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Thread: Another project...

  1. #11
    VCVC Member
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    Hey Leroy

    Quote Originally Posted by Leroy Jackson View Post

    If you want to minimize fab work, use blind cherry max rivets.
    Do they require a special rivet gun and where is a good place to obtain a small quantity (~50-100)?
    108VanGuy...
    1969 Chevy Panel, 250 CID, 3 Spd.with OD, 3.36 "WedgieVan" Daily Driver
    1967 Chevy Panel, 230 CID, 3 Spd. 3.36 "UtiliVan" 292 TFI coming. Owned since 76
    1964 GMC Panel, 194 CID, 3 Spd. "CrunchoVan"
    1965 GMC HandiBus Custom, 194 CID, 3 Spd. "MilkVan" Seized Engine
    1965 Chevy Panel 350 CID, 3 Spd. "RustoRoof" Runs but wiring bad
    1969 Chevy 108 Display 307 CID THM 350 Power Brakes 3.73 Posi
    1965 Chevy Panel, V8, 3 Spd. "Gold Hills Van" Best body of my 65s
    1965 CamperVan, V8, 3 Spd.

  2. #12
    VCVC Member van-itti's Avatar
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    all shaking aside...

    Wasnt today a riot!?

    Hafta make a decision here and could use some input.
    All the scale rust is ground and the interior has been rough sanded.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Should I prime and paint or use the POR stuff and then paint?
    Putting the supports back...before paint? After?

    Ideas, suggestions...whadidyoudo?
    Mike

  3. #13
    VCVC Member Wookee's Avatar
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    Cool

    This might sound crazy.
    Rou can roll the POR 15 onto the roof sections between the roof and the bows.
    The General never bothered to paint these areas.
    Due to condensation those areas developed surface rust.even out on the rust free west coast.
    You can also use four decent self drilling sheet metal screws on the outer ends.
    This way they could be removed later down the road.If needed
    A good auto body adhesive can be used to glue the roof bow flanges up to the roof sheet metal.
    The outer parts of the bows and the rood can then be painted with what ever type of automotive finish youy want to use..
    Last edited by Wookee; 07-08-2019 at 07:58 AM.
    Its a "van thing". A life style you have to live to understand!!!!

  4. #14
    VCVC Member van-itti's Avatar
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    Onward thru the fog...

    Roof bows are back in place and Im on to seam sealing them and every
    damn space I can find throughout the interior.Click image for larger version. 

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    Mike

  5. #15
    VCVC Member kookykrispy's Avatar
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    that looks great. Nice work



    64' wikivan 230/4 onda tree/2.56 posi
    '64 Red Baron no engine/trans
    '66 "Lucky" 230/3 onda tree/project
    '67 108" G10 "high roller" 350/th350 12 bolt rear, 31" tires

    Quote Originally Posted by Vanner68 View Post
    Remember, they're still printing money, but they aren't making any more earlies!

  6. #16
    New Guy ShawnM's Avatar
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    I put shag carpet over the cab area in my van. Used 1/2 EMT bend to the arch of the roof as close as I could before putting 1/4" Luan up there fastened to the EMT to attached the carpeting. I used Grilla epoxy to fasten the EMT to the underside of the roof. Also, bent the EMT at 90 degrees on the ends for about 12" so the returns tucked tight up against the side walls above the doors. Epoxied the EMT there as well. The gorilla glue claims to be a structural filler as well as a glue. It worked great for me, filled any gaps with it as well in multiple coats to avoid the sqweeks, so far no sqweeks!

  7. #17
    New Guy ShawnM's Avatar
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    One more thing, I left the factory headliner material in place as it was tight and offered additional protection from the sqweeking concern

  8. #18
    New Guy
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    Fastener

    These are needed for support for the roof. Believe me with these roofs you can stand on them. That fastener has a low shear load. I would spot weld, or use a cherry rivet for strength. Remember you will have added weight also for your headlight material. Good luck looks like you care enough to do it right.

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