2nd gen 4x4 steering issue

[Skullhead]

I need a better draglink solution. After putting new 3"+/- lift custom springs, my steering wheel is turned, do to higher draglink angle to D44 steering arm. This also makes the steering wheel very 'active', and it turns with axle droop on road.
I just added the taller Chevy steering arm, which I thought would put the draglink more parallel, and solve issue. Apparently not, it seemed to compound the issue, as it seems the new arm is longer, creating similar issue, despite the correction in draglink angle.
Anyway, I'm looking to lengthen the draglink with a heavy wall tube, threaded on both ends LH/RH, basically same as ones on K5 Blazers....but much longer.
Has anyone successfully made one, or bought the parts from an online 4x4 fab shop? I really only need to know what size/part# for the pitman arm end tie rod is.

Thanks much for any input.

[m1dadio]

Yes when you raise the suspection hight the drag link will need to be extended to bring the steering box back to the center position (which is important). A couple years back we had sourced the two tierod ends and a sleave to make up an adjustable drag link. I dont have the information in front of me and I am heading to work so I will try to find and post it later. In the mean time If you use the search option on this site you may find the chat about it.
The darg link being close parrallel is a good thing, it dosnt have to be perfect. However the "Bump Steer" you are expiriencing is a nature of the beast thing.
Bump steer is reduced in my van due to a powersteerign set up I created that hydraulicaly tends to oppose and make correction for the feed back introduced into the drag link from the wheels. I can explain if you request.
I aslso put stiffer springs and stiff shocks in the front to reduce suspension plunging but of course that makes for a rougher ride. But I can see you spring and shock set up is allready what you created and need to work with.

m1D

[m1dadio]

This was one idea used to extend, shorten or repare a drag link using a 71 Chevy G30 inner tie rod end (ES409L) which is the left hand thread , and the sleave (ES2004S) . Cuting to length needed the original drag link and tapping the right hand 11/16 -18 thread onto it to accept the sleve .
There was another post that had two new tie rod enda and a few different lengths of sleves but I can't find that post at this time.

M1D

[Not a Vette]

The drag link on my 4WD G20

[MDVANMAN]

Hi Skullhead,

Really like your van! Mine's a 4x4 too and almost the same color (but way uglier haha). Anyway - my axles are from a '87 chevy pickup. Actually the whole frame is. I used one of these to help with the steering drag link angle:

https://www.amazon.com/Superlift-3434-Steering-Block/dp/B001GC64M4

It raises the steering arm to level things out. Might help!

[AzDon]

What you are experiencing is called "bump-steer" and is a result of changing the complex geometry of relationship between the suspension travel arc and the drag-link's trajectory and arc....Essentially, the steering arm on an axle mounted on leaf springs moves forward and back with suspension travel and the solid drag link applies that movement directly to the steering wheel and if you hold it tight while it bump-steers, it will turn side to side as it bounces......
It's a more or less impossible problem to fix after raising/or lowering one of these vans, with their antiquated 50s pickup truck side steering setup, although really smart people with CAD modeling capabilities may be able to figure something out......
I experienced these issues in the aftermath of doing a front axle flip on my108 and after a bit of research, decided that the only way I could delete the bump steer was to design and build a cross-steer setup.....
It's a fairly common setup for 4wd stuff and 90% of modern street-rods with straight axles have cross-steering setups....
For 4wd, the setup would be different than mine, but you may be able to get some ideas from my build threads....https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/...steer-solution

[AzDon]

This was one idea used to extend, shorten or repare a drag link using a 71 Chevy G30 inner tie rod end (ES409L) which is the left hand thread , and the sleave (ES2004S) . Cuting to length needed the original drag link and tapping the right hand 11/16 -18 thread onto it to accept the sleve .
There was another post that had two new tie rod enda and a few different lengths of sleves but I can't find that post at this time.

M1D

Here are the specifics of putting together a new adjustable drag-link from parts:

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t58772-tie-rod-and-drag-link-replacement