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Thread: Just Joined this weekend, have tons of questions for my 1970 G10 A108

  1. #1
    New Guy
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    Just Joined this weekend, have tons of questions for my 1970 G10 A108

    Researching info is challenging. My van history is kinda sketchy. Bought it for my mobile auto detailing business, want it to appear as unmodified as possible BUT...

    I found the car on Barn Finds in Dec 2018. It came with a binder containing the history as told my the previous owner who bought it in 1984, prepared for the Barn Finds listing. Originally equipped with a 250CID six, but that had been replaced with a 283 V8 from a '67 Chevy II, overhauled in '86. Retained was the orig TH350 trans. In '87 a new 4-core radiator replaced the orig 2-core, electric fan replaced the engine driven one.

    Putting a 65 Gallon water tank in it brought the differential to a grinding halt. The shop had no clue about it, and identified it as one used in a '70 full-size Chevy. Rebuilt the transmission in Jan 2020. Replaced the 283 with a 350 in Jan 2021. The current radiator seems to be working at 60%, I've never experienced one with the separate tank above the core. I'd like to replace that with a nice Cold Case aluminum radiator to help protect the 350 investment. Had a centerlink made and installed in Feb 2021. 4 wheel non-power drum brakes (panic stops on Los Angeles freeways is better than and defibrillator, lemme tell ya). Non power steering. Parallel parking and U-turns are the best cardio workout I've ever done.

    I called Cold Case. They have no specs for these vans. Plenty for Chevy and GMC trucks, and the part number I found on the website from a number they gave me does not seem like it would fit. Also, the belly pan (I've tried looking up part numbers or illustrations online, no luck) is long gone. I thought I could fashion one out of sheet metal and design a pattern that would have side panels bent up to help get that air where it needs to go. I mean, I see 8 bolt holes; 4 in the front and 4 on the bottom of the radiator support; it would attach to them. I don't suppose anyone has any NOS parts lying around? LOL

    I love vintage cars (GM is my corp of choice), can make them look amazing on the outside and really freshen up interiors that are not too far disintegrated or worn, but I am a total klutz with anything mechanical. Doing stuff myself is a challenge (but I did remove and disassemble a 429 from my '64 CdV, I only assisted on the overhaul because my buddy knows me and my skill level). So what can I do to make the steering on the van less of a workout? Power assist or rack and pinion, yada yada? And brakes? I go through so much window cleaner after having to clean off the mess made from all my internal organs that fly out of my mouth and splash up on the windshield every time someone cuts me off and "parks" in front of me in my lane.

    There is a START. If anyone can suggest the best way (or incantations or spells or where to find a damn magic wand) to research/identify/LOCATE parts for this vehicle, feel free to chime in. All constructive comments are welcome. Oh, one thing I forgot to say is I fell in love as soon as I saw the old girl, and because main-line addicted when I got behind the wheel.

    Thanks for any help, stories, recommendations...
    Berck

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    New Guy
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    I did not mention DOORS, LATCHES, and keeping it secure

    My driver door, as I have discovered, is rusted out right at the bottom hinge. It's been cobbled together with metal, but that all got messed up when a huge gust of wind in WhiteWater (near the Palm Springs, CA, wind turbine fields) yanked it right out of my hand and swung it around to the front, messing with the metal patches, and opening a hole in the door skin at the hinge, that looks like an open can of sardines. Although I was finally successful in getting the bottom latch out of the right side rear door so it can engage with the latch hole (I've been called worse, lol). So I can drive (and panic stop) on LA freeways feeling confident the doors won't open on the freeway and my detailing supplies emptying out onto the road, that has happened more than once. I would love it if EVERY latch worked, didn't fall down into the doors. That's not a huge request, is it?

    UPDATE: I got the bottom latch to extend through the hole and am VERY careful when opening it to keep it engaged. I think I found the best way to feed it through if it does go too far and gets stuck up in there. I lose lots of arm skin, but it's a small price to pay, lol Got the driver door welded at the hinge. It was in really good shape even with the rust, now it's practically like new!
    Last edited by Bercks Detail-A-Go-Go; 09-01-2021 at 11:55 AM. Reason: Update since first posted

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    VCVC Member van-itti's Avatar
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    Welcome!

    Parts are mainly 64-72 GM Truck underneath.
    Depends on what youre needing.

    Sheetmetal panels are available, and now and then stuff will show up on Craigs or Epay.
    Again depends on what you want...
    Last edited by van-itti; 05-24-2021 at 09:37 PM.
    Mike

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    VCVC Charter Member Vanner68's Avatar
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    GM vehicle information kit

    Here's the original data for the van from GM. 1968-70 are identical

    https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...olet-G-Van.pdf
    Gregg Groff


    There's no place like 127.0.0.1

    1968 Chevy G20 108 panel Now with 454 power!

    1965 Chevy G10 panel- OHC Pontiac inline 6

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    VCVC Member lvjjj's Avatar
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    A-Go-Go, Reefing on the steering wheel (thus the big diameter wheel) is just part of the joy of owning an early. The tight turning radius is a bonus so you can turn around on a two lane road without going onto the shoulders. Make sure your tires are about 5 lbs over the minimum pressure shown on the tire, low tire pressure prevents quick turns and makes parallel parking impossible although you can pull in frontwards in the 14' long 65 G-10. Aced out a lot of normies into parking spaces. Before I replaced the 3 on the tree with a TH 350, I was also rewarded every time the shift levers got out of sequence and I got to climb out in a busy intersection to get under to move the levers back to neutral. When I park in a busy parking lot, I get to go around the van to lock all of the doors separately, allows me to inspect for parking lot pre-damage. There is no ridiculous clicker that takes care of all doors at once, what fun is that? My door locks never open or close when I start or shut off. My headlites don't stay on after I shut down, air conditioning works great when opening the little vent door above the pedals.

    I have never had any trouble stopping the van, I have a strong right leg. When I'm towing our travel trailer I just use the trailer brakes, the trailer is a lot heavier than the early. So, new guy, enjoy the quirks of the best and most versitile vehicle on earth, certain things are just supposed to be. I wouldn't have it any other way, whenever I'm driving it, can't get the smile off of my face, which is right next to the windshield for a panoramic view of the world.
    LARRY OF THE PACIFIC NW
    1965, 292, TH350
    purchased Nov. 22, 1970

  6. #6
    New Guy
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    There is a BeCool aluminum radiator that fits the opening nearly perfectly you can get from Summit Racing. The model number is BCI-35100. This is made for an LS swap, so you would have to plug the steam vent port. The upper and lower radiator hoses are also on the same side of the radiator. I would have to look at my original radiator to verify, but it seems to me that they were on opposite sides factory as most 60s and 70s vehicles were. I use a 16" electric fan as a pusher since the LS sits sits farther forward in the engine compartment than the 230 did and it doesn't fit between the core and the water pump.

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    Van Addict
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    Howdy Friend !!

    Welcome to the BEST source for info and fellowship on our vans. Enjoy the ride.

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    New Guy
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    Thanks for this, Gregg!

    Quote Originally Posted by Vanner68 View Post
    Here's the original data for the van from GM. 1968-70 are identical

    https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...olet-G-Van.pdf
    It's been a while since I checked the page, and this info kit is going to come in VERY handy! A lot has happened since I first posted, gotta check through my original post and see what issues I've already addressed. Thanks again!

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    New Guy
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    I had my radiator recored

    Quote Originally Posted by Crushin69 View Post
    There is a BeCool aluminum radiator that fits the opening nearly perfectly you can get from Summit Racing. The model number is BCI-35100. This is made for an LS swap, so you would have to plug the steam vent port. The upper and lower radiator hoses are also on the same side of the radiator. I would have to look at my original radiator to verify, but it seems to me that they were on opposite sides factory as most 60s and 70s vehicles were. I use a 16" electric fan as a pusher since the LS sits sits farther forward in the engine compartment than the 230 did and it doesn't fit between the core and the water pump.
    I found a place in Northridge, CA that did an excellent job on my radiator. It was about 60% clogged. I also found a belly pan which keeps the running temp on the freeways 10? cooler on average.

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    VCVC Member m1dadio's Avatar
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    Welcome to VCVC.
    You will find the vanning community to be your life line for parts and mechanical assistance as these vans are not supported by very many parts suppliers.
    One point to be aware of; many parts are available new and aftermarket because the same item is used on other vehicles, however most suppliers have given up listing the vans in their catalogs due to low demand over the years.. The challenge is knowing what other vehicles and how to source the item, That is where this community will be your best resource. As you already experienced with the Rad search, I would be willing to bet the "cold case people have a rad that will fit your van but they dont know how to identify which one. As with most part suppliers I have found I have to research the item and bring them the part number I want.
    If you do a search, using the top right search option on this site you will find much on Brakes and steering assist. Unfortunately at this time all the pictures are temporarily unavailable.

    welcome
    M1D
    Don't ask me!! I'm still stuck on "who am I?" and "What do I want?"

    1965 G10 all window "ChevyVan" with 1988 305 Tuned port injection V8, 700R4, 1980 10 bolt posi.
    1968 G10 "sportVan Custom" under construction.

  11. #11
    VCVC Member 66BeachCruiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bercks Detail-A-Go-Go View Post
    I found a place in Northridge, CA that did an excellent job on my radiator. It was about 60% clogged. I also found a belly pan which keeps the running temp on the freeways 10? cooler on average.
    I was in the Northridge area for more than 20 years. This is probably the same radiator shop I take my radiators to. Very good work on old school radiators. On Parthenia and Reseda area. I still work in Reseda but commute home to Thousand Oaks. Doing some messing around in my engine compartment currently but once I?m up and running maybe we can find a car show or something and meet up.
    -66BeachCruiser
    -Jose
    1966 Chevy Sportvan seafoam green/white
    Sliding ragtop
    230 straight six
    HEI distributor
    12SI alternator
    2bbl 32/36 Progressive carb upgrade with 1 to 2bbl carb adapter
    200r4 w/stock auto shifter, custom hanger, 96 suburban trans cooler
    3:36 rear
    Front Disk Brake conversion with Dual master
    Recored radiator to 3core
    5 blade fan
    belly pan.

  12. #12
    Certifiable Vanatic
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    Welcome to the vintage vanning world. Your first project should be to get the hell out of LA! ha ha.

    You have the G10 and not the G20? Then you should be able to do the M1Dadio disc brake upgrade. Dont let the job scare you, I did it, and Im non mechanical as well. Plus Michel is great with helping you out remotely and if you have a mechanic buddy?

    I had a 108 with a 307 and stock radiator and had no cooling issues, maybe you can find someone to re-core it. When I did an engine swap I had the rad out and just ran the garden hose through it for a bit, all kinds of brown crap came out. Worked fine after that. You could do that in place by just removing all the hoses.

  13. #13
    New Guy
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    Quote Originally Posted by 66BeachCruiser View Post
    I was in the Northridge area for more than 20 years. This is probably the same radiator shop I take my radiators to. Very good work on old school radiators. On Parthenia and Reseda area. I still work in Reseda but commute home to Thousand Oaks. Doing some messing around in my engine compartment currently but once I?m up and running maybe we can find a car show or something and meet up.
    -66BeachCruiser
    -Jose

    Radiator Works. That's absolutely them. Did an awesome job! In fact, I just brought the heater core up to them and they tested it and gave it a clean bill of health, no charge! I totally recommend them.

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