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Thread: Another project...

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    VCVC Member van-itti's Avatar
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    Another project...

    I was looking back at posts about the roof rails.
    Cutting them loose, sanding the rust and coating them but
    putting them back...Would this work?
    Just a zip screw instead of welding?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    How much side to side motion do these support/prevent?
    As long as there wasnt much weight on the roof could they be eliminated?
    Mike

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    VCVC Member panelmanrd's Avatar
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    It will work but I'd use 4 per side
    54 chevy panel truck 355 tpi 700r4 325/9in
    64 chevy 90 5.7 tpi 700r4 336 8.2
    69 chevy panel van 5.7 tbi 700r4 336 8.2

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    VCVC Member m1dadio's Avatar
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    Screws would work. I attached my dog house with good rivets. Either way any fastener used correctly will be fine. The factory builds using welding because of cost and efficiency on the line.

    I would recommend also using that auto-body caulking to bond the metal. Makes a huge difference in tightening up the vehicle and preventing any fasteners from loosening up. It dosnt have to be "body adhesive", just about any cheap paintable caulking will do but stay away from anything with silicone for this job or you will have painting issues.

    M1D
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    VCVC Member rarechev's Avatar
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    over time it will turn into a squeaky toy.
    Last edited by rarechev; 04-09-2019 at 12:26 PM.
    1970 108 panel, 350, 700R4, power tilt steering, power brakes, power windows
    1969 90 panel, 454 LS5, T400, 12 bolt posi.

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    New Guy
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    What do you do to minimize squeaking in the long run?

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    I screwed the doghouse down with sheet metal screws. I insulated the doghouse. With the sound of the 350 under the doghouse of my 66, I never noticed any squeaks. I just heard the rumble of the engine.

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    Certifiable Vanatic Leroy Jackson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rarechev View Post
    over time it will turn into a sqeeky toy.
    Yup..a very squeaky toy...that gets amplified by the tin can shape of the van.

    The roof supports do more then just support the roof, they add rigidity to the while body.

    If you want to minimize fab work, use blind cherry max rivets. Observe proper pitch and edge distance ( typically 1.5 times rivet diameter ) which over a disrance of 3-4 inches would work out to about 6 or so rivits and use good adhesive to rebond the support back to the roof.

    Self tapping screws might last for a few weeks or a few years depending on how you use your van.

    However it looks like it might be easier to weld up the joint..5 mins with a good mig vs drilling and installing fasteners.
    Last edited by Leroy Jackson; 04-09-2019 at 12:06 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leroy Jackson View Post
    Yup..a very squeaky toy...that gets amplified by the tin can shape of the van.

    The roof supports do more then just support the roof, they add rigidity to the while body.

    If you want to minimize fab work, use blind cherry max rivets. Observe proper pitch and edge distance ( typically 1.5 times rivet diameter ) which over a disrance of 3-4 inches would work out to about 6 or so rivits and use good adhesive to rebond the support back to the roof.

    Self tapping screws might last for a few weeks or a few years depending on how you use your van.

    However it looks like it might be easier to weld up the joint..5 mins with a good mig vs drilling and installing fasteners.
    I know nothing about welding, but based on what I saw of how these vans are put together when doing a stop gap fix on all the roof rot of my 108, I would say Leroy is spot on. The one time I did any welding was on my old boat trailer with the help of a friend who was a welder. After welding some pieces together he said "now the two pieces are one piece of metal". That always stuck with me. It seems like those roof supports do more to keep the sides of the van together than hold up the roof sheet metal.

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    VCVC Member van-itti's Avatar
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    I had bought the seam sealer awhile ago to seal the roof rails BUT.
    Putting aside that now I have to find the "3M Professional Caulking Gun"...

    The cartridge has a warning about using it in the interior areas.

    Anyone have any odor/fume issues after using the 3M 08505 Fast'n Firm Beige seam sealer?
    Mike

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    VCVC Member panelmanrd's Avatar
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    body putty stinks worse than fast and firm
    54 chevy panel truck 355 tpi 700r4 325/9in
    64 chevy 90 5.7 tpi 700r4 336 8.2
    69 chevy panel van 5.7 tbi 700r4 336 8.2

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    Hey Leroy

    Quote Originally Posted by Leroy Jackson View Post

    If you want to minimize fab work, use blind cherry max rivets.
    Do they require a special rivet gun and where is a good place to obtain a small quantity (~50-100)?
    108VanGuy...
    1969 Chevy Panel, 250 CID, 3 ring 4 Spd. with OD, 2.73 "WedgieVan" Daily Driver
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    VCVC Member van-itti's Avatar
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    all shaking aside...

    Wasnt today a riot!?

    Hafta make a decision here and could use some input.
    All the scale rust is ground and the interior has been rough sanded.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Should I prime and paint or use the POR stuff and then paint?
    Putting the supports back...before paint? After?

    Ideas, suggestions...whadidyoudo?
    Mike

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    VCVC Member Wookee's Avatar
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    Cool

    This might sound crazy.
    Rou can roll the POR 15 onto the roof sections between the roof and the bows.
    The General never bothered to paint these areas.
    Due to condensation those areas developed surface rust.even out on the rust free west coast.
    You can also use four decent self drilling sheet metal screws on the outer ends.
    This way they could be removed later down the road.If needed
    A good auto body adhesive can be used to glue the roof bow flanges up to the roof sheet metal.
    The outer parts of the bows and the rood can then be painted with what ever type of automotive finish youy want to use..
    Last edited by Wookee; 07-08-2019 at 07:58 AM.
    Its a "van thing". A life style you have to live to understand!!!!

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    VCVC Member van-itti's Avatar
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    Onward thru the fog...

    Roof bows are back in place and Im on to seam sealing them and every
    damn space I can find throughout the interior.Click image for larger version. 

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    Mike

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    VCVC Member kookykrispy's Avatar
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    that looks great. Nice work



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    VCVC Member ShawnM's Avatar
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    I put shag carpet over the cab area in my van. Used 1/2 EMT bend to the arch of the roof as close as I could before putting 1/4" Luan up there fastened to the EMT to attached the carpeting. I used Grilla epoxy to fasten the EMT to the underside of the roof. Also, bent the EMT at 90 degrees on the ends for about 12" so the returns tucked tight up against the side walls above the doors. Epoxied the EMT there as well. The gorilla glue claims to be a structural filler as well as a glue. It worked great for me, filled any gaps with it as well in multiple coats to avoid the sqweeks, so far no sqweeks!

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    VCVC Member ShawnM's Avatar
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    One more thing, I left the factory headliner material in place as it was tight and offered additional protection from the sqweeking concern

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    Fastener

    These are needed for support for the roof. Believe me with these roofs you can stand on them. That fastener has a low shear load. I would spot weld, or use a cherry rivet for strength. Remember you will have added weight also for your headlight material. Good luck looks like you care enough to do it right.

  19. #19
    VCVC Member van-itti's Avatar
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    I found a guy who welded them in. I used a whole tube of seam sealer.
    So far...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Should be going to body guy in September!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_7992.jpg  
    Mike

  20. #20
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Wow, great to see the progress. Body guy in September, how exciting!
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
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