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Thread: pics of my never ending project

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    pics of my never ending project

    nothing here to see.
    Last edited by jrinaman; 06-30-2019 at 10:19 PM.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    VCVC Member Wookee's Avatar
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    Cool

    Free flowing air flow is very important.In these Vans
    While you said this set up runs as cool as you are comfortable with.
    That radiator kinda looks like it will block way more air than it will help to cool the engine off..

    A scoop will move way more air into you radiator than that set up you are running now....

    Air like water follows the path of least resistance ..
    The down side to these cooling systems is that they do have to work with hotter air to cool.
    Normal, later model vans, work with air intake that is close to a foot higher off of the ground.
    Temps are measurably cooler that distance off of the road bed...
    Last edited by Wookee; 06-30-2019 at 01:14 PM.
    Its a "van thing". A life style you have to live to understand!!!!

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wookee View Post
    Free flowing air flow is very important.In these Vans
    While you said this set up runs as cool as you are comfortable with.
    That radiator kinda looks like it will block way more air than it will help to cool the engine off..

    A scoop will move way more air into you radiator than that set up you are running now....
    should I toss it in the trash and make a scoop? how cool should I run to be comfortable? has a 180 stat so that is all the cooler it will run unless I drop to a 165. I honestly thought a rock steady 180 degrees was good.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    VCVC Member Wookee's Avatar
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    Cool

    First,is the factory radiator a newer one or is at an original radiator ?

    Both of the radiators I have had in my 1st gen and my 2nd gen Vans had radiators that had no leaks.
    However when I took them to my local radiator shop there cores where a 1/4 of the way up from the bottom of the core.Swelled completely up with corrosion.On the first gen when the thermostat was open water still flowed past the fill hole.even with the core being that compromised by corrosion. .

    If working correctly the 2nd radiator located on the belly pan is really not necessary.
    I believe that was a former owners idea of how to make this van run cooler.
    The 180 thermostat should be fine.IF it is working in conjunction with a good radiator.



    Last edited by Wookee; 07-06-2019 at 06:34 PM.
    Its a "van thing". A life style you have to live to understand!!!!

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wookee View Post
    First,is the factory radiator a newer one or is at an original radiator ?

    Both of the radiators I have had in my 1st gen and my 2nd gen Vans had radiators that had no leaks.
    However when I took them to my local radiator shop there cores where a 1/4 of the way up from the bottom of the core.Swelled completely up with corrosion.On the first gen when the thermostat was open water still flowed past the fill hole.even with the core being that compromised by corrosion. .

    If working correctly the 2nd radiator located on the belly pan is really not necessary.
    I believe that was a former owners idea of how to make this van run cooler.
    The 180 thermostat should be fine.IF it is working in conjunction with a good radiator.


    you missed quite a bit in my lengthy post and multiple pics! the former owner added this when his built 327 kept running hot. claimed it solved his issues. there was no reason to remove it when he put the 250 back in it. the stock rad sprung several leaks a few years ago so I installed an aluminum cougar rad. a bad motor mount allowed the fan to wipe out half the front cores before ever leaving the shop! jb weld and an electric pusher was my temporary fix to get 15 miles to the butler truck in. 3 years later, I installed another cougar rad, moved the engine back where it belonged and did MANY other improvements/repairs. great care was used to direct any and all air threw the rad. the ONLY air flow this could block is whatever might of come threw the louvers in the belly pan. I had considered that it may not be needed but going on the p.o.'s word that it helped, why would I remove it? your hung up on air flow (so much that your cross threading your digs) but missing the added cooling capacity. the pan was off for all the other work and while I was sealing up gaps and wiring the fan, it seamed logical to correct the obvious flaws he overlooked, air flow! half the fan blocked off, massive air gaps and open fan that 'might' draw air threw when parked. if the added rad was better or not was not the issue, I already had it and it worked. what I addressed in most of those pics was AIR FLOW! many early owners complain of running hot, most would never need an aux. rad but could benefit from simply sealing up all the gaps and making the most of the available air (air flow). it was a lengthy and detailed post on how to do that.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    VCVC Member Wookee's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by jrinaman View Post
    I had considered that it may not be needed but going on the p.o.'s word that it helped, why would I remove it? your hung up on air flow (so much that your cross threading your digs) but missing the added cooling capacity. the pan was off for all the other work and while I was sealing up gaps and wiring the fan, it seamed logical to correct the obvious flaws he overlooked, air flow! half the fan blocked off, massive air gaps and open fan that 'might' draw air threw when parked. if the added rad was better or not was not the issue, I already had it and it worked. what I addressed in most of those pics was AIR FLOW! many early owners complain of running hot, most would never need an aux. rad but could benefit from simply sealing up all the gaps and making the most of the available air (air flow). it was a lengthy and detailed post on how to do that.
    Yes John you are right many early owners do complain about there vans running hot.
    I did read your whole post from the beginning
    Remember the big three Van makers at the time where all suffering from the same issues.
    Our factory thermostat is a 195.A common temperature for a radiator located in the very front of a car or van.
    How ever it is a bit too hot for our vans in summer temps.Add a low rear gear ratio where the 6's are spinning at close to three g's.
    The temps are going to climb.
    Right now with the set up and the gauges I am running.There is a noted ten degree difference between 65 MPH & 75 MPH..
    Sorry John I am not saying your method to fix your running hot issues is wrong.
    Like the old saying goes "There is more than one way to skin a cat".
    This is your way,or the P.O.'s way to take care of your issues.
    I do respect that.

    ........Wookee



    Last edited by Wookee; 07-04-2019 at 09:42 AM.
    Its a "van thing". A life style you have to live to understand!!!!

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    we are fighting two issues here, three if you count when it was designed. always a fan of '60's g.m. vehicles so been driving them long before it became cool. when '60's and '70's vehicles were daily drivers, it was common to see them overheat, the gas stations even had special buckets to add water. now stick that in a van and we limit the size of a rad that can fit and block the air flow, it was flawed before they ever built it. any other vehicle with the 230 had a bigger rad than the first gens. my c40 with a 292 was easily 3 times bigger but even a pickup or impala had a bigger rad. the capacity is probably the smaller issue but I have that covered. the bigger issue, your point, is lack of air coming in. not just the small grill but smaller tunnel and a 90 degree bend to a narrow passage to the top. my improvements there are minor at best (for now). directing what little air available was all I improved in that area. little more room in front of rad, lot less holes for air to escape and a bigger shrouded fan sucking air from below. in the midst of 20 other projects, I decided to improve what I had while it was off. already had the set up, had the better fan laying here in my stash/hoard and regardless how well it worked, it would kill me to put it back on without addressing the obvious flaws. more air in and a tunnel were not ignored, just not todays project.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    VCVC Member Wookee's Avatar
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    Cool

    As with any "Driver" Van.We address the needed changes as we get time to perform them.
    I still have soap stone lines drawn on my 2nd Gen's floor. I want to add and upper tunnel extension to the floor in front of the dog house.
    Unfortunately this project has fallen a ways down on the "Beast"'s round to it list..
    Its a "van thing". A life style you have to live to understand!!!!

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