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Thread: electric fan temp control

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    VCVC Member garagedoordennis's Avatar
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    electric fan temp control

    On my radiator conversion Im wondering the best placement for the fan temp sensor? Im going to eleminate the motor fan and run this from my reserve battery as "constant on 12V" so that when short stops are made fan will run till cool down for better restarts. But thinking either top of thermostat or upper hose connection ? other thought is does this need to be grounded to work?...
    1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
    1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
    1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    I put mine in the upper water inlet, so grounded to the motor. select a thermostat lower than the sensor shut off temp or they will fight each other. a 180 thermostat will keep your temps at or above 180 while a 180 sensor wont shut off until temps drop below 165 so always on.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    VCVC Member joyrde's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garagedoordennis View Post
    On my radiator conversion Im wondering the best placement for the fan temp sensor? Im going to eleminate the motor fan and run this from my reserve battery as "constant on 12V" so that when short stops are made fan will run till cool down for better restarts. But thinking either top of thermostat or upper hose connection ? other thought is does this need to be grounded to work?...
    I have placed my sender in every conceivable location. All the ones you mention plus in the cylinder head (late model location). In the end, I put the sender in a thermostat spacer AND an On/OFF Switch. Why? that is the exit to the radiator, thus the hottest temperatures are read here.

    Why an on/off switch? Aside from running front & rear A/C, and a large external automatic transmission cooler, I use the switch to "get ahead" of high high heat situations - - around town driving, slow speed uphill, especially when towing. The hotter the engine gets, the harder it is to draw the heat out.

    I run a 180 thermostat, a dropped front factory bellypan (with wings), an 18" pusher fan, a 7-blade clutch fan on the engine. The radiator is a stock '67 Van radiator recored to 4-rows, factory V-8 shroud. The engine is also dropped 2", to allow for proper engine/trans (700R) leveling.

    Running the above combination for many years has worked well. The highest the engine temperature has reached running with the electric fan on is 210. Summer driving towing a 2500 trailer, pulling a grade, the engine has never gone over 210

    I like the idea of running a second battery. I have considered running a second battery - - - keeping the batteries electrically separated. I even have a stock battery tray to install to run dual batteries - - - just never pulled the trigger.

    I would not have the fan wired, in a single battery system, to run to cool the engine when you park. Unlike stock systems that have that feature, our Vans would run the battery down before the cooling system cooled enough to turn the fan off. I have turned my Van off at 210, walked away with no fan on. I have never lost coolant doing so.

    The key is that every part of cooling system is in top notch condition.

    Dropped Bellypan - http://www.angelfire.com/wv/joyrde/v...c/vanscoop.jpg

    This the Thermostat Spacer I use https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all30375?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkqL16-2j5QIVksJkCh3LLAwFEAQYAiABEgIkuvD_BwE

    Van Engine pics - -
    http://www.angelfire.com/wv/joyrde/v...vanengine.html
    Last edited by joyrde; 10-17-2019 at 02:31 PM.

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    VCVC Member garagedoordennis's Avatar
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    So how far apart in temperature range should the thermostat and fan temp sensor be?
    1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
    1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
    1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garagedoordennis View Post
    So how far apart in temperature range should the thermostat and fan temp sensor be?
    as little as posable. you want to look at the "OFF" temperature. I have 2 fans. one always on when engine running, the other comes on at 200, then off at 185. mine tends to run 185 so rarely ever comes on and doesn't take much to get it back down and fan off. I did find 190 and 180 with only 10 degree drop but thought the 165 stat might not be hot enough.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    VCVC Member garagedoordennis's Avatar
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    So my thinking is a lower thermostat my be 175 ? then a 180 fan switch so that while driving fan may not come on till in town or stopped ? Also Im guessing the temp switch is going to ground when activated?
    1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
    1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
    1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    all I could find was 165 or 180. the 180 fan switch will shut off at 170. once warm, fan will run all the time. not really a bad thing but ideal would be a thermostat where you want to run and a fan switch that shuts off just above that. most run better at 200 but so hard to cool down from there.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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    VCVC Member joyrde's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrinaman View Post
    as little as posable. you want to look at the "OFF" temperature. I have 2 fans. one always on when engine running, the other comes on at 200, then off at 185. mine tends to run 185 so rarely ever comes on and doesn't take much to get it back down and fan off. I did find 190 and 180 with only 10 degree drop but thought the 165 stat might not be hot enough.
    " . . . I have 2 fans. one always on when engine running . . " why always on. When you are running a steady speed over 35 mph (level ground not towing) a fan really is not needed. Factory clutch fans just free wheel at cruising speeds. Usually an operating electric fan an Cruise speed can actually block air flow

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    VCVC Member garagedoordennis's Avatar
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    Finished the new radiator installation this morning getting the new upper and lower hoses figured out. Wired up the fan to my on/off switch inside so i could take it for a test ride.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The radiator seems to work well. I drove it a bit at various speeds as fast as 70 and seems to stay cool without the fan on...but its only 60 today. In town it likes the fan on and it quickly will bring temperatures down so thats nice. So with this tested tomorrow i will install the temp sensor to let the fan work on it own.
    Last edited by garagedoordennis; 10-19-2019 at 07:54 PM.
    1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
    1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
    1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

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    VCVC Member jrinaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joyrde View Post
    " . . . I have 2 fans. one always on when engine running . . " why always on. When you are running a steady speed over 35 mph (level ground not towing) a fan really is not needed. Factory clutch fans just free wheel at cruising speeds. Usually an operating electric fan an Cruise speed can actually block air flow
    always on because temp probe and switch took to long to get here. wired to keyed power with intent to install later. pusher fan and left unshrouded for the reasons you stated.
    '64 chevy, 292 40 over, 206/526 cam, 2004r trans. 9.75:1, dual webbers, Langdon cast headers, 1.94 valves

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