thanks Joyrde, for that advice. The v8 will surely be in this vans future. And I know I could easily skip all this and just switch in a v8 but I just want to upgrade this six and use it a little longer. I've already got the head done and installed, I've bought the bigger manifold and cast dual headers. I'm hoping the upgraded power that it will have will be good for handling the extra AC compresor and power steering pump. That being said, should I go a little more with the one that says it's good for towing(213 duration @ .050) instead of the one with 207 @ .050? 207 is still better than the stock cam at 177 duration. ????
    Call or email Comp Cam - - - tell them exactly what you have - - - engine-wise - - head work ? Comp ratio ? intake/carbs - exhaust (duals & pipe diameter) distributor/ignition type - - trans type - rear gear ratio - - overall height of your rear tires - - - engine accessories (A/C / etc) - - - most common type of driving.

    Go with whatever they suggest

    http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/C...amHelpNew.aspx

    I totally understand your choice - - - i know there are members who swear by their "Sixes" - - for me speaking from experience, a V-8 is an instant major hp/torque/mpg upgrade. I bought our first Van in 1973 ('64 GMC 90" WB) it had a 230/6 cyl-3-speed stick 3.36 rear gears. top speed was just over 75 mph. Fuel economy - 15 hwy - - - installed a bone stock 283 4bbl - - - the Van would go sideways shifting into 2nd gear. Hwy speed cruising was a lot quieter - - - mpg - - 18 @ 65 mph

    Sixes with split manfolds and dual Cheery Bomb mufflers sound awesome

    My cam suggeetion would be this one (complete kit) - - http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ct_Code=981-12

    If you have never installed a cam, or scratched any of the cam bearings removing the old cam, you MUST replace the cam bearings
    Last edited by joyrde; 11-18-2018 at 02:03 PM.

  13. #13
    VCVC Member kookykrispy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Apple Valley, CA
    Posts
    8,518
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Thumbs up Delta Cam

    I suggest you consider calling Delta Camshaft in Tacoma, WA. They are an old school shop that has been around since the 70's. All they do is camshafts. they can custom grind any cam profile you want, (including for 230/250 inline six) and the price is reasonable. I have used Delta cams for my last three engine builds, and was very pleased.

    Call them up, and tell them all about your engine, what upgrades you have installed, and describe your application and intended usage. They will custom grind you a camshaft that is perfectly matched to your engine with the upgrades and to your specific application. All for about the same cost as you would pay for an off the shelf grind.

    http://deltacam.com



    64' wikivan 230/4 onda tree/2.56 posi
    '64 Red Baron no engine/trans
    '66 "Lucky" 230/3 onda tree/project

    Quote Originally Posted by Vanner68 View Post
    Remember, they're still printing money, but they aren't making any more earlies!

  14. #14
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by kookykrispy View Post
    I suggest you consider calling Delta Camshaft in Tacoma, WA. They are an old school shop that has been around since the 70's. All they do is camshafts. they can custom grind any cam profile you want, (including for 230/250 inline six) and the price is reasonable. I have used Delta cams for my last three engine builds, and was very pleased.

    Call them up, and tell them all about your engine, what upgrades you have installed, and describe your application and intended usage. They will custom grind you a camshaft that is perfectly matched to your engine with the upgrades and to your specific application. All for about the same cost as you would pay for an off the shelf grind.

    http://deltacam.com
    Wow, talk about more than reasonable. I called Delta, with the plan for calling Comp Cams, and Howard's after but after talking to the guy at Delta I didn't even bother. Going to send my CAM as a core in the mail and send it over to them. After talking details on the type of use I want out of my motor, a 207 or 208 grind was recommended. He asked if I needed lifters and said I do. I asked if he carried timing gears as well. He said yes. I asked if they would put it on for me. No more nylon gear. He said they would install it for me. Not until the end did I ask what I was looking at as far as price. He said camshaft and lifters were going to be about 100. Extra for gear but great price.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  15. #15
    VCVC Member Wookee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Joppa Maryland U.S.A.
    Posts
    15,769
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Cool

    When ever I replace a cam I all ways replace the lifters.
    This way you have two correct machined surfaces working with each other..
    Its a "van thing". A life style you have to live to understand!!!!

  16. #16
    VCVC Member kookykrispy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Apple Valley, CA
    Posts
    8,518
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Thumbs up hard to beat Delta cam!

    Quote Originally Posted by 66BeachCruiser View Post
    Wow, talk about more than reasonable. I called Delta, with the plan for calling Comp Cams, and Howard's after but after talking to the guy at Delta I didn't even bother. Going to send my CAM as a core in the mail and send it over to them. After talking details on the type of use I want out of my motor, a 207 or 208 grind was recommended. He asked if I needed lifters and said I do. I asked if he carried timing gears as well. He said yes. I asked if they would put it on for me. No more nylon gear. He said they would install it for me. Not until the end did I ask what I was looking at as far as price. He said camshaft and lifters were going to be about 100. Extra for gear but great price.
    That's awesome. Yes I love Delta camshaft. They are like a well kept secret. I will never buy an off the shelf cam again. Why would you, when you can get a custom grind for less money? I put a custom delta cam in the supercharged 400 that I built for Hella Sunshine, I have a custom delta grind in the 350 in my '68 camaro, and I put a custom delta roller cam in the 454 I built for my buddy's chevelle. Each build was great and the cam seemed perfect for each application. And their prices are always lower than you would expect. Don't forget to ask for your free t-shirt!



    64' wikivan 230/4 onda tree/2.56 posi
    '64 Red Baron no engine/trans
    '66 "Lucky" 230/3 onda tree/project

    Quote Originally Posted by Vanner68 View Post
    Remember, they're still printing money, but they aren't making any more earlies!

  17. #17
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I put my CAM with nylon gear still in place in a box and shipped it on its way to Delta Camshafts. Can't wait to hear from them once they receive it.

    I went to ship it to a local shipping store that does shipping through UPS, FedEx, and USPS because I didn't want to waste further time in FedEx and USPS websites trying to figure out price. I wanted a quote before committing to shipping this box. It was 41" long by 7"x7". Weighed 14bs. Didn't realize that's all it weighed. But price to ship was ridiculous at this store. $140, $120, Over $100!! I was mad. I said I wanted the cheapest way possible. No hurry on shipping. He said I can discount $10 but that is still about $90. No way! I was even asking if maybe I got a smaller box. I couldn't picture a business sending me a $100 cam and lifters and paying $100 to ship to me. Or charging $100 to ship. It should be the same thing me shipping the other way. I said I'd be back and check out my options. If He could discount that meant for me, that wasn't the final/real price. I drove a distance to a FedEx location and I said the cheapest way possible. The lady never weighed it, just measured and said ground is the cheapest. It was about $20. I was happy. Can't believe either the guy couldn't find the ground/cheapest option or he was just a rip off. I can do $20 and I'm sure if I took the gear off and made a skinnier box it would have been cheaper. Just a warning for you all. Sorry for the rant! Happy Thanksgiving! Spending it in Scottsdale Arizona Today.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  18. #18
    VCVC Member joyrde's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Lodi, Ohio USA
    Posts
    2,876
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by 66BeachCruiser View Post
    I put my CAM with nylon gear still in place in a box and shipped it on its way to Delta Camshafts. Can't wait to hear from them once they receive it.

    I went to ship it to a local shipping store that does shipping through UPS, FedEx, and USPS because I didn't want to waste further time in FedEx and USPS websites trying to figure out price. I wanted a quote before committing to shipping this box. It was 41" long by 7"x7". Weighed 14bs. Didn't realize that's all it weighed. But price to ship was ridiculous at this store. $140, $120, Over $100!! I was mad. I said I wanted the cheapest way possible. No hurry on shipping. He said I can discount $10 but that is still about $90. No way! I was even asking if maybe I got a smaller box. I couldn't picture a business sending me a $100 cam and lifters and paying $100 to ship to me. Or charging $100 to ship. It should be the same thing me shipping the other way. I said I'd be back and check out my options. If He could discount that meant for me, that wasn't the final/real price. I drove a distance to a FedEx location and I said the cheapest way possible. The lady never weighed it, just measured and said ground is the cheapest. It was about $20. I was happy. Can't believe either the guy couldn't find the ground/cheapest option or he was just a rip off. I can do $20 and I'm sure if I took the gear off and made a skinnier box it would have been cheaper. Just a warning for you all. Sorry for the rant! Happy Thanksgiving! Spending it in Scottsdale Arizona Today.
    For converstaion - - ONLY - - - each of us have our preferred methods, vendors, "go-to's" - - - - Like KK & Delta, I have always found Comp Cam spot on with recommendations - - - for BC's build - - - this is the recommended Cam & Kit - - - $354.00 delivered - - - if there is an issue free return shipping - - - for me, with Summit Racing 40 minutes away - - - no return hassles, ever

    The Cam Kit - - http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=K61-233-4&Category_Code=

    through Summit - - https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=K61-233-4




  19. #19
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Today, I received my camshaft from Delta. It came in the same box I sent it in but new cam was wrapped better. The Cam came with new cam timing gear in place. It came with the pair of aluminum gears and a set of lifters. I unpacked it out of the box because I couldn't wait but haven't unwrapped it as I was on my way out. I also ordered a camshaft bearing removal /installer tool. I will be removing the old bearings. There's a chance I leave the last bearing in there unless I unbolt the transmission. I put the cam back in the box. I'll probably continue cleaning the block and painting it until the tool kit gets here. It doesn't seem they included any break in product or instructions. Any recommendations...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9333.jpg  
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  20. #20
    VCVC Member TurboVan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Ojai, CA, USA
    Posts
    6,436
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yes, you need some kind of break-in/assembly lube containing moly like Isky Rev-Lube, and then use an oil containing zinc like Valvoline VR1.
    Last edited by TurboVan; 12-15-2018 at 12:54 AM.
    Keep one foot in the gutter, one fist in the gold...

    '65 Panel, with turbocharged 327 (originally 153 four), TH400 (originally 3-speed), and 3.31 '67 Camaro 12 bolt rear (my first car, 1970)
    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...meE_Jf-hgJU2mG

    '69 Sportvan 108 with turbocharged original 250 six and 700R4 (originally Powerglide), 3.73 rear, starred in eight Taco Bell commercials
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDfPJ3xmwjY


  21. #21
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yesterday I began removing the old camshaft bearings. I used my new cam bearings removal tool. Easy enough to use. The rubber sleeves that go on the unit of the tool where the bearing is placed made sliding the bearings real difficult. It was too tight. Too tight that the rubber ripped when removing the bearings. I tried a thinner rubber and same effect. For the first bearing I only used the small extension portion of the tool due to clearance issues in front of the engine. You need enough room to smack the tool with a hammer. I used a socket at the end of the small extension to be able to hit it with a hammer. I used the long tube with the rest of the bearings 2 and 3 since it goes deeper into the block. I ordered cam bearings from 12bolt.com (king brand) since Tom recommend these on his site. I got disappointed in opening the box and feeling the bearings. I had to file some outer rough jagged edges down on all bearings. And one had a scratch in the middle. Luckily it was not going to be used since I was not removing the 4th one from my block.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9553.jpg   IMG_9551.jpg   IMG_9552.jpg   IMG_9556.jpg   IMG_9563.jpg  

    IMG_9564.jpg   IMG_9562.jpg  
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  22. #22
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    So today I was able to install the new bearings. I did check the last bearing and no scouring was felt. The important part about installing new cam bearings is to align the oil holes. If you don't, the rest of the engine will not get the necessary lubrication, and definite catastrophe will happen.On my first attempt I tried to eye it with just a line on the hole in the inner and outer parts of the bearing and I was close but no cigar. If you look carefully at the first picture you can see the whole in the bearing not aligned to the block oil hole. I needed to figure out a strategy that would work. First, I needed to press out this new bearing and try again. I placed the new bearings in front of their respective cavity and aligned the oil hole by a marker line I drew on the bearing face. Then I drew a marker line at the 6 o'clock mark so I can visually see a visual center while under the van to drive the bearing in accurately. It worked out great. Right on the mark, aligning the oil holes perfectly.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9575.jpg   IMG_9574.jpg   IMG_9578.jpg   IMG_9579.jpg   IMG_9588.jpg  

    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  23. #23
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The front bearing was installed last. I used the small extension once again. I used only a mark at the outer bearing surface to align the oil hole since I was not going to be under the van. This mark would be visible from the top as I drove it in. The other bearings were aligned first with the marks and then blindly smacked in slowly. When I thought I finished driving this last front one in the oil hole was not aligned. It looked like it needed to be pressed in further to be just right with the hole. I rechecked a picture with the original bearing and it was further in. So I went ahead and pressed it in further. The hole lines up. Time for Camshaft install. But first I will be removing the crankshaft gear with a puller. Wish me luck.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9604.jpg   IMG_9603.jpg   IMG_9606.jpg   IMG_9608.jpg  
    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 12-20-2018 at 05:26 PM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  24. #24
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    These are the original bearings. Surprisingly the front bearing (#1) was not too bad. The 2nd and 3rd were bad. Glad I replaced them. The 4th one was left in the block. It felt smooth. I have to add a disclosure. Bearing inner diameters are all the same but outer diameters are different. I had taken out all new bearings from the box. They were shipped in order. I mixed them up. I didn't know. I thought they were all the same size until I saw part numbers on the box. Luckily I marked my old bearings as I took them out. I measured and re measured and matched measurements to new bearings. I repeated to make sure. The # 1 and 4 are bigger (size 5.11/picture) and middle 2 and 3 are smaller ( size 5.09/picture)outer diameters. So, bearings 1 and 4 are part number CH 5-2, and bearings 2 and 3 are CH 5-3. This is from memory so if incorrect I'll come back and correct them.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9599.jpg   IMG_9600.jpg   IMG_9592.jpg   IMG_9593.jpg   IMG_9597.jpg  

    IMG_9598.jpg  
    Last edited by 66BeachCruiser; 12-20-2018 at 05:44 PM.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  25. #25
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ok, just came out to remove the crank gear with a 3 arm type puller and the clearance on the bottom is not big enough to fit the ends of the puller and the top of the gear has no space behind it to allow a puller. I removed the woodruff key first.

    How do remove this gear? And what's an appropriate tool to use? Looks like maybe a 2 arm type puller with thinner ends? Help if anyone has done it before. In the meantime I'll be looking for a different puller.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9631.jpg   IMG_9632.jpg   IMG_9629.jpg   IMG_9633.jpg   IMG_9634.jpg  

    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  26. #26
    VCVC Member panelmanrd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    KC MO
    Posts
    1,953
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    that gear is a bitch to get off, it usually runs against a gear
    that is fiber and never wears out, it is harder than the fiber gear
    and an aluminum replacement gear, it theory it should never need
    changing. I`d leave it there and assemble it.
    54 chevy panel truck 355 tpi 700r4 325/9in
    64 chevy 90 5.7 tpi 700r4 336 8.2
    69 chevy panel van 5.7 tbi 700r4 336 8.2

  27. #27
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by panelmanrd View Post
    that gear is a bitch to get off, it usually runs against a gear
    that is fiber and never wears out, it is harder than the fiber gear
    and an aluminum replacement gear, it theory it should never need
    changing. I`d leave it there and assemble it.
    My new CAM came with a new aluminum Cam gear attached (no more nylon) and came with a new aluminum crankshaft Gear for me to install. This original type gear on the crankshaft looks like it could be steel. I don't want to mix metals by leaving this gear on. One gear may be stronger than the other and eat it up.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  28. #28
    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    zelienople, pa.
    Posts
    2,453
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    if your determined to change the gear (I would leave it) use 2 small chisels as wedges to force it off. beat them in between block and gear and keep both snug/tight. a little heat helps. if still not budging, beat the chisels in as tight as you can and then tap on the crank forcing it into the gear. while a good solid smack will pop it right off, you do not want to damage the end of crank. if it is tapped/threaded, install bolt with a few washers and hit I as hard as you can. plan on buying a new bolt.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

  29. #29
    VCVC Charter Member Vanner68's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Kimball MI USA
    Posts
    13,436
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You need this style puller:

    Gregg Groff


    There's no place like 127.0.0.1

    1968 Chevy G20 108 panel Now with 454 power!

    1965 Chevy G10 panel- OHC Pontiac inline 6

  30. #30
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks guys for the suggestions. If having an aluminum cam gear and a steel crank gear is not a known problem I will leave it. I was just going to replace it with Aluminum so it can be aluminum to Aluminum gears.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  31. #31
    VCVC Member kookykrispy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Apple Valley, CA
    Posts
    8,518
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    On my old 66, I replaced the old nylon cam gear with an aluminum gear. Did not replace the crank gear. It ran for many years and thousands of miles with no problems



    64' wikivan 230/4 onda tree/2.56 posi
    '64 Red Baron no engine/trans
    '66 "Lucky" 230/3 onda tree/project

    Quote Originally Posted by Vanner68 View Post
    Remember, they're still printing money, but they aren't making any more earlies!

  32. #32
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Gregg, where did you find that puller? You have a link?
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  33. #33
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by kookykrispy View Post
    On my old 66, I replaced the old nylon cam gear with an aluminum gear. Did not replace the crank gear. It ran for many years and thousands of miles with no problems
    Good to hear Joe. That steel crank gear sure is bullet proof. I did attempt to remove it yesterday by making my own 2 arm/jaw puller. I had to grind down jaw puller tabs to fit in the small space behind the crank gear. While tightening it down there was no budge on the gear/sprocket. It broke one tab on the jaw puller. I modified a puller once again but gave up for the night. I was going to try heat today and a better 2 arm puller. That puller Gregg posted looks like it was made for this. So, instead of fighting this thing further, if it won't be a problem I'll leave it. After all that fighting with it last night, I will have to inspect all the teeth carefully to make sure the puller didn't damage any.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  34. #34
    VCVC Charter Member Vanner68's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Kimball MI USA
    Posts
    13,436
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by 66BeachCruiser View Post
    Gregg, where did you find that puller? You have a link?

    https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...set-62593.html
    Gregg Groff


    There's no place like 127.0.0.1

    1968 Chevy G20 108 panel Now with 454 power!

    1965 Chevy G10 panel- OHC Pontiac inline 6

  35. #35
    VCVC Charter Member Vanner68's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Kimball MI USA
    Posts
    13,436
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by 66BeachCruiser View Post
    Good to hear Joe. That steel crank gear sure is bullet proof. I did attempt to remove it yesterday by making my own 2 arm/jaw puller. I had to grind down jaw puller tabs to fit in the small space behind the crank gear. While tightening it down there was no budge on the gear/sprocket. It broke one tab on the jaw puller. I modified a puller once again but gave up for the night. I was going to try heat today and a better 2 arm puller. That puller Gregg posted looks like it was made for this. So, instead of fighting this thing further, if it won't be a problem I'll leave it. After all that fighting with it last night, I will have to inspect all the teeth carefully to make sure the puller didn't damage any.
    Personally, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. The steel gear runs a nylon gear for over 100,000 miles, so I don't think it will chew up an aluminum one.

    If you do need to remove it, you may need to apply a little heat. Nothing crazy, a propane torch will do the trick. I have had to install gears by heating them in an electric frying pan so they expand and slide on easier.
    Last edited by Vanner68; 12-21-2018 at 10:59 AM.
    Gregg Groff


    There's no place like 127.0.0.1

    1968 Chevy G20 108 panel Now with 454 power!

    1965 Chevy G10 panel- OHC Pontiac inline 6

  36. #36
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    So after further inspection I did sure enough damage the gear I was already attempting to remove. I could see a broken tooth and some rounded areas. I struggled and broke my next custom 2 jaw puller even with heat applied. After much frustration I went ahead and tapped the sprocket for a 3/8"-16 thread (bolt size for another puller I have). It took a couple of broken drill bits, some muscle and time but got it tapped. I got the puller on and went away with it. This setup was more square and secure. The jaw setup would either slip or brake the arm/jaw. It eventually just started spinning the entire crankshaft. I put a washer between the crank, added heat once again and tried again. Finally got this tough sprocket off. It budged. Honestly, I'm feeling this new sprocket gear and it might be steel and not Aluminum. It feels as heavy and doesn't look as light as aluminum should. Hmmm. If that's the case, definitely could have left the old one. I thought they sell the timing gear set as a set in aluminum. Maybe not? I actually don't have a scale to compare the weights but I can confirm later with a phone call.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9649.jpg   IMG_9652.jpg   IMG_9654.jpg   IMG_9655.jpg   IMG_9659.jpg  

    IMG_9660.jpg  
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  37. #37
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I just put the crankshaft gear next to the cam gear and sure don't look like aluminum. I've never seen this gear as closely and now I see a date stamped on the crankshaft gear. Being as to how pain in the butt these are to take off, this is most likely original to this engine. And this can give you a clue to what year your engine likely came out of. Could be a hint that you might not have an original to your vehicle engine. This date stamp says 09 10 79. Unless it means something else.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9661.jpg   IMG_9662.jpg  
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  38. #38
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    New crankshaft gear is in. I put it on top of my vice and heated it up with the torch for a couple of minutes and when I thought it was ready I grabbed it with my welding glove and set it up on the crank snout. Used a size 32 socket and hammer to immediately hammer it on. It smoothly went on. I had everything ready so I wouldn't lose the heat.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_9669.jpg  
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  39. #39
    VCVC Charter Member Vanner68's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Kimball MI USA
    Posts
    13,436
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You were using the puller backwards. Bolt heads ALWAYS go on the flat side.

    Gregg Groff


    There's no place like 127.0.0.1

    1968 Chevy G20 108 panel Now with 454 power!

    1965 Chevy G10 panel- OHC Pontiac inline 6

  40. #40
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA,
    Posts
    1,074
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Vanner68 View Post
    You were using the puller backwards. Bolt heads ALWAYS go on the flat side.
    I didn't realize it. I was wondering why it was a bit angled. Either way it worked with this puller and tapping the gear.
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •