Driveline vibration

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  • garagedoordennis
    VCVC Member
    • Jan 2013
    • 741

    Driveline vibration

    In a quest to make our vans the best they can be I'm always improving on things . My next task is to try and smooth out my driveline. It's nice till 60mph ...then it has a slight ossilating vibration. Stays there till 75 then seems gone again. Things I've noticed
    deceleration...still there
    Acceleration...still there
    Don't feel it in the steering wheel
    Tire balance seems spot on
    My drive line is a 350/200r4 with the engine lowered 2" with
    a block. Motor mounts are urathane
    1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
    1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
    1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )
  • panelmanrd
    VCVC Member
    • Oct 2009
    • 2022

    #2
    I would take a look at the pinion angle, needs to match angle of engine output shaft.
    54 chevy panel truck 355 tpi 700r4 325/9in
    64 chevy 90 5.7 tpi 700r4 336 8.2
    69 chevy panel van 5.7 tbi 700r4 336 8.2

    Comment

    • xjamesx
      VCVC Member
      • May 2005
      • 1184

      #3
      I second that. I have been chasing a slight driveline vibration since I swapped the full drivetrain last year. Adjusting the pinion angle helped a decent amount, but I think my last little bit of vibration comes from my driveshaft. I’ll get that out and balanced this winter.
      1966 Sportvan - 1963 VW Bug

      Comment

      • garagedoordennis
        VCVC Member
        • Jan 2013
        • 741

        #4
        is this corrected with shims then ?
        1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
        1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
        1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

        Comment

        • panelmanrd
          VCVC Member
          • Oct 2009
          • 2022

          #5
          when i lowered things, i used the trans mount to adjust the angle to match the rear axle
          54 chevy panel truck 355 tpi 700r4 325/9in
          64 chevy 90 5.7 tpi 700r4 336 8.2
          69 chevy panel van 5.7 tbi 700r4 336 8.2

          Comment

          • xjamesx
            VCVC Member
            • May 2005
            • 1184

            #6
            Originally posted by garagedoordennis View Post
            is this corrected with shims then ?
            yeah, I bought some shims from speedway motors or Jeggs, I think.
            1966 Sportvan - 1963 VW Bug

            Comment

            • BILLJ386
              New Guy
              • Aug 2020
              • 8

              #7
              I Don't want to sound like captain obvious but....

              Originally posted by garagedoordennis View Post
              In a quest to make our vans the best they can be I'm always improving on things . My next task is to try and smooth out my driveline. It's nice till 60mph ...then it has a slight ossilating vibration. Stays there till 75 then seems gone again. Things I've noticed
              deceleration...still there
              Acceleration...still there
              Don't feel it in the steering wheel
              Tire balance seems spot on
              My drive line is a 350/200r4 with the engine lowered 2" with
              a block. Motor mounts are urathane
              A couple things that have worked for me are..
              1) Does it have a grease fitting? if so fill it up. If not get one that does.
              it will make a difference.
              2) take the drive shaft loose and turn it 1/2 of a turn and put it back on.
              better, worse or no difference?
              3) If your wheel/tires are close to the same size swap front to back.
              Don't do more than one time and see if the frequency (vibration) changed.
              One last thing that I've seen done out of desperation that actually worked was to
              Find someone you trust with your life.
              Locate the biggest parking lot available.
              set the vehicle up on 4 jack stands to ride height. Maybe 2' off ground.
              Set the jack stands under the rear axle next to the springs and under the lower control arms up front.
              Start her up Put in drive and bring up to the vibrating frequency.
              Now raise the back up with a jack and/or lower with weights until the vibration either goes away. Gets worse. or it vibrates off the jack stands and launches....
              Good luck!

              Comment

              • Vanner68
                VCVC Charter Member
                • May 2000
                • 13554

                #8
                If you dropped the motor 2" and didn't drop the trans 2", the tailshaft angle and pinion angle no longer match. Either drop the trans mount 2" or adjust the rear pinion angle with shims.
                Gregg Groff


                There's no place like 127.0.0.1

                1968 Chevy G20 108 panel Now with 454 power!

                1965 Chevy G10 panel- OHC Pontiac inline 6

                Comment

                • garagedoordennis
                  VCVC Member
                  • Jan 2013
                  • 741

                  #9
                  thanks for the ideas... I have brought the trans down, just made a new crossmember for it at the speed shop last week. The one that Taz and I installed really did that anyway I was just trying to make a better one. Tires are not the same front to back so that wont work but thinking that through when I had the other set of wheels and tires on it was still there. The driveshaft has come to mind as I did have it remade ( by a very good shop ) so there is a possibility. Im going to look a bit closer at my angles using a inclinometer to really see where Im at. I also bought a new trans mount so as RD said gives me another area of adjustment
                  Last edited by garagedoordennis; 08-21-2020, 05:24 AM.
                  1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
                  1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
                  1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

                  Comment

                  • Leroy Jackson
                    Certifiable Vanatic
                    • Oct 2012
                    • 570

                    #10
                    Another solution would be to run a double cardan u-joint or a Cv style joint off the transmission end and set the pinion angle for zero on the axle end. Not the cheapest, but if your setup has funky angles, this will work quite well. If you ditch the slip yoke setup as well, it will be smoother overall through out it's entire range of motion.

                    I run this type of setup on all my off road rigs.
                    The Raped Ape
                    1970 G-20 Krylon black
                    Swing up cargo doors
                    Supercharged 383
                    4L80E transmission
                    Detroit trutrac rear limited slip

                    Comment

                    • garagedoordennis
                      VCVC Member
                      • Jan 2013
                      • 741

                      #11
                      I watch a video on you tube that showed the reason for the angle being the same. I bought a angle finder and my trans is (3degrees) and my pinion is (6degrees). I guess I alway thought from 4x4 days that you were trying to tip the axle toward the driveshaft but not in this case. I ordered some shims for the trans and a shim kit for the rear axle. Will try this out tomorrow and let you know how I come out
                      1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
                      1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
                      1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

                      Comment

                      • garagedoordennis
                        VCVC Member
                        • Jan 2013
                        • 741

                        #12
                        So i added three shims under the trans mount...this was a simple thing to do..I also did pull the drive shaft and rotate it 180. Test drove and was better...so i believe the goal is to achieve the smallest degree? So maybe i should put in the axle shims and pull out the trans mount ones?
                        1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
                        1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
                        1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

                        Comment

                        • Vanner68
                          VCVC Charter Member
                          • May 2000
                          • 13554

                          #13
                          Originally posted by garagedoordennis View Post
                          So i added three shims under the trans mount...this was a simple thing to do..I also did pull the drive shaft and rotate it 180. Test drove and was better...so i believe the goal is to achieve the smallest degree? So maybe i should put in the axle shims and pull out the trans mount ones?
                          As long as the trans and pinion angles match, you'll be good
                          Gregg Groff


                          There's no place like 127.0.0.1

                          1968 Chevy G20 108 panel Now with 454 power!

                          1965 Chevy G10 panel- OHC Pontiac inline 6

                          Comment

                          • CREWCHIEF
                            Van Addict
                            • Mar 2011
                            • 54

                            #14
                            Be sure that the pinion is nosed down and the crankshaft is sloped down from rear to front, or you will get a jump rope effect! Measure from the ground to the trans. tail shaft, and from the ground to the front of the crankshaft, the trans. should be higher.
                            Last edited by CREWCHIEF; 08-30-2020, 09:02 PM.

                            Comment

                            • garagedoordennis
                              VCVC Member
                              • Jan 2013
                              • 741

                              #15
                              Originally posted by CREWCHIEF View Post
                              Be sure that the pinion is nosed down and the crankshaft is sloped down from rear to front, or you will get a jump rope effect! Measure from the ground to the trans. tail shaft, and from the ground to the front of the crankshaft, the trans. should be higher.
                              My pinion is down 6 degrees.....and if im understanding you my center of my tail shaft is 14 1/4" from the floor and center of my crank from the floor is 17". The tail shaft though is 3 degees out the trans
                              1968 Chevy 90 250/700r/Fuel Injected - sold and missed
                              1966 Chevy handyvan 350/auto (work in progress)
                              1965 GMC 350/auto ( just had to have )

                              Comment

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