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Thread: Body work question

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    VCVC Member van-itti's Avatar
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    Body work question

    Getting things ready for the body shop.
    In an effort to save myself some money Ive pre-prepped some...
    All 6 doors sandblasted and primed, but now need some advise please.
    Id like to have them start without having hours involved in sanding the body.

    Should I sand the old paint off the body or use some chem stripper and then sand? (Zip Strip etc.)
    No way to sandblast the body..
    Mike

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    VCVC Member LedZeppvan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by van-itti View Post
    Getting things ready for the body shop.
    In an effort to save myself some money Ive pre-prepped some...
    All 6 doors sandblasted and primed, but now need some advise please.
    Id like to have them start without having hours involved in sanding the body.

    Should I sand the old paint off the body or use some chem stripper and then sand? (Zip Strip etc.)
    No way to sandblast the body..
    I think the body shop would not have much of a lower of a price... they have to make a profit. Save your back have them sand it. However, that is not to say it might be better to sand it some, to make sure it gets done to your specifications. Because shops do cut corners when possible, that is the truth. I had to be on it with my paint shop...otherwise it would not be to my specs. I still missed some things that were perhaps minor... but I was looking for spots missed etc.
    There will always be some small spots after painting that will be found. Like a small little pebble ding you never saw before that nice paint was applied.
    I bet having those doors done brings the price down. Cant wait to see the finished paint! Good luck!!
    Jacke

    1964 GMC Handi-Van Custom 350
    1971 Ford Mustang 302
    1957 Karman Ghia Project

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    sanding it off will take you forever?? What condition is it in? I remember a post a while back someone saying how hard it was to get to bare metal on their vintage van and wondering if GM used lead in the primer. Maybe sanding just enough to make it ready for new primer is the way to go without ever exposing the metal. If you do remove the original paint, are you ready to prep it properly and then hit it with an epoxy primer? I'm no expert at all but been reading up and internetting on this stuff, it's more complicated than I would have thought.

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    VCVC Member van-itti's Avatar
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    Ive had the 1/4 repaired after the accident. The paint was temporary till I could find parts.
    Front doors and cargo had damage and just seemed easier to find better.

    The body isnt really bad. It has the usual dents here and there.
    Front left corner has the smushed in spot from the door swinging out from the crash
    but it also had been fixed years ago by the PO. I have a complete nose section and cant bring myself to cut it up.
    Still gotta make up my mind on that...

    Just thought by using 40grit and roughing it down myself would save on time at the shop.
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    Mike

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    VCVC Charter Member Vanner68's Avatar
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    IMO, the only reason to go to bare metal is if you have doubts as to what is under the paint: i.e. bondo, pop riveted patches, papier mache' (no fooling!). If you are fairly confident the body is solid, a good scuff it all that is necessary for a driver quality paint job. If you are going for show quality, then that is another story that others here ( Hint: Smiley) can better advise you about.
    Gregg Groff


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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    what are you using as primer? rattle can primer offers very little protection from rust. I have striped paint using coarse grit paper, wire wheels, chemical and sand blasting. they all equally suck! I would wet sand it with 220 grit and maybe as coarse as 120 if paint was chalky. you need to cut threw the top layer of chalk/dust. a newer pint job could be scuffed with 400 or even 600 but not 50 year old paint. any chips or scratches may require coarser grit, then worked up in stages to at least 220. high build primer will fill the 220 and need sanded finer before paint anyways. rattle cans? probably better to not touch it and let them sand before painting.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    VCVC Member digz's Avatar
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    If it has been repainted 3 times or less. I'd probably just sand off the oxidized layer. My luck has been 5 plus layers and that can haunt you with cracks in the paint later. 80 will take off paint. Ive only used 40 knocking down rust and filler. My go-to for removing paint is chemical stripper. You still will have to sand but saves on paper. Also those 2" scotchbrites and a die grinder are your friend for tight spots. Thing with chem stripper is getting gone before paint. It will hide in crevices and can show up later.
    Last edited by digz; 03-26-2019 at 07:03 AM.
    64 Project,65 Driver,66 Parts sorta

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    Administrator smiley's Avatar
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    No matter what condition you send it to them in, it’s gonna get scuffed, primed, and many hours of block sanding to get the panels and doors trued for paint. By doing a lot of work up front, you’re only creating work for yourself. Any body and paint shop worth using is still going go through every step. After all, the look of the finished product and how well it holds up, is a huge part of their reputation as a business.

    Did you use a 2-part primer on the doors? If not, it’s gonna get sanded off as well.
    1966 Chevy Display, "Southern Belle"
    1968 Chevy, "Blue Overdose"

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    prep prep prep

    Painters hate to prep. I know a handful of people who have done it for a living. Its really 6 of one, half a dozen of the other, on whether they want you to prep yourself.
    If they are booked and short on time they want you to save them time as long as its done nicely. So they can keep their schedules moving along.
    If they are short of work, they want the money of course.

    I am currently in the same exact situation. In fact, the sandblaster came on Sunday and did all door jambs, hinges, window enclosures, front floor pan, front doors, and the entire dash.
    He saved us weeks of sanding. however, I feel like sandblasting is dangerous on these oldies, as it can really warp the metal if the person isn't exactly a pro.
    Tonight we are washing it down a final time, to remove wax and grease and all blasting media.... then 3 days to completely dry, and this weekend it will finally get primer! (again)
    I have owned this van for over 20 years. I've had it down to bare metal 2 other times, and somehow it never made it past the primer stage. My poor Chevy always got bumped off of the priority list.
    well not anymore. I have the funds and the time. this is gonna happen this go round!
    I still need to procure all the window and door seals. about 3 years ago we started to restore the mechanical aspects. so its got a newly rebuilt engine, transmission, carb, radiator, shocks, king pins, converted the front brakes to disc, replaced all of everything... even had to renovate the fuel tank as it sat several years without a cap. (some jerk borrowed mine). we bought a painless wiring kit. but that's when the priorities shifted again. body work time is nobody's favorite.
    My husband bought himself an Ultra4 racecar and that is where the last few years disappeared to.

    I am so glad that after all these years I came back to this site and found you guys still operating.
    I will probably be needing some advice as the next few months should be seeing my van back on the road.... Its been over 16 years since I've driven her!
    Needless to say I am finally starting to get excited again.....

    in the late 90s I was able to purchase the door and window seals from LMC truck by application. but now they don't show van anymore.
    does anybody know where I can get them these days?

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    Quote Originally Posted by AMYLAPP View Post
    in the late 90s I was able to purchase the door and window seals from LMC truck by application. but now they don't show van anymore.
    does anybody know where I can get them these days?
    https://www.steelerubber.com/search?...-passenger-van

    Gotta get me two sets unless I find some universal stuff cheaper.

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