Need tips and tricks on tidying up engine wires.

[monkeykongking]

Summer is here and i'm always paranoid about electrical fires. So, i'm planning to tidy up and do some preventative care.

Planning to buy some high temperature looms to wrap as many wires as possible.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQMINFY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A38Z015AJ7I755&psc=1

Also taping connecting looms ends and any exposed wires with high temperature tapes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016ZMXLEI?psc=1&pf_rd_p=353e4c0d-d3b2-4745-8e6f-c332615c1250&pf_rd_r=8MKQ7EF0GQK4848W7SN2&pd_rd_wg=oGYxH&pd_rd_i=B016ZMXLEI&pd_rd_w=jf2lT&pd_rd_r=1cf96f89-4d61-4b54-8a2f-71b78a29c238&ref_=pd_luc_rh_pd_luc_ac_nb_01_02_t_img_lh

The high temperature tapes has mixed reviews. What do you guys think?

Any tips and tricks?

[kookykrispy]

The only time my van ever experienced an electrical fire was in the pink ignition wire that goes from the ignition switch in the dash to the coil. The factory wire is pretty small, for the amount of current it is tasked to carry. IIRC it’s a 16 gauge. It makes sense to replace this circuit with a heavier wire, such as a 12 gauge wire. A thicker wire can handle more current without overheating. Especially if you have upgraded to an HEI, it is a good idea to upgrade the pink ignition wire, since it is now carrying more current than the original points system.

Beginning in 1967 the second gen vans, the factory added a fusible link in the main red power feed wire coming from off the positive post of the starter. This is an excellent safety upgrade to prevent an electrical fire in the van wiring harness. It is easy to add a fusible link to the first gen van in the same way that second gens had. The way the fusible link works is that in the event there is a short to ground somewhere in the van’s wiring, the fusible link will cook and break, thereby stopping the power flow from the battery, and preventing fire or further damage from a short to ground. You can also use an inline fuse or even a breaker. With a breaker, you can easily reset it. Fusible links work well, but if you do have a short and you cook one, you will need to rewire and install a new one before your van will run again.

Wire loom is a good idea to use and also in conjunction with electrical tape. Wrapping up everything neat and tidy is a good idea to prevent shorts due to grounded out to metal.

[Vanner68]

My 68 used to catch fire weekly, and this was when it was only 15 years old. The 'clips' that the wire loom hangs from are pretty flimsy, and the loom would pop out and fall on the exhaust manifold. I re-routed everything away from the exhaust and ran it in the split loom harness. It's currently a rat's nest again after 4 more engine swaps, and will be routed under the floor next time, with a single loom coming up the rear of the engine for all the electrics

[jrinaman]

I am a fan of heat shrink tubing. doesn't unravel and fall off like Chinese electrical tape. don't bother with the 8" pieces at your local parts store, just order rolls or 3' lengths. it is cheap so get some of every size. same on zip ties, 100 count packs of every size. if you have wires you don't need to lengthen or just don't want to cut, then use the looms but put lots of zip ties along the length. bolt wire/loom clamps where you can to secure the wires/harness instead of those bend over/vibrate loose tabs. leave a little slack on the wires but not so much that it falls on anything. del city has everything you would need. https://www.delcity.net/

[monkeykongking]

Hey KK, thanks for the advice.

I like the inline fuse option. What amp do you recommend?

I just ordered some 12 gauge wire, i'll replace the pink ignition wire too.

Thanks!

The only time my van ever experienced an electrical fire was in the pink ignition wire that goes from the ignition switch in the dash to the coil. The factory wire is pretty small, for the amount of current it is tasked to carry. IIRC it’s a 16 gauge. It makes sense to replace this circuit with a heavier wire, such as a 12 gauge wire. A thicker wire can handle more current without overheating. Especially if you have upgraded to an HEI, it is a good idea to upgrade the pink ignition wire, since it is now carrying more current than the original points system.

Beginning in 1967 the second gen vans, the factory added a fusible link in the main red power feed wire coming from off the positive post of the starter. This is an excellent safety upgrade to prevent an electrical fire in the van wiring harness. It is easy to add a fusible link to the first gen van in the same way that second gens had. The way the fusible link works is that in the event there is a short to ground somewhere in the van’s wiring, the fusible link will cook and break, thereby stopping the power flow from the battery, and preventing fire or further damage from a short to ground. You can also use an inline fuse or even a breaker. With a breaker, you can easily reset it. Fusible links work well, but if you do have a short and you cook one, you will need to rewire and install a new one before your van will run again.

Wire loom is a good idea to use and also in conjunction with electrical tape. Wrapping up everything neat and tidy is a good idea to prevent shorts due to grounded out to metal.

[monkeykongking]

Heat shrink tubing requires me to cut all my wire and feed it thru the tube right?

I don't think i'm ready for that kind of tidy up yet.

I am a fan of heat shrink tubing. doesn't unravel and fall off like Chinese electrical tape. don't bother with the 8" pieces at your local parts store, just order rolls or 3' lengths. it is cheap so get some of every size. same on zip ties, 100 count packs of every size. if you have wires you don't need to lengthen or just don't want to cut, then use the looms but put lots of zip ties along the length. bolt wire/loom clamps where you can to secure the wires/harness instead of those bend over/vibrate loose tabs. leave a little slack on the wires but not so much that it falls on anything. del city has everything you would need. https://www.delcity.net/

[kookykrispy]

Hey KK, thanks for the advice.

I like the inline fuse option. What amp do you recommend?

I just ordered some 12 gauge wire, i'll replace the pink ignition wire too.

Thanks!

If you have just the same basic stuff the van had originally, a 30 amp fuse should be fine. If you have added electric fan, fog lights, big stereo, and other high - draw accessories, then I would go for a 50 amp

[Leroy Jackson]

http://content.aviation-safety-bureau.com/allmembers/ac-43-13-1b/ac-43-13-1b.php

Chapter 11..this will educate you for days on proper wiring.

[108VanGuy]

All great advice. If you follow those aviation wiring guidlines you can't go wrong. Problem with just tidying up wires is that just moving them around can cause issues. Same thing with tightly wrapping them. If you just want to get them tidy, maybe zip ties to just kind of collect them. It's hard to give informed advice without seeing what you've got going on. On the 69 WedgieVan, every time I've added an electrical device, I've run a dedicated circuit, bypassing the OE harness as much as possible.
108VanGuy...

[Vanner68]

If you have any of these anywhere, GET RID OF THEM!



They are just problems waiting to happen. Cut and splice the wire if absolutely necessary, or just run a new dedicated wire as stated above.

[monkeykongking]

What do you mean by "dedicated circuit, bypassing the OE harness"?

Say for example if i want to install new fog lights. How do you dedicate a circuit?

I'm guessing run a power line from fog light to battery instead of fog light to fuse box?

All great advice. If you follow those aviation wiring guidlines you can't go wrong. Problem with just tidying up wires is that just moving them around can cause issues. Same thing with tightly wrapping them. If you just want to get them tidy, maybe zip ties to just kind of collect them. It's hard to give informed advice without seeing what you've got going on. On the 69 WedgieVan, every time I've added an electrical device, I've run a dedicated circuit, bypassing the OE harness as much as possible.
108VanGuy...

[jrinaman]

what I did was add a second fuse box. I used a relay with power direct from battery and 'keyed' power to trigger the relay. I only have a couple circuits on it but those and anything I add later will get power from an 8 gauge wire, not threw the original wiring and minimal power is needed to trigger the relay.

[lvjjj]

As I started adding things (fans, electric fuel pump, trailer lites, etc.) in '88 with the installation of the 292, at first I just found empty fuse prongs in the existing fuse block. After a while I found that I couldn't run the wipers, headlites and heater motor at the same time, headlites got real dim, volt meter at 8 volts. So found a couple of small fuse blocks at NAPA and ran an 8 gage wire from the battery terminal on the starter to them. Then, thanks to advice from many, started using relays to send power to the extras and the headlites and the wipers and the heater motor. Now I can see the highway and keep warm.

[Wookee]

What do you mean by "dedicated circuit, bypassing the OE harness"?

I'm guessing run a power line from fog light to battery instead of fog light to fuse box?

The issues when upgrading the wiring on these old girls can get tricky.

On things like a late modle HEI I run a dedicated hot wire to the H.E.I hot terminal.
I found an open "Keyed Hot" terminal on the fuse box ran a 12 GA. power wire to the H.E.I. power terminal.

If I loose power when it is dark out side I want to be able to go right to the problem & fix the issue.
Using a too high amp circuit breaker or relay can do more damage if the wires get too hot and begin to melt.
IT WILL TAKE OUT MELT ANY WIRES bundled tightly 5together before it blows the fuse or kicks a breaker. or relay.
A shorted out "HOT" wire get HOT fast.By the time you smell it burning the insulation the damage is done..
Having easy to remove battery terminals.
Being able to go right to the source of the power and to be able to unhook it.Can save a a bunch or repair work
It's also a good thing to work into your freshly up graded electrical system...

You need to run a hot wire and a ground wire to an accessory be a true "dedicated" circuit...
Fog Lights can be ran in there own detached circuit..

[monkeykongking]

I hate those things. Never trusted them. Luckily my van is free of those.

If you have any of these anywhere, GET RID OF THEM!



They are just problems waiting to happen. Cut and splice the wire if absolutely necessary, or just run a new dedicated wire as stated above.