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Thread: Van running hot?

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    VCVC Member TurboVan's Avatar
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    Van running hot?

    Both of mine are.
    Because my rads are missing a lot of fins and are too small for the job, the vans run at 100 degrees over ambient (180 when it's 80 outside, 200 when it's 100 out, etc).
    This is on level ground, under 60 MPH. Sustained hi speed and towing makes them run even hotter!
    I just wanted to point out a potential extra source of overheating on second gen vans: the heater.
    Unlike on first gens, the heater hose has no valve to shut off the flow of hot water, a cable-operated air door just closes off the heater core.
    If your heater hose connection going to the core does not have a restricted opening (I recommend 3/8 inch), you will be recirculating uncooled water right back into the engine, because the heater core has no air flowing thru it, it just 'hotboxes' in that closed compartment. With or without the proper restrictor, some of that heat can leak out past the air door and make the van hot inside, so I installed a shutoff valve in my heater hose (just like first gens have) to prevent 'hotboxing' the heater.
    Last edited by TurboVan; 07-26-2019 at 10:41 AM.
    Keep one foot in the gutter, one fist in the gold...

    '65 Panel, with turbocharged 327 (originally 153 four), TH400 (originally 3-speed), and 3.31 '67 Camaro 12 bolt rear (my first car, 1970)
    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...meE_Jf-hgJU2mG

    '69 Sportvan 108 with turbocharged original 250 six and 700R4 (originally Powerglide), 3.73 rear, starred in eight Taco Bell commercials
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDfPJ3xmwjY


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    VCVC Member kookykrispy's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Good idea!!



    64' wikivan 230/4 onda tree/2.56 posi
    '64 Red Baron no engine/trans
    '66 "Lucky" 230/3 onda tree/project

    Quote Originally Posted by Vanner68 View Post
    Remember, they're still printing money, but they aren't making any more earlies!

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    On the FreakyVan long road test recently, when I shut off that heater valve, it ran 10 degrees hotter. We are in process of upgrading the cooling system to a 3 row, high efficiency radiator. We''ll see how that does.
    108VanGuy...
    1969 Chevy Panel, 250 CID, 3 ring 4 Spd. with OD, 2.73 "WedgieVan" Daily Driver
    1967 Chevy Panel, 230 CID, 3 Spd. 3.36 "UtiliVan Owned since 76
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    1969 Chevy 108 Display 307 CID THM 350 Power Brakes 3.73 Posi
    1965 Chevy Panel, V8, 3 Spd. "Gold Hills Van"
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    Was worried about my(600HP) 427 running hot, I'm running a 3 row Champion radiator, a 55Gph Electric water pump (No Mechanical fan) a 3,000cfm electric fan with heater core eliminated and belly pan not installed, drove van 60 miles at 65-70mph and then got in 15-20 minutes of stop and go driving, van never got above 190 degrees !(I actually shut the electric fan off when running at freeway speeds) Will be installing belly pan soon. I've also been experimenting with electric heat, using (2)800 Watt heating elements installed where the original heater core was, using factory fan, wiring it with a 3 position switch so I can run 1 or both elements, will see how this works when the weather cools down, don't plan on driving the van in Ohio winter, so should work!

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    I bought an electric valve for mine several years ago but it still sits on my desk way down on the to do list. while I wouldn't want added heat in the summer, the core is a tiny radiator. even with air flow blocked, it still cools slightly before returning to the engine. the returning water will eventually go threw the rad and get cooled so even if heater core didn't help at all, it didn't hurt. more than once had a vehicle running hot and turned on the heater to help cool, not practical for everyday but has gotten me home. all that is a mute point as heat in the cab would out weight any slight gain the core adds.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    VCVC Member joyrde's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrinaman View Post
    I bought an electric valve for mine several years ago but it still sits on my desk way down on the to do list. while I wouldn't want added heat in the summer, the core is a tiny radiator. even with air flow blocked, it still cools slightly before returning to the engine. the returning water will eventually go threw the rad and get cooled so even if heater core didn't help at all, it didn't hurt. more than once had a vehicle running hot and turned on the heater to help cool, not practical for everyday but has gotten me home. all that is a mute point as heat in the cab would out weight any slight gain the core adds.
    Agree 100% - - - - the heater core is a mini radiator - - - it will help cool whether there is air flow through it or not - - - engine overheating, especially in our Vans, is all about air flow 'through" the radiator - - - the biggest culprits are lack of a bellypan (I dropped the front of mine), lack of a fan shroud, hoses collapsing, wrong thermostat (size of hole when opened) - - [I have used a flow restrictor for 30 years] and of course the size and condition of the radiator.

    I am also running a 7 blade clutch fan, and a 16" electric pusher fan (for low speed when the A.C on)

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    VCVC Member kookykrispy's Avatar
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    On my '67, it has basically the stock v8 crossflow radiator. Belly pan installed with a homemade scoop. This usually works fine until you push the van hard on the freeway or up hills is 100+ temps, then the temp gauge starts to climb. There is an auxiliary fan installed in the "scoop" of the belly pan that pushes air up to the radiator. If temps get hot, I flip a switch and turn this fan on. It helps to cool it down alot.



    64' wikivan 230/4 onda tree/2.56 posi
    '64 Red Baron no engine/trans
    '66 "Lucky" 230/3 onda tree/project

    Quote Originally Posted by Vanner68 View Post
    Remember, they're still printing money, but they aren't making any more earlies!

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    Certifiable Vanatic Leroy Jackson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TK View Post
    Was worried about my(600HP) 427 running hot, I'm running a 3 row Champion radiator, a 55Gph Electric water pump (No Mechanical fan) a 3,000cfm electric fan with heater core eliminated and belly pan not installed, drove van 60 miles at 65-70mph and then got in 15-20 minutes of stop and go driving, van never got above 190 degrees !(I actually shut the electric fan off when running at freeway speeds) Will be installing belly pan soon. I've also been experimenting with electric heat, using (2)800 Watt heating elements installed where the original heater core was, using factory fan, wiring it with a 3 position switch so I can run 1 or both elements, will see how this works when the weather cools down, don't plan on driving the van in Ohio winter, so should work!

    600hp?

    Damnit... I thought I had the highest horsepowered gen 2 van on the street.

    Now I have a new goal....i was planning on adding some nitrous anyway..that or a bigger blower.
    The Raped Ape
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leroy Jackson View Post
    600hp?

    Damnit... I thought I had the highest horsepowered gen 2 van on the street.

    Now I have a new goal....i was planning on adding some nitrous anyway..that or a bigger blower.


    Leroy, Yes 600HP I also have a 2 Stage 500HP kit I've made provisions for, but the van is so insanely fast as it is, will probably only be for show, I have 2 big 6AN purge lines exiting through the cowl vents.

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    VCVC Member kookykrispy's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Smokey burnouts

    Quote Originally Posted by TK View Post
    Leroy, Yes 600HP I also have a 2 Stage 500HP kit I've made provisions for, but the van is so insanely fast as it is, will probably only be for show, I have 2 big 6AN purge lines exiting through the cowl vents.
    We must demand smokey burn-out pics.



    64' wikivan 230/4 onda tree/2.56 posi
    '64 Red Baron no engine/trans
    '66 "Lucky" 230/3 onda tree/project

    Quote Originally Posted by Vanner68 View Post
    Remember, they're still printing money, but they aren't making any more earlies!

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    Quote Originally Posted by kookykrispy View Post
    We must demand smokey burn-out pics.
    Here's one ! Color sanding & buffing van now, then more Burnouts !
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 52920499_299690177384850_7022522062992310272_n.jpg  

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    VCVC Member TurboVan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joyrde View Post
    Agree 100% - - - - the heater core is a mini radiator - - - it will help cool whether there is air flow through it or not - - - engine overheating, especially in our Vans, is all about air flow 'through" the radiator - - - the biggest culprits are lack of a bellypan (I dropped the front of mine), lack of a fan shroud, hoses collapsing, wrong thermostat (size of hole when opened) - - [I have used a flow restrictor for 30 years] and of course the size and condition of the radiator.

    I am also running a 7 blade clutch fan, and a 16" electric pusher fan (for low speed when the A.C on)
    Flow restrictor is to keep the coolant from flowing too fast thru the rad?
    I don't see how the heater could do anything except store heat without air flowing thru it. But it would be easy to test:
    compare the temps of the heater inlet and outlet pipes/hoses with a temp gun.
    Keep one foot in the gutter, one fist in the gold...

    '65 Panel, with turbocharged 327 (originally 153 four), TH400 (originally 3-speed), and 3.31 '67 Camaro 12 bolt rear (my first car, 1970)
    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...meE_Jf-hgJU2mG

    '69 Sportvan 108 with turbocharged original 250 six and 700R4 (originally Powerglide), 3.73 rear, starred in eight Taco Bell commercials
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDfPJ3xmwjY


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    VCVC Member joyrde's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboVan View Post
    Flow restrictor is to keep the coolant from flowing too fast thru the rad?
    I don't see how the heater could do anything except store heat without air flowing thru it. But it would be easy to test:
    compare the temps of the heater inlet and outlet pipes/hoses with a temp gun.
    Heater - - - unless you have a flow shutoff valve coolant will flow through all the time - - - blower off, door closed - - - the heater core will still disapate heat. - - - coolant flow valve - - - closed no flow.

    Flow restrictor - - - to slow the coolant flow - - - yet allow flow on a cold start - - - why. For whatever reason, no matter the opening temp, or style of thermostat the engine would go past 220, before the thermostat would open. Once opened the coolant temp would drop back to within 10 degrees of the opening temp rating. The temp would then steadily climb to 210+ degrees.

    I installed a flow restrictor - - - now the engine runs between 170-190 over 20 mph - - - stop n go & city 210 - - - with the A/C on 220 - - - until I turn on the 16" pusher fan - - - engine runs about 200 degrees with A/C on - - around town

    http://www.angelfire.com/wv/joyrde/v...ondinstald.jpg

    http://www.angelfire.com/wv/joyrde/v...c/vanscoop.jpg


    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...SABEgJ-hfD_BwE
    Last edited by joyrde; 08-09-2019 at 04:50 PM.

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joyrde View Post
    Heater - - - unless you have a flow shutoff valve coolant will flow through all the time - - - blower off, door closed - - - the heater core will still disapate heat. - - - coolant flow valve - - - closed no flow.
    exactly. the purpose of the flow shut off is to prevent the core from heating the van. if it is heating the air in the van, it is taking heat out of the coolant. as little as that may be, it is cooler. as I said before, not practical to help cool (especially in august) but no way the heater core can make it run hotter.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    Van Addict VanVille's Avatar
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    Van running hot.

    I removed my thermostat in my 68 250 to help it run cooler. Do you think it will run cooler with the thermostat installed?
    As long as I am moving 20 mph or so, my temp is fine. But sitting in traffic in Fort Worth TX in 100 heat is when she starts toward that 210 mark.
    Tell me what you think.. thanks Mitch

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    Quote Originally Posted by VanVille View Post
    I removed my thermostat in my 68 250 to help it run cooler. Do you think it will run cooler with the thermostat installed?
    As long as I am moving 20 mph or so, my temp is fine. But sitting in traffic in Fort Worth TX in 100 heat is when she starts toward that 210 mark.
    Tell me what you think.. thanks Mitch

    im no expert, but I would be afraid that without the thermostat to cause some flow restriction, the flow rate through the radiator may be too high and not allow enough thermal transfer between the coolant and the air moving across the radiator. Also, make sure your water pump and fan clutch are in good operable condition. Are you certain that the radiator is functioning properly... no restriction, good fins, etc. Lots of stuff to check when it comes to cooling the engine especially when its tucked up underneath like it is on these vans. Good luck!

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    Lose the thermostat and it will run cooler.... It just will..... Anybody that says otherwise has simply never tried it and will repeat the same BS that somebody told them........
    Here's the deal!... Thermostat temp is a minimum temperature. Your vehicle will run 180 coolant temp MINIMUM with a 180 thermostat. If it runs over 200, your cooling system is undersized or needs maintenance or improvements.... Gut the thermostat and you will lose 50 degrees and overheating will never be a concern again!

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    VCVC Member garagedoordennis's Avatar
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    So i took your advice and pulled my thermostat out...was a 160...and took things for a ride today. For the most part i have a fairly good cooling set up but always looking for was to improve.i have a 1st gen running a 350/200r with a 2nd gen dog house and floor tunnel. I have a fairly large aluminum radiator for a impala fitted in there with a electric fan/shroud pulling air through it. Only issue i found was a few weeks ago while driving back from Madison and was doing 75-80 and watched yhe temp gauge climb to 200. Was better when i went back to 65...180 degrees. I have a belly pan on so im thinking air flow. So getting back to the drive today..it ran 180..with out a thermostat and it was 90+ today. I did not get to run it up at higher speed today..so more to come..also made a filler to block off air from coming up in front of radiator but all that seemed to do is make the lid warm so im pulling that back off
    Click image for larger version. 

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    1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
    1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
    1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

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    VCVC Member Space Truckin's Avatar
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    Talking Fixed...

    Try this...easier on the eyes...

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    If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space..JM2C...hehehe
    Steve

    1967 Chevy 90 "Space Truckin"
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    1973 Chevy 110 "Orange Bang" w emphasis on the BANG :-)
    383 Stroker 440hp/ 480tq, MSD 6AL/ HEI, FiTech, Hooker Full length Headers, BowTie 700R4, 3:73/ Eaton Truetrac, "Cruiseaire" Original

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    One thing you have to remember is that you get 4 degrees temperature rise for every pound of pressure on your radiator. A 16# cap will give 64 degrees rise. So 212 F + 64 will bring boiling point to 272 F. Scary, but
    I pushed my worn out radiator to 230 F for 45 min. on our van camps outing to 10,000 ft. and my engine survived. Thanks to Floyd, I have the Cougar radiator in Julius now and it is running cool now.

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    VCVC Member garagedoordennis's Avatar
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    So today I added a scoop to the bottom of my belly pan...driving on the freeway home I ran it up to 80mph and turned off the electric fan...
    stayed at 175 for 10 miles. As I got off and merged on the 2lane it still stayed there ...fan still off it seemed to stay cool as long as I was moving. I pulled over and waited for it to climb . .then switched on the electric fan and it came back down to 175
    1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
    1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
    1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

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    I ran my 66 with a 8 inch deep belly pan. I had a 350 V8 engine. I ran with no pressure on the cooling system. I had a radiator out of a Dodge Dart. That engine never overheated. It was warm as can be inside the vehicle in the winter.

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    VCVC Member garagedoordennis's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
    1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
    1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

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    The scoop is an excellent idea!..... Are you runnin 180-200 without a thermostat? Are you running a trans cooler and/or oil cooler? Those would help a lot...
    Remember that you'll need a thermostat for winter...

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    VCVC Member garagedoordennis's Avatar
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    no thermostat ..never goes above 190..really stays 160-175 area mostly. Trans cooler is external mounted to frame.
    1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
    1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
    1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

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    VCVC Member garagedoordennis's Avatar
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    This weekend i drove 2 1/2 hours north 75-80mph for over an hour fan off
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    The scoop really made the difference!
    1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
    1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
    1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

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    I ditch thermostats and never look back..... But I live in 110 degree heat 6 months of the year and it never freezes here.......You should keep workin your cooling system for improvements till you get it running sub-150 on hot days because you are going to want a 160 thermostat for the coming Wi winter, as 160 is a good minimum to run in the cold......You can improve cooling with trans coolers, oil coolers, and extra coolant coolers such as extra heater cores or even a small radiator under the van with a fan on it........
    That blockoff plate above the radiator should supply fresh air pipes to an enclosed air filter so that your engine isn't breathing hot air.....Also, creating outflow space, ducting, and/or fans around the back of the engine can help vacate hot trapped air, allowing more cool air in....

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    Here is a picture of the scoop/underpan setup I built for my 69....

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    I've done an axle flip and anticipate the front being vey low, so I "terraced" the belly pans to still have them low and scooping without dragging on the ground...

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