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Thread: Ignition Module question

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    VCVC Member lvjjj's Avatar
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    Ignition Module question

    Getting a new 383 Stroker installed in the '94 Suburban this week so uncovered the early to take its place (thanks to Ledzep found a full cover that fits perfectly). Over the past few weeks, had been using an electric polisher and Meguiers #49 oxidation remover to remove oxidation from our"new" 2005 Trail Cruiser travel trailer which was working great. So, cause the early has been really badly oxidized, thought I'd try it on it and it worked wonders. Then hit it with Meguiers Wax-Cleaner and it sort of shines with no oxidation. Paint is so shot it looks like its semi-gloss. So I'm not embarrased to drive it around anymore.

    The early fired up first time as usual when I moved it from the storage area to my driveway. yesterday was going to use it to drive over to see the grandkids and it would not start. First time ever!!!!! Had fuel no spark. For some reason I suspected the distributor (its an HEI out of a '75 Nova). Took off the cover and rotor and noticed that the ignition module looked a bit gunky. Took it out, unclipped the connectors, re-clipped the connectors and screwed it back in. That was it, started right up. Obviously the connections had corroded a bit. Now I'm thinking maybe I should replace the module since its been in that distributor for the last 44 years. That sound like a good idea?

    (I definitely need to clean the connections).
    LARRY OF THE PACIFIC NW
    1965, 292, TH350
    purchased Nov. 22, 1970

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    VCVC Member rarechev's Avatar
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    yes or just keep a spare in the glove box
    1970 108 panel, 350, 700R4, power tilt steering, power brakes, power windows 1969 90" panel, 454 LS5, turbo 400, 12 bolt posi

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    VCVC Charter Member Vanner68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rarechev View Post
    yes or just keep a spare in the glove box
    I would replace it, but keep the old one as a spare.

    When you replace it, it should come with some heat sink compound. Clean all the old 'white gunk' off and apply the new compound. Heat is the enemy of the module.
    Gregg Groff


    There's no place like 127.0.0.1

    1968 Chevy G20 108 panel Now with 454 power!

    1965 Chevy G10 panel- OHC Pontiac inline 6

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    I think its a great idea to keep a spare module with an HEI equipped van but I'd much rather have a used OE one from a boneyard than a new one that's made off shore. IMHO, you will have a much better chance that the used one does not fail.
    108VanGuy...
    1969 Chevy Panel, 250 CID, 3 Spd.with OD, 3.36 "WedgieVan" Daily Driver
    1967 Chevy Panel, 230 CID, 3 Spd. 3.36 "UtiliVan" 292 TFI coming. Owned since 76
    1964 GMC Panel, 194 CID, 3 Spd. "CrunchoVan"
    1965 GMC HandiBus Custom, 194 CID, 3 Spd. "MilkVan" Seized Engine
    1965 Chevy Panel 350 CID, 3 Spd. "RustoRoof" Runs but wiring bad
    1969 Chevy 108 Display 307 CID THM 350 Power Brakes 3.73 Posi
    1965 Chevy Panel, V8, 3 Spd. "Gold Hills Van" Best body of my 65s
    1965 CamperVan, V8, 3 Spd.

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    VCVC Member ctjeff's Avatar
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    There was a guy on ebay selling NOS GM Ig Modules. I bought a couple last year for spares.

    Here is the sellers name, he is in Ontario.


    goodpriceautoparts


    goodpriceautoparts
    Green Onions
    1964 G10
    250 L6 / 3 on the tree
    Connecticut

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